08-16-2013, 04:39 PM
#1
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I am considering ordering some knots and glueing to handles. Since I've never done this and don't want to screw it up, I'm trying to get a sense of the skill required to get a result that will look good and work properly. My DIY skills are average at best. Thanks

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 08-16-2013, 05:56 PM
#2
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It's really easy.


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 08-16-2013, 06:04 PM
#3
  • Agravic
  • Emeritus
  • Pennsylvania, USA
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Thanks for posting the video link, Lee.

It does look fairly easy ... I'll have to try it sometime! Smile

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 08-16-2013, 06:55 PM
#4
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It is fairly easy, probably the hardest part is making sure not to use too much epoxy or you will end up with it oozing into the knot.

BTW- Nice demo video Lee.

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 08-16-2013, 08:17 PM
#5
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Not very difficult, at all. i have done a few and you just have to be careful you don't use too much epoxy. Good luck.

i am not sure if this is appropriate or not, but here is a good pictorial from another site to complement Lee's video. Mods, if there is a problem with this, please, let me know, or delete the link.

http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/se...avy.18202/

Moderator note: links of an informative nature that are made to legitimate sites, are permitted.
Ravi.

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 08-16-2013, 08:27 PM
#6
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Just enough to coat the bottom is all you need. It shouldn't ride up any.

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 08-16-2013, 09:51 PM
#7
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Rough up the 2 surfaces. Mix some epoxy. Put a light coat on both surfaces. Allow them to sit and become tacky for a few minutes. Slap that sucker in.

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 08-17-2013, 12:25 PM
#8
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Is there some reasonable way to temporarily attach it for a test lathering and shave , in case I decide to adjust the loft?

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 08-17-2013, 01:28 PM
#9
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Some suggest silicone as a temporary bond.

Some suggest using SeaBond denture pads to create a temporary bond.

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 08-17-2013, 03:43 PM
#10
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Elmer's glue, double sided tape, electrical tape, just hold the knot by the plug, nothing (if the fit is tight enough it won't fall out when lathering)... None are really ideal, but those are things I've either tried myself or heard about.

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 08-17-2013, 05:58 PM
#11
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I've used hot glue for a temporary knot placement. It will hold for a few shaves and when you are ready just give a tug on the knot and it will come free.

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 08-18-2013, 06:13 AM
#12
  • pc4406
  • Vintage Shearer
  • San Francisco
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In the How to Tutorial of The Shave Nook University section, there is a great explanation of how to set a knot and determine how much epoxy to use. It is on Page 2, under the Non-Steam Method.

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 08-18-2013, 10:43 AM
#13
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(08-17-2013, 03:43 PM)asharperrazor Wrote: Elmer's glue, double sided tape, electrical tape, just hold the knot by the plug, nothing (if the fit is tight enough it won't fall out when lathering)... None are really ideal, but those are things I've either tried myself or heard about.

* Almost any tape that will hold the knot snug in the handle will do. Duct tape works fairly well as does masking tape. Good luck.

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 08-20-2013, 01:13 PM
#14
  • matloffm
  • Senior Member
  • Culver City, CA
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I tried various adhesives and finally settled on slow setting waterproof epoxy. The slow setting time allows you to be careful and after it's cured it is impervious to water. As mentioned above, watch out that you do not use too much.

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 08-20-2013, 01:21 PM
#15
  • beartrap
  • Resident Цирюльник
  • Southern California
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(08-20-2013, 01:13 PM)matloffm Wrote: I tried various adhesives and finally settled on slow setting waterproof epoxy. The slow setting time allows you to be careful and after it's cured it is impervious to water. As mentioned above, watch out that you do not use too much.

Which brand did you get? I've decided to restore one and really want the slow setting one for the first time.

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 08-20-2013, 01:31 PM
#16
  • matloffm
  • Senior Member
  • Culver City, CA
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I got this at my local hardware store:

DeVCON 2 Ton Epoxy
2500 psi Strength
Waterproof

30 Mins. Handling Time
30 Mins. Set Time
8-12 Hrs. Cure Time

I am sure another brand with similar specs will do fine.

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 08-20-2013, 01:42 PM
#17
  • beartrap
  • Resident Цирюльник
  • Southern California
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Nah, I gotta go with 2 Ton Biggrin
I was actually looking at the same one. I'll try it, about time I get something done Blush

Another question for all your restore gurus, do you use a rotary file in your drill or special rotary tool?

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 08-20-2013, 03:23 PM
#18
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If you don't have a dremel or a drill, you can just use sandpaper. Honestly, it's probably easier than a drill. 60 grit is fine. No one's going to see the inside.

I have a dremel with a rotary extension attachment. I just use the 60 grit sanding drum to widen a hole.

Otherwise, it's a forstner bit and a pilot hole.

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 08-20-2013, 03:55 PM
#19
  • Grumpy
  • Senior Member
  • DisneyLand
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Why did I have to look at this post.

Now I am going to try to figure out which of my vintage brushes should be restored.

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 08-20-2013, 07:37 PM
#20
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(08-20-2013, 03:55 PM)Grumpy Wrote: Now I am going to try to figure out which of my vintage brushes should be restored.

I think the only correct answer is "all of them." Biggrin

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