07-01-2015, 06:25 AM
#1
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So, I received my above the tie with m1 two days ago and gave it a go.
I used to get DFS/BBS from merkur 34c, and BBS almost everytime from razorock baby smooth. (it got traded unfortunately)

Using the same reference/tester blade, gillette platinum, I found ATT with M1 to be slightly milder than babysmooth and 34c.
I find myself pressing a little harder to remove more hair, especially when I do a pass and do not hear anything, but I still feel some stubble afterwards.
That just means it wasn't aggressive enough to cut some of the stubble, which resulted in stubble left behind.

Two shaves I had felt pretty similar. It is irritation free even after 3 passes plus touch up, but it isn't quite as BBS as before.
I would say in between DFS and BBS. I am by no means complaining about DFS/BBS shave, but I am finding that it might be slightly too mild.

I thought razorock babysmooth was a mild razor, but att m1 could be touch milder than RRBS if I my perception is correct.

Would I benefit moving onto R1 plate? or M2 open comb?

Just wondering what people think who started with m1 plate and the moved on to other plates.

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 07-01-2015, 06:30 AM
#2
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I think you would benefit moving to an R1 plate. I have an M1, R1 and H2 plates and I use the H2 when I want a really close 1 pass shave with a cleanup pass. I use the R1 as the daily driver and sometimes follow up the R1 pass with the M1. The R1 is smooth and efficient; not as smooth as the M1 but its damn close.

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 07-01-2015, 07:56 AM
#3
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(07-01-2015, 06:30 AM)lestorfreemon Wrote: I think you would benefit moving to an R1 plate. I have an M1, R1 and H2 plates and I use the H2 when I want a really close 1 pass shave with a cleanup pass. I use the R1 as the daily driver and sometimes follow up the R1 pass with the M1. The R1 is smooth and efficient; not as smooth as the M1 but its damn close.


I hear people say r1 is the best of both worlds. Maybe I should look for someone to trade with me, or sell this outright and get r1 plate.
Well even before that, maybe I should try feather blade and see if that helps.  I have been avoiding feather blades because first shaves with them are just too rough.

What about M2? Much difference or not?

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 07-01-2015, 08:04 AM
#4
  • kwsher
  • Senior Member
  • Austin, TX - USA
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I have the m2, r2 and h2 plates. R2 is my go to thus far and I don't find overly aggressive but very efficient. I don't have any of the x1 baseplates as I have been on an OC kick lately but would imagine they parallel in efficiency.

Good luck!

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 07-01-2015, 08:24 AM
#5
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(07-01-2015, 07:56 AM)parachutefactory Wrote:
(07-01-2015, 06:30 AM)lestorfreemon Wrote: I think you would benefit moving to an R1 plate. I have an M1, R1 and H2 plates and I use the H2 when I want a really close 1 pass shave with a cleanup pass. I use the R1 as the daily driver and sometimes follow up the R1 pass with the M1. The R1 is smooth and efficient; not as smooth as the M1 but its damn close.


I hear people say r1 is the best of both worlds. Maybe I should look for someone to trade with me, or sell this outright and get r1 plate.
Well even before that, maybe I should try feather blade and see if that helps.  I have been avoiding feather blades because first shaves with them are just too rough.

What about M2? Much difference or not?

I just recently repurchased the M2 plate. It 'feels' more aggressive than the M1. If you prefer open combs, the M2 is fantastic. I like my M1 plate a lot actually. Once you find the angle, it shaves very smoothly and efficiently. That being said, the M2 shaves maybe a bit closer, but it doesn't feel as smooth to me.

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 07-01-2015, 03:55 PM
#6
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(07-01-2015, 08:24 AM)Silence! Wrote:
(07-01-2015, 07:56 AM)parachutefactory Wrote:
(07-01-2015, 06:30 AM)lestorfreemon Wrote: I think you would benefit moving to an R1 plate. I have an M1, R1 and H2 plates and I use the H2 when I want a really close 1 pass shave with a cleanup pass. I use the R1 as the daily driver and sometimes follow up the R1 pass with the M1. The R1 is smooth and efficient; not as smooth as the M1 but its damn close.


I hear people say r1 is the best of both worlds. Maybe I should look for someone to trade with me, or sell this outright and get r1 plate.
Well even before that, maybe I should try feather blade and see if that helps.  I have been avoiding feather blades because first shaves with them are just too rough.

What about M2? Much difference or not?

