04-30-2015, 07:18 PM
#1
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40 yom average beard growth. I have been wet shaving for 3 weeks. I was getting closer shaves with less neck irritation with a disposable.
I can hear the blade cutting the whiskers but it doesn't seem that close when I am done shaving. I am not getting any nicks or weeping but my
neck is uncomfortable when I am done. I do a 3 pass but can still feel the sand paper when I brush my hand against the grain.
Any suggestions as to what I may be doing wrong would be appreciated.

Razor: Muhle R89 Twist
Blades: Astra Platinum / Personna
Brushes: Semogue Owners Club / Omega S synthetic
Soaps: Proraso shave cream / Phoenix Cavendish

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 04-30-2015, 07:32 PM
#2
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What direction are the passes? WTG, XTG or ATG? Have you mapped your beard to know the grain yet? I recommend 1st pass WTG, 2nd pass XTG and 3rd pass ATG until your beard is mapped. As always, light pressure. That should get you close to BBS or at least a DFS. Good luck.


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 04-30-2015, 07:46 PM
#3
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I was getting a little bit of the sandpaper feeling around my Adam's apple. Trying different technique tommorow. The biggest thing is not to get frustrated it is supposed to be fun and enjoyable. One thing you may want to look at is possibly different blades. I have tried countless blades and they all give varying outcomes with the same technique. I personally like the polsilver and the Gillette silver blues. Another thing pointed out to me by other members try stretching the skin more and make sure your lather is plenty slick. Happy shaving

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 04-30-2015, 07:57 PM
#4
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(04-30-2015, 07:32 PM)marvs Wrote: What direction are the passes?  WTG, XTG or ATG?  Have you mapped your beard to know the grain yet?  I recommend 1st pass WTG, 2nd pass XTG and 3rd pass ATG until your beard is mapped.  As always, light pressure.  That should get you close to BBS or at least a DFS.   Good luck.


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 WTG, XTG (ear to nose) or ATG, I did not map my beard. What is the best way to do this? Is it just a matter of using paper and pencil?

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 05-01-2015, 01:17 AM
#5
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Hair growth mapping is very important. I had the same issues when I started. I let mine grow out for about 3 days then looked at it in a magnified mirror and seen which way the facial hair growth really was. Come to find out I was wrong on some areas as to the growth then after the mapping I get BBS in 2 passes and a clean up with no nicks at all. Here is a link to help. I pretty much just right clicked and saved the pic and then did a diagram and used it even time I shaved. http://sharpologist.com/2010/07/interact...e-map.html

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 05-01-2015, 03:39 AM
#6
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Hair mapping  can be simple - you let your beard grow for one to three days and feel the direction your hair grows in.  It grows in different directions in different parts of your face.  And your hair may grow in such a way that you need to do a hybrid  pass that combines XTG with ATG.  For example, to get a BBS on my cheeks I can't just go straight up ATG.  Rather, I have to go up and at an angle towards my nose.

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 05-01-2015, 05:01 AM
#7
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It can get funky at times. My hair was going all over the place. It is rewarding though after the fact. My shaves improved tremendously.

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 05-01-2015, 06:58 AM
#8
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When I started wet shaving again, I bought 4 DE razors.  The 2 best were the EJ DE89 and the Merkur Futur.  The Futur allows you to change settings which is very helpful.  First pass on setting 2 wtg, second and third pass with setting 1.5 ctg and atg.  Sometimes I drop to setting 1 on the atg.  By backing off, you cut down on how aggressive the shave is.  Also I have tried countless shaving creams and soap and finally found some very reasonable brands that offer a slick cushion and leaves your skin soft.  Lastly, the blade is very important.  I tried some that were so dull it was like using sandpaper.  I like the Crystal which is a moderate blade and the Feather which you need to use with a very light touch.  It's a trial and error situation, but once you get the right combination, you will really enjoy the shave.

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 05-01-2015, 07:27 AM
#9
  • jtmke
  • Ex shaving hater
  • milwaukee
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When I mapped my face I did my normal two hot towel prep and then shaved straight down. Wiped my face well and rubbed the direction of my shave. All smooth in that direction I rubbed my face opposite of that direction and sideways of that direction. After a one pass with what you presume is with the grain you can feel which direction your remaining stubble is the roughest. This is against the grain. Repeat and you may only need a two or 2.5 pass shave for BBS. 

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 05-01-2015, 10:27 AM
#10
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It definitely pays off to know exactly which way it grows. Getting BBS after 2 passes is pretty awesome and saves your face from all kinds of irritation.

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 05-01-2015, 10:36 AM
#11
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(05-01-2015, 01:17 AM)jhawlz Wrote: Hair growth mapping is very important. I had the same issues when I started. I let mine grow out for about 3 days then looked at it in a magnified mirror and seen which way the facial hair growth really was. Come to find out I was wrong on some areas as to the growth then after the mapping I get BBS in 2 passes and a clean up with no nicks at all. Here is a link to help. I pretty much just right clicked and saved the pic and then did a diagram and used it even time I shaved. http://sharpologist.com/2010/07/interact...e-map.html

Thanks - I will give that a try

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 05-01-2015, 03:25 PM
#12
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It really is all about practicing and improving your technique and patience! Good luck. 

