11-25-2013, 06:08 PM
#1
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If I boiled a razor for 2 minutes than set it in a 12 ounce jar of barbicide with 2 caps of solution am I good?

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 11-25-2013, 06:24 PM
#2
  • ben74
  • Administrator
  • Perth, Australia
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Any particular razor and more specifically, what finish?

You must be careful to dilute Barbicide correctly and not for too long, especially on soft surfaces such as gold.

Take a look at this WARNING...

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 11-25-2013, 06:44 PM
#3
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Slim adjustable nickel. I did it over the weekend, wanted to check if it was sanitary.

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 11-25-2013, 06:49 PM
#4
  • ben74
  • Administrator
  • Perth, Australia
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I think you're...

[Image: uCu8Do5.png]

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 11-25-2013, 07:01 PM
#5
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Someone told me my solution was too weak so I was paranoid.

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 11-25-2013, 08:02 PM
#6
  • vuk
  • Senior Member
  • Virginia
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Follow the dilution directions on the Barbicide bottle, that's what it should be.
Also be careful boiling your razor.

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 11-25-2013, 08:43 PM
#7
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Personally, I would just give it a good scrub with a toothbrush and a mild soap and run it under hot tap water. Then, if you want, place it in the barbicide for 5-10 minutes.
Good luck.

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 11-25-2013, 08:48 PM
#8
  • Harvey
  • Senior Member
  • North Hills CA
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In reality the razor isn,t the problem...it is the Blade unless you are using a straight where the blade is the razor.

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 11-26-2013, 12:47 AM
#9
  • davizera
  • Non Dvcor Dvco
  • São Paulo - Brazil
User Info
I'm afraid of boiling razors, putting the directly to the water on the stove.
This is my routine:
- Scrub the razor with an old toothbrush and toothpaste
- Rinse
- Scrub the razor again with the old toothbrush soaked on Mr. Muscle, which informs that kills 99.9% of germs
- Rinse
- Place the razor on alcohol 70% for around 30min.
- Done!

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 11-27-2013, 12:16 AM
#10
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This is a subject that comes up very often and more often than not people are going way overboard with cleaning their razors. First off, there is no way of "sterilizing" a razor without running it through a cycle in an autoclave, period. "Sanitizing" is what we are doing at home when we want them clean. Here is how I do it...

Soak the razor in warm soapy water for 5-10 min. Then, use a soft bristled toothbrush with soapy warm water to gently clean the cracks and crevices of the razor. Finally, soak said razor in the properly diluted solution of fungicide such as Barbicide. Total soak time needn't be over 10 minutes. (There is no need to soak a razor for days on end). Finally, rinse the razor in fresh running water to rinse away the solution. There, you now have a clean, shiny and properly sanitized razor.

Remember, even if you purchase a used razor from another member from the BST, in the 3-4 days it takes to ship to you... HIV, most strains of Hepatitis, Herpes, etc are all dead. Common bacteria such as Staphylococcus are really all that are lurking on the razor. The hot water and soap alone rinse away a good portion of that bacteria which are normally harmless to a healthy person anyhow. Even MRSA (the scary resistant strain of Staphylococcus) is killed with a good cleaning and Barbicide soak. The fungicide ensures that most possible remaining pathogens are killed prior to your first shave with your new (used) razor.

I hope this helps some. There is no need to panic or be worried about picking up a disease as long as you follow a few basic steps.

Here is the low down on Barbicide:


Barbicide is known worldwide as the ultimate product for EPA registered, hospital grade disinfection in salons, barber shops and spas. The iconic blue liquid is trusted and effective earning its reputation for creating a safe and clean salon. Available in 2oz, pint, ½ gallon and gallon containers, Barbicide concentrate is economical for use in every salon, barbershop and spa!
Hospital-grade, EPA approved broad-spectrum disinfectant.
Proven effective against HIV-1, Hepatitis B, Hepatitis C, Staphylococcus (including MRSA), Pseudomonas, Salmonella, Clostridium Difficile (C.Diff), Vancomycin Resistant Enterococcus (VRE), Herpes, Influenza (including H1N1), “Athletes Foot” (TineaPedis)
Complies with OSHA’s blood borne pathogens standard
U.S. EPA-registered hospital-grade, broad-spectrum disinfectant
Safe for non-porous surfaces including tanning beds, metals, stainless steel, plastics, combs, brushes, rollers and shears
Concentrate—Simple to mix, without taking up precious shelf space!
Anti-rust formulation protects your expensive shears
Will not stain skin or surfaces
Barbicide has led the industry in disinfection since 1947!