I just recently repurchased the M2 plate. It 'feels' more aggressive than the M1. If you prefer open combs, the M2 is fantastic. I like my M1 plate a lot actually. Once you find the angle, it shaves very smoothly and efficiently. That being said, the M2 shaves maybe a bit closer, but it doesn't feel as smooth to me.

I actually never tried an open comb, so I will see if I like it. I think my preference is razor to be on the rather mild side than overly aggressive side, well, for the most part.   It's just that if it's too mild, I feel that it doesn't cut with minimal effort and I have to push it down really hard on my skin, which could lead to irritation.  With M1, it didn't cause any irritation thankfully.

I will be back on my regular rotation and come back to ATT m2 in about 2 days or so and see if it shows any improvement.

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 07-02-2015, 06:11 AM
#7
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I have bought a 7 pièces set ATT bar set 6 months ago.  I have tried the set with several blade brands.  I have come to the conclusion, for me, the R1 plate with Astra Green was the best.  With Feather blades, I have found it too agressive also with the M plate.

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 07-02-2015, 06:16 AM
#8
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(07-01-2015, 07:56 AM)parachutefactory Wrote:
(07-01-2015, 06:30 AM)lestorfreemon Wrote: I think you would benefit moving to an R1 plate. I have an M1, R1 and H2 plates and I use the H2 when I want a really close 1 pass shave with a cleanup pass. I use the R1 as the daily driver and sometimes follow up the R1 pass with the M1. The R1 is smooth and efficient; not as smooth as the M1 but its damn close.


I hear people say r1 is the best of both worlds. Maybe I should look for someone to trade with me, or sell this outright and get r1 plate.
Well even before that, maybe I should try feather blade and see if that helps.  I have been avoiding feather blades because first shaves with them are just too rough.

What about M2? Much difference or not?


I actually just shaved this morning with the M1 plate and a Feather blade and it was just right. The M1 tames the Feather enough where I did not have any irritation or nicks with two passes but I still had a DFS. My go to for the R1 plate is the Polsilver or a Gillette Silver Blue; both sharp but smoother than a Feather (at least to me). I dare not use a Feather in the R1 or H2 that I have, as I don't find that blade comfortable on those plates.

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 07-02-2015, 09:10 AM
#9
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(07-02-2015, 06:16 AM)lestorfreemon Wrote:
(07-01-2015, 07:56 AM)parachutefactory Wrote:
(07-01-2015, 06:30 AM)lestorfreemon Wrote: I think you would benefit moving to an R1 plate. I have an M1, R1 and H2 plates and I use the H2 when I want a really close 1 pass shave with a cleanup pass. I use the R1 as the daily driver and sometimes follow up the R1 pass with the M1. The R1 is smooth and efficient; not as smooth as the M1 but its damn close.


I hear people say r1 is the best of both worlds. Maybe I should look for someone to trade with me, or sell this outright and get r1 plate.
Well even before that, maybe I should try feather blade and see if that helps.  I have been avoiding feather blades because first shaves with them are just too rough.

What about M2? Much difference or not?


I actually just shaved this morning with the M1 plate and a Feather blade and it was just right. The M1 tames the Feather enough where I did not have any irritation or nicks with two passes but I still had a DFS. My go to for the R1 plate is the Polsilver or a Gillette Silver Blue; both sharp but smoother than a Feather (at least to me). I dare not use a Feather in the R1 or H2 that I have, as I don't find that blade comfortable on those plates.

I will definitely give feather blade a try and see if that improves efficiency. 

And then i will try the m2 plate.

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 07-02-2015, 10:57 AM
#10
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The M1 was way too inefficient for me.  The M2 is just as inefficient but also very uncomfortable to boot.  The R1 is a step in the right direction.  It was with that plate that I learned the benefit of the steep angle.  With a good lather you can have an efficient and comfortable shave, but I found that too often it wasn't as comfortable as what I was looking for.  For that reason I'd recommend the S1 over any other ATT plate.  It's as efficient as the R plate but more comfortable in the troubled areas of the neck.  It would necessitate a new cap as well as the new plate, but IMO it's worth it if you're sticking with ATT.

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 07-03-2015, 06:27 PM
#11
  • DayMan
  • Senior Member
  • Tennessee
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I recently purchased the M2 plate and I find it mild and efficient.  It took me 4 or 5 shaves to find the right angle, so you might just need some time with it.  I don't have to apply any pressure.