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 05-01-2015, 10:18 PM
#13
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(05-01-2015, 03:25 PM)celestino Wrote: It really is all about practicing and improving your technique and patience! Good luck. 

Well, tonight (day and 1/2 growth) I shaved half my face my muhle the other half with a costco gillette multi blade disposable.
Used the same brush and soap routine as usual. I also used the 3 pass (wtg, xtg,atg) I tried to do as suggested with paying attention to the hair growth. 
The disposal side was definitely closer with much less irritation.  I can go against  the grain and there is no sandpaper at all on the disposal side.

Thanks for the suggestions but I think I may just use the face mapping, 3 pass, brush and shaving soap with a disposable razor 

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 05-02-2015, 02:16 AM
#14
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Bayside, NY
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You're doing this for 3 weeks. Don't give up altogether on the DE. Try honing your technique. Your perseverance will be met with shaves that will make your disposable shaves pale in comparison. Try again. And again. If after another month you feel the same as you do now, you can always go back to the multi-blade contraptions. 3 weeks isn't enough time.

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 05-06-2015, 10:52 AM
#15
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Try shimming your r89,it makes the razor more aggressive and changes the angle of the shave which for me gave a better shave. Take an old blade and a pair of scissors and cut the cutting edge just off the blade,the less you cut the better but make sure the "shim"is smaller than the blade. Insert your blade as you normally would,but add the shim under your blade and screw the razor together normally. I have used 3 shims I believe and each one is increasing the blade gap,as well as the bend in the blade. It allows you to shave at a slighter smaller angle (handle towards floor). Be warned though the more aggressive the razor the more your technique needs to be spot on. It's nothing to fear and I know at least for me I can't use razors on the milder side as I have heavy beard growth. It very well could be the razor as well,the r89/de89 are on the milder side and I enjoyed how they shaved but for my growth and skin type even with a feather blade it took too much effort to get a good shave and I always had razor burn. I gave the Mrs. The de89 and got a slant and haven't picked up a mild razor since. As always what's best for my face may get you cut.

Another thing when just starting out, quit chasing the Baby smooth shave! It will come with time and patience. The more you go back to carts the more your relearning the bad habits that need to be unlearned to be good with a DE. Also you must know your growth pattern for a good shave that simple. I have random places that the hair changes direction and couldnt figure out why it wasn't ever smooth and always raw feeling and the reason was I may of been shaving ATG the first pass and not with. If this is the case with you then after you get the hang of shaving then a slant or open comb razor may be better for you. For now keep at it,your shaves will start improving day to day if you lay off the carts. 

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 05-06-2015, 11:20 AM
#16
  • blzrfn
  • Butterscotch Bandit
  • Vancouver USA
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Just use whatever you are comfortable with.  It took me several months to really dial down a technique that worked for me.  After several years I am at a point where I know which razors and blades I like and can use any of them to get a 3-pass BBS without irritation, nicks, or cuts (an occasional weeper occurs when trying out new blades or soaps/creams but those are few and far between). 

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 05-08-2015, 06:20 PM
#17
  • Nero
  • Ban Groupthink from Earth
  • le montagne
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First thing is first… you need to map your face or else you won't know what is WTG, XTG, ATG.  The G is for grain, not gravity  Biggrin   

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 05-09-2015, 06:53 AM
#18
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I don't think we need to talk shimming with a new open blade shaver. I will echo the myriad comments to map your beard growth. Then practice technique & lather creation. If things are still poor then consider giving a SE (single edge) a try. 

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 05-09-2015, 06:54 AM
#19
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(05-01-2015, 10:18 PM)D-Man Wrote:
(05-01-2015, 03:25 PM)celestino Wrote: It really is all about practicing and improving your technique and patience! Good luck. 

Well, tonight (day and 1/2 growth) I shaved half my face my muhle the other half with a costco gillette multi blade disposable.
Used the same brush and soap routine as usual. I also used the 3 pass (wtg, xtg,atg) I tried to do as suggested with paying attention to the hair growth. 
The disposal side was definitely closer with much less irritation.  I can go against  the grain and there is no sandpaper at all on the disposal side.

Thanks for the suggestions but I think I may just use the face mapping, 3 pass, brush and shaving soap with a disposable razor 

This is a great solution to your issues. There's little reason to switch up something that's working for you (unless you're doing it as a hobby). A lot of us here switched to traditional wetshaving because multi-blade razors were uncomfortable or causing ingrowns, etc. If they're working for you and you don't need to save the money on blades or other stuff, I wouldn't switch. 

Keep your DE razor and use it occasionally, maybe your shaves will improve with improved technique. In that case, you can switch to the DE when you're ready for it. 

One note: multi-blade razors work for most guys because you don't need as good technique when using them as you do with traditional DE's/SE's and especially straights. If you want those to work for you, you have to be willing to put in some effort and to not get frustrated. If you're not responding well to these implements, you're doing the right thing by putting them away and using what works for you.

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