11-01-2013, 06:43 PM
#1
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I've had trouble with razor rash or razor bumps using DE or SE or straight razors. I've tried anti-bump products that helped for a while and used balms instead of alcohol-based splashes and less passes.

I've read that barbers say don't shave against the grain, but I love the BBS ATG feel. I finally decided to take the barbers' advice and not shave ATG.

For the last few weeks, I've been shaving with the grain and across the grain or diagonals with the grain. This week I even shaved with one lathering, doing a three or four in one pass by using water after the lather is gone. if needed. I can buff, use short or long strokes and now have no razor bumps, just from skipping the ATG pass.

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 11-01-2013, 07:21 PM
#2
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It's good to read other shavers advice but as you found 'he who serves himself, serves himself the best'.

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 11-01-2013, 07:23 PM
#3
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I had to find what worked for me is correct. The same with cold water shaving being best for me.

'The call is for nobility of thinking, nobility of doing. The call is for service, and, such is the wholesomeness of it, he who serves all, best serves himself".' Jack London

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 11-01-2013, 09:25 PM
#4
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I have never liked or enjoyed shaving ATG, I always go with a two pass WTG and XTG, this always gives me a great smooth finish, as the hair on the right side of my neck kind of grows across and not down, so going with an ATG stroke wouldn't work for me there anyway.

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 11-02-2013, 03:33 AM
#5
  • Obie
  • Senior Member
  • Glendale, Wisconsin
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Gentlemen,
I have a heavy beard and sensitive skin. That is not a good combination. Against the grain fries my skin, too. These days my shave is limited to three passes with the grain and across the grain. The hair on my neck grows in a maze and a perfect shave there is asking for disaster. A good shave is good enough for me.

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 11-02-2013, 06:41 AM
#6
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Do any of you gentlemen do all your passes like I've been doing lately with one lathering?

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 11-02-2013, 06:44 AM
#7
  • Obie
  • Senior Member
  • Glendale, Wisconsin
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No, I do three full passes and each pass with its own full lather. I love lathering too much to limit myself to one for the entire three-pass shave.

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 11-02-2013, 08:01 AM
#8
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I've been trying to master the one pass shave and now that's all I do. I've never been able to go ATG as I get horrible ingrown hairs if I do. It has taken me a few years and countless hones and straights to find the right combo, but now I have some nice straights and one Nakayama hone that I can use right after the Chosera 1K to finish and this combo gives me very nice shaves with one pass. I also saw a barber in a video who said never go ATG as well. It showed him shaving with a Muhle DE and he said a good shave was enough because you have to do it again the next day and that's the philosophy I take as well. I would rather have a very nice shave and get to do it again the next day vs. so close I get irritation and then have to take a few days off.

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 11-02-2013, 09:20 AM
#9
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Great to hear you are getting some great results!

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 11-05-2013, 08:45 AM
#10
  • geezer
  • Senior Member
  • Menomonie, Western WI
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ATG does not work at all well for me. I have a cow-lick at my Adam's apple and have every which way on my neck and cheeks. More than a two pass is disastrous.
And, Yes, the last pass is on very thin lather and my face is wetted by my other hand while it looks for stubble. That works the best for me to get close!
~Richard

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 11-05-2013, 01:57 PM
#11
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Yes, Richard that works.

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 11-05-2013, 06:46 PM
#12
  • MikekiM
  • Senior Member
  • Long Island, NY
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Like a few others, I can pull off a BBS without an ATG pass. Not possible with DE. Plus I get zero irritation with the straight. Win-Win in my book

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 11-24-2013, 05:49 PM
#13
  • Rod_Neep
  • Junior Member
  • Gloucestershire,U.K.
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I am in the same camp when I use a straight...

One pass WTG
One pass WTG at 45 degrees to the grain, but with a lot of stretching of the skin.

Against the grain... I find really difficult, especially just under the jaw line where my hair grows from chin to ear. I just can't get a (safe) comfortable angle of the razor at that ATG.

But with plenty of stretching I get a 95% acceptable shave with that 45 degree second pass. I am happy with that.

Rod

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 11-26-2013, 02:03 PM
#14
  • ben74
  • Administrator
  • Perth, Australia
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I happily shave ATG with a DE and Cobra, but not with a straight...

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 11-29-2013, 05:36 AM
#15
  • MikekiM
  • Senior Member
  • Long Island, NY
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(11-26-2013, 02:03 PM)ben74 Wrote: I happily shave ATG with a DE and Cobra, but not with a straight...

Same here..

The DE, most specifically the Weber, allows me to go ATG with wild abandon. But for the straight, I don't go against nor do I need to. First pass is WTG. Second is XTG with a straight stroke and third is the same but with a scything stroke. I do some crazy stretching for all of them.

There is only one spot on my jaw line that ends up with a little stubble because my body just can't get in the position to hit it right, but no big deal..

I lather before each pass. I do a final cleanup on my lower lip after I rinse clean, water only, with the blade laying flat against my skin..

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 11-29-2013, 06:40 AM
#16
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I do go ATG cleaning under the lower lip and the blade is flat against the skin as you do MikeiM.

I tried ATG with my Futur after WTG and XTG with my straight razor, but still think a DE or SE would eventually lead me back to a rash and bump problem going ATG.

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 11-30-2013, 04:59 AM
#17
  • MikekiM
  • Senior Member
  • Long Island, NY
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Seems my DE's and straights both do something the others can't. There's one spot on my chin that I can't clear with a straight, that I get to easily with the DE and another on my neck, the DE can't negotiate that the straight clears without problem.

Confused

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 12-13-2013, 01:23 AM
#18
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Sometimes ingrown hair is caused by your beard growing out of your skin at an angle and it ends up getting cut at an angle too.

This causes the tips of your hair to become sharp and they likely to grow back in.

Forget what everyone else is doing. Shave in the direction that reduces the number of issues you have. Its all about how "Your Hair" grows.

Use open comb or a straight. A safety bar will prevent the razor from "Lifting the hair".

Why mash the hair down with a safety bar when its growing out at an angle and laying next to your skin?

When deciding what direction to use, imagine how the hair will "exit your skin" and decide what angle will help it grow out.

A proper open comb or straight can cut against the grain without getting hair caught in the razor head and pulling it up. If ATG is what you need.

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 12-13-2013, 04:20 AM
#19
  • MikekiM
  • Senior Member
  • Long Island, NY
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I failed to include that I while I don't limit the lathering to one application, I do close my shave with a water only clean-up. And at this point, with the hairs as close as they are going to get, I can and do hit a few spots ATG with the blade laying absolutely flat against my skin.

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