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 07-03-2015, 07:00 PM
#12
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OP , have you seen the youtube video of douglas smythe and the feather blades? He takes a piece of denim , either cut from old blue jeans or whatever, loads his razor and shaves 5 times on each side, takes the blade out flips it and repeats. It takes that super fine edge off the feather a bit and gives a 2nd shave feel the first time. I tried it and it does work if feathers are a little too harsh for you. Also if yiu want to trade back let me know if they aren't working out for you.

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 07-05-2015, 03:09 PM
#13
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(07-03-2015, 07:00 PM)Otis375 Wrote: OP , have you seen the youtube video of douglas smythe and the feather blades? He takes a piece of denim , either cut from old blue jeans or whatever, loads his razor and shaves 5 times on each side, takes the blade out flips it and repeats. It takes that super fine edge off the feather a bit and gives a 2nd shave feel the first time. I tried it and it does work if feathers are a little too harsh for you. Also if yiu want to trade back let me know if they aren't working out for you.

sounds like it serves the same purpose as corking?
I really haven't tried either, but I think I will try either one and see if it helps with initial roughness.
Feather used to be my favorite blade, but that was when I was using ej89.

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 07-06-2015, 07:25 AM
#14
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last night, tried shaving again with m1 with corked feather blade. Seemed to mow through my whiskers pretty easily, no tugging or slowing down.
Thought I got a pretty good shave after 2~3 passes with touch up.  After rinsing and cleaning up and AS splash, I did feel some stubble left over on my neck and chin area.
This morning, I feel unusually scruffy face and neck when rubbed ATG with my hand, something that I would see at around 3~4pm'ish, not 11am.

M1 really must be really too mild to give me a close shave.
Here I come R1.

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 07-06-2015, 07:47 AM
#15
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I have the H2, H1, & R1 plates.   Three passes with the R1 is the perfect DE shave for me.  BBS smooth without irritation.

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 07-06-2015, 07:55 AM
#16
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It can get really expensive trying to find that perfect tool and that perfect shave. Probably my finest shave with least irritation comes from a well honed 5/8 full hollow Heljestrand MK31, followed closely by a Feather AS D2 w/ Feather blade. Many other less expensive alternatives give me close to 90% of the shave experience aforementioned to include a $2 Gillette Ball End Tech circa 1956 with practically any blade I load it with, or any Solingen, Sheffield straight razor from 5/8-8/8. It is a shame to have to pay up to $175 initial purchase to achieve that extra superb shave without any irritation but I guess we choose to do so chasing that allusive BBS instead of just a DFS.

When I hold the Feather AS D2 in my hand I get a little upset with myself that even used I spent $135 for it because it is simply nothing more than a very precise and beautiful object that performs beyond similar styled objects that cost fractions of that initial buy in amount. Those lower priced objects admittedly perform to within 90% of what the Feather does and I am not the guy who attempts a BBS shave day in day out. My first minimal gut reaction is to accept a lower cost DFS and off load the Feather to someone chasing that BBS daily experience. But then I awake and acknowledge that if as far as DE safety razors go, if the Feather is the LAST shaving tool I ever purchase, I will eventually come out ahead financially. Since I have already experienced as close a shave as a straight razor using the Feather, I have no need to improve upon it for what would break down to merely an aesthetic difference with any of the myriad of stainless steel competitors. 

To sum up and tie into your question as to whether a razor is too mild or not I would suggest that a precision crafted artful stainless safety razor should in fact be mild so that by your hand you can determine what level of shave you achieve, ie number of passes, angle, prep, shaving medium etc. A mild well crafted stainless steel DE is your friend.

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 07-06-2015, 09:54 AM
#17
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(07-06-2015, 07:55 AM)minimalist Wrote: It can get really expensive trying to find that perfect tool and that perfect shave. Probably my finest shave with least irritation comes from a well honed 5/8 full hollow Heljestrand MK31, followed closely by a Feather AS D2 w/ Feather blade. Many other less expensive alternatives give me close to 90% of the shave experience aforementioned to include a $2 Gillette Ball End Tech circa 1956 with practically any blade I load it with, or any Solingen, Sheffield straight razor from 5/8-8/8. It is a shame to have to pay up to $175 initial purchase to achieve that extra superb shave without any irritation but I guess we choose to do so chasing that allusive BBS instead of just a DFS.

When I hold the Feather AS D2 in my hand I get a little upset with myself that even used I spent $135 for it because it is simply nothing more than a very precise and beautiful object that performs beyond similar styled objects that cost fractions of that initial buy in amount. Those lower priced objects admittedly perform to within 90% of what the Feather does and I am not the guy who attempts a BBS shave day in day out. My first minimal gut reaction is to accept a lower cost DFS and off load the Feather to someone chasing that BBS daily experience. But then I awake and acknowledge that if as far as DE safety razors go, if the Feather is the LAST shaving tool I ever purchase, I will eventually come out ahead financially. Since I have already experienced as close a shave as a straight razor using the Feather, I have no need to improve upon it for what would break down to merely an aesthetic difference with any of the myriad of stainless steel competitors. 

