05-09-2014, 06:11 AM
#1
User Info
I am a die hard dedicated aftershave balm guy. Never splashed my face. I have used Nivea Sensitive, L'Occitane Cade, Unrefined Shea Butter, Eucerin, Razorock Wax and my favorite, Sabon Aftershave Balm.

I know some artisan soap makers also make balms. I was looking to be pointed in the right direction as I am pretty picky with what I like. I have been using Cade and Sabon for the past few years exclusively.

I like a thicker balm with heavy moisturizing qualities. In the Summer, I just use less but still like a balm that goes on thick.

Any balm guys have suggestions?

32 344
Reply
 05-09-2014, 06:14 AM
#2
User Info
Does it not get any thicker or more moisturizing than Unrefined Shea Butter?

31 8,058
Reply
 05-09-2014, 06:20 AM
#3
User Info
Not familiar with any of the balms you mentioned. I just picked up the Wet Shave Obsession balm. I would compare it to Musgo Real in terms of "thickness". Thicker than Institut Karite or I Coloniali. Great moisterizer IMHO.

6 358
Reply
 05-09-2014, 06:21 AM
#4
User Info
(05-09-2014, 06:14 AM)SharpSpine Wrote: Does it not get any thicker or more moisturizing than Unrefined Shea Butter?

Unrefined shea butter is like solid clay. I do like a creamy balm...the shea butter is almost too much and I can never really apply it properly.

32 344
Reply
 05-09-2014, 06:21 AM
#5
  • Lutebro
  • Senior Member
  • Olympia, WA
User Info
I love a good balm too but find a lot to be too thick. WSO's blashes are incredible. Go on smooth, don't dry out the skin and make it feel great all day long. The Zaro scent is amazing! Definitely worth a try.

58 1,312
Reply
 05-09-2014, 06:23 AM
#6
User Info
(05-09-2014, 06:20 AM)Aimless1 Wrote: Not familiar with any of the balms you mentioned. I just picked up the Wet Shave Obsession balm. I would compare it to Musgo Real in terms of "thickness". Thicker than Institut Karite or I Coloniali. Great moisterizer IMHO.

This is one I will look into. I have tried I Karite and liked, but did not love it.

32 344
Reply
 05-09-2014, 07:23 AM
#7
User Info
(05-09-2014, 06:21 AM)fbones24 Wrote:
(05-09-2014, 06:14 AM)SharpSpine Wrote: Does it not get any thicker or more moisturizing than Unrefined Shea Butter?

Unrefined shea butter is like solid clay. I do like a creamy balm...the shea butter is almost too much and I can never really apply it properly.

Celestino can help you solve that issue.

31 8,058
Reply
 05-09-2014, 07:38 AM
#8
  • v4257
  • Always chasing the perfect shave
  • Boston, USA
User Info
(05-09-2014, 06:21 AM)fbones24 Wrote: Unrefined shea butter is like solid clay. I do like a creamy balm...the shea butter is almost too much and I can never really apply it properly.

I agree that 100% shea is hard to apply - esp when it's cold. You can:
1. Warm it in your hands before applying, OR
2. Blend it with another oil that's liquid at room temp.

I blend SB with almond or grapeseed oil. To do this - heat the SB in the microwave or double boiler/bain-marie very slowly. Do not heat it directly on the stovetop - or it will burn.

Once the SB is softer or close to liquid - add the almond/grapeseed oil. How much depends on how liquid you want the final product to be. Around 25% grapeseed produces an easily applicable (but thick) balm. If you like - you may also add some EO (say lavender) to give the balm a pleasant scent.

17 535
Reply
 05-09-2014, 01:42 PM
#9
  • krissy
  • Active Member
  • Cando, North Dakota
User Info
As an artisan soapmaker myself I thought I would comment on your post.