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 11-27-2013, 11:15 AM
#11
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Um, yeah. You overkilled it.

I'm with Cessnabird, except I don't even use Barbicide. After the cleaning he describes, I wipe it down with 70% rubbing alcohol.

Good to go.


Full disclosure: I'm not only a medical doctor, I'm actually an infectious diseases subspecialist.

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 11-28-2013, 07:15 PM
#12
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Thanks for all the help. I'm super paranoid about germs but I love the look of vintage razors. I realized I did a couple of things wrong so I freaked out. I wiped down the razor with alcohol but I didn't let it air dry and someone said I didn't boil it long enough and my barbicide solution was too weak. However this forum and some further research has put me at ease, I did brush it with soapy water as well. Love these forums, big help to newcomers like me. The worst part was the razor I bought was damaged, I believe it was an honest mistake. I had one shave with the slim adjustable and it tore up my face because the guard/comb bar was bent, creating a huge gap. I had to throw it out. Oh well I'll find another one, the seller said when he gets another one he will send it my way, he did give me a super speed for free so life is good.

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 11-29-2013, 07:52 PM
#13
User Info
Sorry to hear about the bunk razor, but at least the seller made it good.

Education about pathogens really is the only way to get through your fears about germs. The unknown is what makes it so scary, just realize that your cleaning routine and barbicide soak are making sure you have a squeaky clean vintage razor. Happy shaves and welcome to TSN!

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 11-29-2013, 09:04 PM
#14
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I wonder... the autoclave...

Would a pressure cooker do the same job? Say 90 minutes at 15# (250°F) pressure?

Just wondering, I don't plan to do it.

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 02-21-2014, 07:12 PM
#15
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(11-29-2013, 09:04 PM)ShadowsDad Wrote: I wonder... the autoclave...

Would a pressure cooker do the same job? Say 90 minutes at 15# (250°F) pressure?

Just wondering, I don't plan to do it.

Yes, actually, it would. In about 60 minutes.

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 02-22-2014, 04:24 AM
#16
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ps: in the manual of this ultrasonic cleaner it tells not to clean electro-coated metal Huh

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[Image: CCaoLXC.jpg]

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 02-22-2014, 12:03 PM
#17
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(11-27-2013, 11:15 AM)kingfisher Wrote: Um, yeah. You overkilled it.

I'm with Cessnabird, except I don't even use Barbicide. After the cleaning he describes, I wipe it down with 70% rubbing alcohol.

Good to go.


Full disclosure: I'm not only a medical doctor, I'm actually an infectious diseases subspecialist.

This is good enough for me.

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 02-22-2014, 01:00 PM
#18
  • sm304
  • Member
  • Carnoustie, UK.
User Info
I occasionally use Milton baby bottle sterilising solution, if I remember and or can be bothered. I don't know what the US equivalent brand is to Milton but I'm sure it would be in the same aisle as all the other baby related items in the supermarket. Although my usual cleaning routine is a couple of cycles in a domestic ultrasonic bath.

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 02-22-2014, 01:52 PM
#19
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When my sisters and I were bottle feeders my mother had a baby bottle sterilizer that held about a dozen at a time. I think she placed it on the stove and brought the water to a boil. I don't remember if she used anything other than boiling water but something like that might still be available in the USA.

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 02-23-2014, 10:50 AM
#20
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An e.r. doctor wt b&b quoted an hour soak in 5% lysol as hospital grade sterilization.
I used to do that when i lived in the US.
Lysol is *nasty* so wear gloves and work outside.
But as a bonus it would also get tge green gunk off.
I've had gold plated gillettes in it for hours with no ill effect on the plating.

Here in Prague the nurses don't always wear gloves but they always use a spray called Cutasep, easier to obtain and more apartment building friendly

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