To sum up and tie into your question as to whether a razor is too mild or not I would suggest that a precision crafted artful stainless safety razor should in fact be mild so that by your hand you can determine what level of shave you achieve, ie number of passes, angle, prep, shaving medium etc. A mild well crafted stainless steel DE is your friend.


There definitely seems to be diminishing return as the razor price goes beyond $50+ or so. I found merkur 34c to be perfectly adequate to achieve a good shave.  I just wanted a premium feel and people touted ATT to be the ultimate razor that a lot of people should get as their last razor, so I had to give it a try.  I love the build quality, because when I hold it in my hand, I know I am using a well-crafted piece of equipment, instead of something mass produced in inferior quality, like merkur 34c. (only in terms of craftmanship, not the shave quality) and I wanted this to be my last razor purchase ever, but seems like I am not quite done yet. 

I just can't give up quite yet.  I will probably sell this M1 and go for the R1 and see if that helps a little. 

So what makes this M1 so mild? Is it just the narrow  gap blade?

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 07-06-2015, 10:19 AM
#18
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(07-06-2015, 09:54 AM)parachutefactory Wrote:
(07-06-2015, 07:55 AM)minimalist Wrote: It can get really expensive trying to find that perfect tool and that perfect shave. Probably my finest shave with least irritation comes from a well honed 5/8 full hollow Heljestrand MK31, followed closely by a Feather AS D2 w/ Feather blade. Many other less expensive alternatives give me close to 90% of the shave experience aforementioned to include a $2 Gillette Ball End Tech circa 1956 with practically any blade I load it with, or any Solingen, Sheffield straight razor from 5/8-8/8. It is a shame to have to pay up to $175 initial purchase to achieve that extra superb shave without any irritation but I guess we choose to do so chasing that allusive BBS instead of just a DFS.

When I hold the Feather AS D2 in my hand I get a little upset with myself that even used I spent $135 for it because it is simply nothing more than a very precise and beautiful object that performs beyond similar styled objects that cost fractions of that initial buy in amount. Those lower priced objects admittedly perform to within 90% of what the Feather does and I am not the guy who attempts a BBS shave day in day out. My first minimal gut reaction is to accept a lower cost DFS and off load the Feather to someone chasing that BBS daily experience. But then I awake and acknowledge that if as far as DE safety razors go, if the Feather is the LAST shaving tool I ever purchase, I will eventually come out ahead financially. Since I have already experienced as close a shave as a straight razor using the Feather, I have no need to improve upon it for what would break down to merely an aesthetic difference with any of the myriad of stainless steel competitors. 

To sum up and tie into your question as to whether a razor is too mild or not I would suggest that a precision crafted artful stainless safety razor should in fact be mild so that by your hand you can determine what level of shave you achieve, ie number of passes, angle, prep, shaving medium etc. A mild well crafted stainless steel DE is your friend.


There definitely seems to be diminishing return as the razor price goes beyond $50+ or so. I found merkur 34c to be perfectly adequate to achieve a good shave.  I just wanted a premium feel and people touted ATT to be the ultimate razor that a lot of people should get as their last razor, so I had to give it a try.  I love the build quality, because when I hold it in my hand, I know I am using a well-crafted piece of equipment, instead of something mass produced in inferior quality, like merkur 34c. (only in terms of craftmanship, not the shave quality) and I wanted this to be my last razor purchase ever, but seems like I am not quite done yet. 

I just can't give up quite yet.  I will probably sell this M1 and go for the R1 and see if that helps a little. 

So what makes this M1 so mild? Is it just the narrow  gap blade?

My experience with DE razors are primarily vintage Gillettes (over 250) Merkurs of multiple varieties, Edwin Jagger multiples, and some orphaned razors. Until I purchased the Feather AS D2 I had never owned a stainless DE. For me, the mild shave it provides is optimal because I can determine with prep, shaving medium, angle, and pressure or lack thereof, the quality and depth of my shaving experience. Our nature as enthusiasts is to seemingly view SOTD photos and become tempted to purchase those wares that intrigue us. Best of luck in finding one that really works for you and gives you satisfaction.