I also offer two types of ASB, and I make each type up in small batches and they are made from scratch from individual ingredients. But the unscented is just a tad thicker just because as I make them up to be unscented and the small amount of fragrance oil or essential oil added to scent it does thin it out a tad. Just think of taking a bit of salad dressing and adding a small amount of water and it thins it out much the same way. Just to put a picture into words. But it's not to thin that you notice it a whole lot, it's just a tad thinner.

But my shea balm is also thicker than my regular balm because the regular balm uses all liquid oils and the shea balm uses only shea butter which is a thicker product.

The recipes of my two balms are exactly the same with the exception that the shea balm contains shea butter (organic and unrefined) where my regular balm contains three oils.

Liquids Used : Aloe Vera Juice, Goats Milk
Oils Used : Avocado Oil, Jojoba, Meadowfoam Seed Oil
Other Ingredients Used : Allantoin, BTMS, Dimethicone, Emulsifying Wax, Isopropyl Myristate, Liquid Germall Plus, Panthenol B5, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherols, Wheat Protein
Scent : Fragrance Oil OR Essential Oil Is Optional

I decided to make the shea balm because of the need for it. There are many gentlemen who like the properties that shea butter offers but find using straight shea butter to greasy for their face.

My balms contain a small portion of the recipe as oils. I write my recipes in terms of percent's so I know exactly what portion of the finished product contains any given ingredient. I found a happy medium that works well as a facial product.

The goats milk that I use is within a safe limit that the paraben free preservative can handle. I also use aloe vera juice as the remainder of the liquid. I don't need to go into the benefits that also has on the skin, I don't use water because I believe I can give more benefits with the aloe than water. BTW aloe vera juice is basically what aloe gel is without the added ingredient to turn it into a gel. Depending on the aloe used because some juices and gels do contain water.

Then I also add other great ingredients to take the product from basic to a luxurious product.

I also want to take a moment and comment on your preference for a thicker balm. The thickness often doesn't have anything to do with the oils used. I say often because liquid oils and solid oils can and do affect the thickness to some degree, depending on what percent is used of each.

But to make my point the thickness of a product has more to do with the emulsifiers and thickening agents such as stearic acid used in the recipe. Or rather how much is used of each. As an example I could make a body lotion with 25% liquid oils and make it a nice moderate body lotion. Not so thin that it pours easily, but not so thick that you need to scoop it out. Then I could take the same recipe with the same 25% of liquid oils and increase the emulsifiers and maybe add a little stearic acid and I now have a nice thick cream that needs to be scooped out of a jar. And both will feel pretty much the same on the skin after they are applied. So personal preferences can be adjusted in a made from scratch product when you know how.

7 405
Reply
 05-09-2014, 04:34 PM
#10
User Info
Krissy, that is really helpful information and makes sense. Perhaps I misused the word thick when describing my preferences. I think I like heavy moisturizing properties rather than actual thickness.

Your custom balms are intriguing. On my short list. Smile

32 344
Reply
 05-09-2014, 05:40 PM
#11
User Info
Krissy's balms sound like something you should try, then.

I still don't think shea butter is very difficult to emulsify; an almond-size portion between your palms with 10 seconds of rubbing will turn it into almost a cream; I doubt you will find anything heavier/thicker as a moisturizer with fantastic properties.

Best of luck! Smile

83 21,115
Reply
 05-09-2014, 05:45 PM
#12
User Info
(05-09-2014, 06:21 AM)Lutebro Wrote: I love a good balm too but find a lot to be too thick. WSO's blashes are incredible.Go on smooth, don't dry out the skin and make it feel great all day long. The Zaro scent is amazing! Definitely worth a try.

This

31 1,800
Reply
 05-09-2014, 05:54 PM
#13
User Info
I don't think it would be humanly possible to find a better aftershave balm than those made by Queen Charlotte Soaps. These are truly outstanding.

Saint Charles Shave balms are nice, too.

