05-17-2014, 04:41 PM
#1
  • SRNewb
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  • No. Va, USA
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Stopped by the flea market today and picked this up. Cost me a whole dollar.
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Scale is broken, so I'll need to make new ones.
Plenty of rust on the edge, but I think it's a good candidate for a first restore.
Razor is 9/16.
Hallmark says "Genco Grant, Geneva NY, USA.

A shot of the hallmark after a bit of clean up.
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Went by hand from 220, 600, 800, 2000, steel wool and polishing compound.
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A bit of Tasmanian Blackwood.

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Cut them out with a coping saw, then used double stick tape to bond them together.

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I'll take them down to the line together with this.

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The finished product, sanded to final shape by hand, and finished to 600 grit.

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Pin hole is 3/32". I believe most are 1/8", so I will need to find 3/32" pin material. Anyone know where I can get it or what I can use for it?
Have either some Maple or Padauk for the wedge. Since I'm using wood, that will be glued, not pinned.
Thanks for looking!

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 05-17-2014, 05:00 PM
#2
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That's looking nice!

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 05-17-2014, 05:01 PM
#3
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You are gonna make that one work. I walk by these all day everyday but you have skills and time to make it a nice user quality straight!

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 05-17-2014, 05:11 PM
#4
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Thanks, guys. I'm hoping to do this a lot more, depending on what I can find. I really enjoy taking something that is black and ugly with rust and tarnish and turning it into something I can shave with.
Have to do it by hand, and I'm not trying to make them look brand new.
This one's gonna be fun to shave with. My Boker is 6/8. This one is a much narrower blade, so it'll be interesting to see how it compares.

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 05-17-2014, 07:09 PM
#5
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Looking good be sure post pics. when get it done.

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 05-17-2014, 07:12 PM
#6
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(05-17-2014, 07:09 PM)boxerman Wrote: Looking good be sure post pics. when get it done.
Boxerman, thanks. I sure will. Gotta locate some brass rod. Should be able to find it locally.

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 05-17-2014, 11:00 PM
#7
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Most pins are generally 1/16 on 99 percent of the razors out there. This , and other brass rods as well as washers can be readily found at most hobby shops that deal with R/C cars, trains etc.
If you can't find any let me know. I just got in an order of 1,200 washers and I think I can spare a few.

those Gencos are really nice razors by the way. With those scales are quite nice.
And those scales,well, I have quite a few in my collection that match them. Seems I have a penchant for that style.

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 05-18-2014, 03:55 AM
#8
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(05-17-2014, 11:00 PM)mycarver Wrote: Most pins are generally 1/16 on 99 percent of the razors out there. This , and other brass rods as well as washers can be readily found at most hobby shops that deal with R/C cars, trains etc.
If you can't find any let me know. I just got in an order of 1,200 washers and I think I can spare a few.

those Gencos are really nice razors by the way. With those scales are quite nice.
And those scales,well, I have quite a few in my collection that match them. Seems I have a penchant for that style.
Mycarver, thanks a lot!
Appreciate the heads up about the hobby shops. There are a couple fairly close, so I'll take the washers that came with this razor and see what I can find. I want to put washers on the outside as well, so that I can peen the rod over them.
As to pin size, a 3/32" drill bit fits the hole in the tang perfectly. I'm wondering whether 1/16" rod would work or not? That's 1/32" difference. There's got to be as bit of variance allowed. Something to ponder.

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 05-18-2014, 06:42 AM
#9
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They aren't sized to the hole in the tang. Some were drilled others punched in . The hole sizes are all over the place . Some guys fill them and redrill a hole. Some epoxy tubing in there.
Not worth it .
Inner spacer washers are generally very thin compared to the outside washers and of course wide. They serve to keep the shaft from getting scratches .

On many razors the washers aren't much bigger than the rod itself . Then the opposite extreme are the W&B bullseye washers.

And most scales , for reference since you're making wood ones, are 1/8 inch or less . Wood usually less since they have to flex and wood is more rigid than say acrylic or horn.
Besides the fact that fat scales just don't look good. Too clunky .

And , as I'm a professional woodcarver , I like to orient the grain so it follows the curvature of the scale. When the wood gets so thin it's structurally a bit better and it has a nicer look to it.
I even do that with my horn scales as it too has a grain to it.

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 05-18-2014, 09:11 AM
#10
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Mycarver, thanks for all the good info.
I started with headplate material, which is 1/8" thick. After shaping/contouring and sanding they are a bit less. They should work just fine.

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 05-18-2014, 09:29 AM
#11
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Mike,
I'm only speaking in general terms. There are no hard and fast rules with these things. Not like the Razor Police will come after you!
Having a razor you can use that you built yourself is the goal. Having fun doing it is a bonus .

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 05-18-2014, 10:04 AM
#12
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(05-18-2014, 09:29 AM)mycarver Wrote: Mike,
I'm only speaking in general terms. There are no hard and fast rules with these things. Not like the Razor Police will come after you!
Having a razor you can use that you built yourself is the goal. Having fun doing it is a bonus .
I really appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge. As to having fun, that is one of the main reasons I'm doing this. That and the fact that if I want to own straights then this is the only way I can afford to do it. If it weren't for my Boker being passed down to me I would not have been able to begin straight shaving.
There will definitely be more of these in my future. Hopefully there will come a time when I can help others the way you are helping me.
Much appreciated.

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 05-18-2014, 10:47 AM
#13
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I know where you're coming from . All I was able to get were fixer uppers to have something to use. So I fixed them up.
Before I knew it my hobby is fueling my addiction. It's a vicious circle now.
I still love crusty blades and buy them by the fist full .
I do buy nicer examples now, but I still wince at the price tags knowing what I usually spend.

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 05-18-2014, 11:01 AM
#14
  • oscar11
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Nice job so far.

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 06-07-2014, 01:57 PM
#15
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Broke the scales pinning the razor this evening. Will need to make another set.

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 06-07-2014, 02:21 PM
#16
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Awwww Man!
What happened?
Where/how did they crack? I've got a 50/50 chance but was it the back one?

Not to badger (?) you with questions but what type of finish did you use?

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 06-07-2014, 02:54 PM
#17
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Right across the hole where the tang is pinned. I actually just hit it with some CA, let it cure and finished pinning the razor.
It seems solid, but if I have trouble down the road, I'll rescale.

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 06-07-2014, 03:18 PM
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Bummer. But it's part of the learning curve .
CA as a finish or base tends to soak in and really make wood hard. There are several different types and I use the very thin watery one for the initial coats as it gets absorbed quite deeply. It acts to stabilize the wood as opposed to other top coat type finishes. The wood sounds like plastic when sealed.

One other thing I noticed , and I'm not nit picking, but there is a right and a wrong side to washers if you look closely at them.

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 06-07-2014, 03:22 PM
#19
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(06-07-2014, 03:18 PM)mycarver Wrote: One other thing I noticed , and I'm not nit picking, but there is a right and a wrong side to washers if you look closely at them.
LOL! Thanks. I knew that, but forgot it. I hate when that happens.

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 06-07-2014, 04:42 PM
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Had a feeling but was just checking.
You can call me a jerk if you like.
LOL.

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