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 07-06-2015, 10:43 AM
#19
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(07-06-2015, 10:19 AM)minimalist Wrote:
(07-06-2015, 09:54 AM)parachutefactory Wrote:
(07-06-2015, 07:55 AM)minimalist Wrote: It can get really expensive trying to find that perfect tool and that perfect shave. Probably my finest shave with least irritation comes from a well honed 5/8 full hollow Heljestrand MK31, followed closely by a Feather AS D2 w/ Feather blade. Many other less expensive alternatives give me close to 90% of the shave experience aforementioned to include a $2 Gillette Ball End Tech circa 1956 with practically any blade I load it with, or any Solingen, Sheffield straight razor from 5/8-8/8. It is a shame to have to pay up to $175 initial purchase to achieve that extra superb shave without any irritation but I guess we choose to do so chasing that allusive BBS instead of just a DFS.

When I hold the Feather AS D2 in my hand I get a little upset with myself that even used I spent $135 for it because it is simply nothing more than a very precise and beautiful object that performs beyond similar styled objects that cost fractions of that initial buy in amount. Those lower priced objects admittedly perform to within 90% of what the Feather does and I am not the guy who attempts a BBS shave day in day out. My first minimal gut reaction is to accept a lower cost DFS and off load the Feather to someone chasing that BBS daily experience. But then I awake and acknowledge that if as far as DE safety razors go, if the Feather is the LAST shaving tool I ever purchase, I will eventually come out ahead financially. Since I have already experienced as close a shave as a straight razor using the Feather, I have no need to improve upon it for what would break down to merely an aesthetic difference with any of the myriad of stainless steel competitors. 

To sum up and tie into your question as to whether a razor is too mild or not I would suggest that a precision crafted artful stainless safety razor should in fact be mild so that by your hand you can determine what level of shave you achieve, ie number of passes, angle, prep, shaving medium etc. A mild well crafted stainless steel DE is your friend.


There definitely seems to be diminishing return as the razor price goes beyond $50+ or so. I found merkur 34c to be perfectly adequate to achieve a good shave.  I just wanted a premium feel and people touted ATT to be the ultimate razor that a lot of people should get as their last razor, so I had to give it a try.  I love the build quality, because when I hold it in my hand, I know I am using a well-crafted piece of equipment, instead of something mass produced in inferior quality, like merkur 34c. (only in terms of craftmanship, not the shave quality) and I wanted this to be my last razor purchase ever, but seems like I am not quite done yet. 

I just can't give up quite yet.  I will probably sell this M1 and go for the R1 and see if that helps a little. 

So what makes this M1 so mild? Is it just the narrow  gap blade?

My experience with DE razors are primarily vintage Gillettes (over 250) Merkurs of multiple varieties, Edwin Jagger multiples, and some orphaned razors. Until I purchased the Feather AS D2 I had never owned a stainless DE. For me, the mild shave it provides is optimal because I can determine with prep, shaving medium, angle, and pressure or lack thereof, the quality and depth of my shaving experience. Our nature as enthusiasts is to seemingly view SOTD photos and become tempted to purchase those wares that intrigue us. Best of luck in finding one that really works for you and gives you satisfaction.

I learned many moons ago, what works for one, it may not work for others.  Well said!  So, I don't buy anything based on reviews.  If I want to try it, I buy, if it works fine, if not in the drawer it goes and I only have myself to blame for it.

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 07-06-2015, 09:44 PM
#20
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I don't think I could try everything myself, so while YMMV, good reviews can be helpful in suggesting what has a good likelihood to work or not.  A good review does not just say "yea" or "nay" but gives some detail so you have an idea of what conditions affect the outcome (e.g., skin sensitivity, experience level, preparation, personal likes and dislikes).  This is true about reviews in other areas, such as films, wines, and automobiles.  I wouldn't buy a car without driving it, but I don't test drive all the cars out there, because YMMV (especially with cars).

This being said, I have an ATT with M2 & R1 plates.  I also have an EJ 89 that was my first DE when I started about 8 months ago.  It was a great starter because it was pretty gentle (mild).  While I did draw some blood on the road to honing my skills, I was mostly successful at getting DFS with 2-3 passes and with little blood.  I did get a RR Mission, but felt it too aggressive and rough and I PIFfed it.  When I got the ATT about 3 months ago (first the M2), based on reviews, I experimented with it and decided also to get the R1 for more efficiency.  I rarely pull out the EJ now because both the M2 and R1 give me closer, and smoother shaves. My technique is much improved.  I think the R1 is a little smoother and perhaps more efficient, but they're close.

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