2 1,557
Reply
 05-09-2014, 06:02 PM
#14
  • krissy
  • Active Member
  • Cando, North Dakota
User Info
(05-09-2014, 04:34 PM)fbones24 Wrote: Krissy, that is really helpful information and makes sense. Perhaps I misused the word thick when describing my preferences. I think I like heavy moisturizing properties rather than actual thickness.

Your custom balms are intriguing. On my short list. Smile

Do you use these "heavier" balms in the summer time as well or just the winter time? I understand if you don't want to give your location, but could you perhaps give me an idea of what part of the world you live in and/or the climate there? You can PM me if you would rather not have that info on the board.

Perhaps I should consider a "winter" ASB that is heavier on the oils than my regular version. If you are in the US and want to try my two balms drop me a PM with your address and I'll pop some in the mail. You just might find them to your liking. While I know I can't please everyone, I do try to have a well rounded offering of products that is meeting the needs of my customers. And I know how to formulate many recipes to make so many things.

7 405
Reply
 05-09-2014, 06:06 PM
#15
  • v4257
  • Always chasing the perfect shave
  • Boston, USA
User Info
(05-09-2014, 05:40 PM)celestino Wrote: I still don't think shea butter is very difficult to emulsify; an almond-size portion between your palms with 10 seconds of rubbing will turn it into almost a cream; I doubt you will find anything heavier/thicker as a moisturizer with fantastic properties.

Celestino - I must thank you again for proselytizing the benefits of SB. It is my fav post-shave now. I thought the coming of the warmer weather would have me put it away - but once you try SB - you never go back....Biggrin

17 535
Reply
 05-09-2014, 06:07 PM
#16
User Info
(05-09-2014, 06:02 PM)krissy Wrote:
(05-09-2014, 04:34 PM)fbones24 Wrote: Krissy, that is really helpful information and makes sense. Perhaps I misused the word thick when describing my preferences. I think I like heavy moisturizing properties rather than actual thickness.

Your custom balms are intriguing. On my short list. Smile

Do you use these "heavier" balms in the summer time as well or just the winter time? I understand if you don't want to give your location, but could you perhaps give me an idea of what part of the world you live in and/or the climate there? You can PM me if you would rather not have that info on the board.

Perhaps I should consider a "winter" ASB that is heavier on the oils than my regular version. If you are in the US and want to try my two balms drop me a PM with your address and I'll pop some in the mail. You just might find them to your liking. While I know I can't please everyone, I do try to have a well rounded offering of products that is meeting the needs of my customers. And I know how to formulate many recipes to make so many things.

Yes, I use heavier balms all year round. I prefer balms to splashes and just use less product in the summer but still prefer the moisturizing properties.

That is a very generous offer on your part. I may take you up on it.

I am in the Northeast U.S. New York to be exact. Biggrin

32 344
Reply
 05-09-2014, 06:12 PM
#17
User Info
(05-09-2014, 06:06 PM)v4257 Wrote: Celestino - I must thank you again for proselytizing the benefits of SB. It is my fav post-shave now. I thought the coming of the warmer weather would have me put it away - but once you try SB - you never go back....Biggrin

* Vinny, it was my pleasure and I am glad you are enjoy it.

No going back..........I can just see Al Pacino saying this while applying some shea butter! Biggrin

83 21,115
Reply
 05-11-2014, 08:35 AM
#18
User Info
Soap Commander is pretty good and very reasonable. The old name of the company was simply7skincare. I found their balm to be very good. Not as thick as Cade but still good and it was only $5 bucks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

18 326
Reply
 05-25-2014, 04:56 PM
#19
User Info
(05-09-2014, 06:21 AM)Lutebro Wrote: I love a good balm too but find a lot to be too thick. WSO's blashes are incredible. Go on smooth, don't dry out the skin and make it feel great all day long. The Zaro scent is amazing! Definitely worth a try.

+1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

0 100
Reply
 05-25-2014, 05:01 PM
#20
User Info
NOT "artisan" but my highest recommendation goes to FLORIS Santal Aftershave Balm

19 775
Reply
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)