08-21-2013, 08:20 AM
#1
  • tave
  • Mr whiskers
  • baltimore
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I would like to use the 3 pass system when wet shaving. With, across and against the grain. The problem occurs after the third pass. By the time I hit that one, my face really feels irritated. I use ample PS and also hot towel before I lather up. I know not everyone's face is created equal and there are no set rules about how many passes you should use,but maybe someone could enlighten me as to how I could incorporate the final pass without inflicting so much irritation. Maybe some kind of modification could be used.

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 08-21-2013, 08:31 AM
#2
  • beartrap
  • Resident Цирюльник
  • Southern California
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My rule is simple: if you already feel the burn after the second pass - STOP. It will not get better.
Next shave, step back and see what went wrong, how you got that irritation, try to fix it.
I strongly believe that most bad shaves are user error. Yes, you may occasionally get bad blade or bad soap, but if your face is burning, you did this to yourself.
I am only saying that because I was in the same shoes, I wanted to "prove" to my razor/blade/soap that I can beat them. Lesson learned...

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 08-21-2013, 08:39 AM
#3
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(08-21-2013, 08:31 AM)beartrap Wrote: My rule is simple: if you already feel the burn after the second pass - STOP. It will not get better.
Next shave, step back and see what went wrong, how you got that irritation, try to fix it.
I strongly believe that most bad shaves are user error. Yes, you may occasionally get bad blade or bad soap, but if your face is burning, you did this to yourself.
I am only saying that because I was in the same shoes, I wanted to "prove" to my razor/blade/soap that I can beat them. Lesson learned...

+1 Great advice, here. i might add to skip the hot towel and use cool/cold water instead and see what happens. i have had great results with cool/cold water shaving. Start with these small tips and eliminate the issues that are contributing to your irritation. You may also want to try some Unrefined Shea Butter to help with the irritation and burn. Great post-shave product. Good luck.Biggrin

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 08-21-2013, 08:57 AM
#4
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One way to try would be to do three passes WTG, XTG left to right, and XTG right to left, perhaps angling the XTG passes slightly upward as much as your skin tolerates. You might also want to experiment with blades. My skin does not do well with ATG passes with many modern blades, but does fine with high-quality vintage ones. You might consider trying Iridium Supers - they're sharp but very smooth, even ATG. And finally, a preshave oil, applied to rinsed skin just before lathering for the final ATG pass, might ease things.

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 08-21-2013, 09:08 AM
#5
  • Johnny
  • MODERATOR EMERITUS
  • Wausau, Wisconsin, USA
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All of the above are good suggestions.

It all depends on just how close you want your shave to be. You see the terms BBS and DFS used all the time on shaving forums but probably 95% are describing our DFS as BBS.

I do two passes, WTG and XTG with a little touch up if needed and I get a DFS that last all day long without any irritation at all.

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 08-21-2013, 10:55 AM
#6
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WTG, XTG and touch-ups gives me a DFS - I know it could be a BBS with a ATG, but down that path lies red skin, shavebumps and insanity...

...well, maybe not insanity; but the point is that a DFS is more than enough to make me a very satisfied guy, so why run the risk of irritating my skin? WMMV, as always Wink

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 08-21-2013, 11:03 AM
#7
  • Agravic
  • Super Moderator
  • Pennsylvania, USA
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(08-21-2013, 10:55 AM)WegianWarrior Wrote: WTG, XTG and touch-ups gives me a DFS - I know it could be a BBS with a ATG, but down that path lies red skin, shavebumps and insanity...

...well, maybe not insanity; but the point is that a DFS is more than enough to make me a very satisfied guy, so why run the risk of irritating my skin? WMMV, as always Wink

+1. Everything he said!

DFS achieved with 1 ATG pass followed by 1 or two XTG passes in either/both directions, is perfectly fine.

ATG is like 'dancing with the devil' for me ... the shave can/will be closer, but at what cost!

BBS is overrated in my opinion, and DFS is the best balance in terms of shaving results and skin wellness.

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 08-21-2013, 11:32 AM
#8
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personally i always do 3 passes no matter what.

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 08-21-2013, 11:33 AM
#9
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I perform 2 wtg passes followed up with a blade buffing touch up.

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 08-21-2013, 12:30 PM
#10
  • tave
  • Mr whiskers
  • baltimore
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Thank you for the suggestions. I just got back from seeing my dermatologist for my yearly visit. He says to keep your face clean and Don't exfoliate. He thinks that it interferes with the way the face cleanses itself. Another dermatologist might have another opinion.

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 08-21-2013, 12:31 PM
#11
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I, for one, learned the hard way that everybody's skin is different when I first started. Would always go for a 3 pass shave and, sure enough, would achieve a BBS shave but I'd inevitably end up with horrible razor burn and ingrowns.

As my technique improved (and I grew wiser), I realised that a 2 pass shave for me results in near BBS but without the razor burn and ingrowns. My routine nowadays consists of a north-south first pass followed by a south-north pass on the neck and a west-east pass on the face.

YMMV

Ash

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 08-21-2013, 12:33 PM
#12
  • Grumpy
  • Senior Member
  • DisneyLand
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I do four passes and then a touch up.

WTG, XTG, reverse-XTG, and ATG.

But, my Face does not get irritated and it does not matter what blade or razor I use (I am Lucky) ... sometimes I mess up and I shave off a layer of skin but, that is because of the blade angle.

What I did notice is that I have to do two WTG Passes under my chin because of the growth that is there.

If I were you I would do WTG, XTG, and a reverse-XTG.

I would also try to put some pre-shave oil on your face before doing your XTG and reverse-XTG passes and see if that helps.

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 08-21-2013, 07:34 PM
#13
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(08-21-2013, 09:08 AM)Johnny Wrote: All of the above are good suggestions.

It all depends on just how close you want your shave to be. You see the terms BBS and DFS used all the time on shaving forums but probably 95% are describing our DFS as BBS.

I do two passes, WTG and XTG with a little touch up if needed and I get a DFS that last all day long without any irritation at all.
Yes, Johnny, that's the way to do it. I straight razor shave and sometimes can get crazy trying to get super smooth in all directions and do 4 passes.

Barbers usually do one pass WTG and then touchups with water and never ATG. Some of my straight razor buddies do two passes, usually WTG, ATG. Maybe the barbers are right, do less passes and no ATG.

One barber said he wasn't going for "close". He was going for "smooth".

Like Celestino, I've been doing cold water shaves for a year, because when I started out wet shaving, my face was constantly on fire and had razor rash. The cold water soothed things right down.

Use Witch Hazel without alcohol and then a pre-shave like Proraso and maybe a balm.

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 08-21-2013, 07:47 PM
#14
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(08-21-2013, 12:33 PM)Grumpy Wrote: I do four passes and then a touch up.

WTG, XTG, reverse-XTG, and ATG.

But, my Face does not get irritated and it does not matter what blade or razor I use (I am Lucky) ... sometimes I mess up and I shave off a layer of skin but, that is because of the blade angle.

What I did notice is that I have to do two WTG Passes under my chin because of the growth that is there.

If I were you I would do WTG, XTG, and a reverse-XTG.

I would also try to put some pre-shave oil on your face before doing your XTG and reverse-XTG passes and see if that helps.
This what I do. When I just want DFS or have some irritation I do the first three passes. For BBS I do all four. The extra XTG makes the ATG much easier.

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 08-21-2013, 08:02 PM
#15
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If your gear and your routine are working properly than 3 passes will be over kill. I also agree that stopping sooner than lather will provide a more comfortable shave.

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 08-21-2013, 09:06 PM
#16
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I think gear and technique (face mapping, lather, blade, razor) lead to a BBS and not the # of passes.

A BBS is a by product of a shave with the above. I get one almost every day I shave, which is most days. But I never try to achieve it except by using what I know will give me one.

You might try an ultralather to help cushion the skin from the blade and use less pressure. Watch in the mirror. If you see skin being deformed under the razor it's too much pressure. The blade should be the lightest of caresses on the skin. It's counter intuitive, but less pressure on a bladed razor actually gives a better shave.

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 08-21-2013, 09:50 PM
#17
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(08-21-2013, 09:06 PM)ShadowsDad Wrote: I think gear and technique (face mapping, lather, blade, razor) lead to a BBS and not the # of passes.

A BBS is a by product of a shave with the above. I get one almost every day I shave, which is most days. But I never try to achieve it except by using what I know will give me one.

You might try an ultralather to help cushion the skin from the blade and use less pressure. Watch in the mirror. If you see skin being deformed under the razor it's too much pressure. The blade should be the lightest of caresses on the skin. It's counter intuitive, but less pressure on a bladed razor actually gives a better shave.

x2

Its tough to "Un-Learn" what the cartridges have taught you and when people say "No Pressure" it doesn't always sink in when you go to shave.

Just enough pressure to keep the blade on your skin. Any more and you risk damaging your skin. And when you get your routine figured out you may discover there are a few spots where you can bare down to speed things up but its different for each person.

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 08-21-2013, 11:52 PM
#18
  • Taff
  • Junior Member
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Obviously I'm very much still learning so probably best to ignore me! Ive found with my face that two wtg passes are sufficient tgat I could realistically shave every other day and still be better groomed than when I used cartridges. I don't though! I still shave everyday cos it's such a damned treat!

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 4

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 08-22-2013, 03:38 AM
#19
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(08-21-2013, 09:06 PM)ShadowsDad Wrote: ...use less pressure. Watch in the mirror. If you see skin being deformed under the razor it's too much pressure. The blade should be the lightest of caresses on the skin. It's counter intuitive, but less pressure on a bladed razor actually gives a better shave.

+∞

Less pressure is one of two fixes for a better shave - the other is more / better lather Wink

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 08-22-2013, 04:20 AM
#20
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What ever is comfortable. Usually no more then 3 passes is sufficient.

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