09-23-2015, 04:08 PM
#1
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Good evening all. Got a question for you. Today I received the CRSW sandalwood in the wooden bowl that I had procured from another member. It's a nice bowl and hope to make it last. I was wondering if anyone does anything to treat their wooden bowl from time to time with some kind of oil or if a coat of poly wipe was added etc. Will they absorb any of the oils, fats, what ever off the soap and stay conditioned or should I do more?

I also have a wooden SV bowl and a C&E one as well. Those 2 seem to have more of a finish to them and didn't think they would need anything done. Am I wrong on this or will the bowls last with no issues with just normal use?

Thanks all for your time and help and if this topic is already beat to death and I was just to lazy to search I apologize!   Tongue

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 09-23-2015, 05:34 PM
#2
  • garyg
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  • Great Lakes
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I've always found the wooden bowls (DRH, Mama Bear's, AoS, there's more here I can't recall right off) to outlast the soaps by at least a factor of 4x without anything other than air drying overnight.  My brother does have a groady wooden bowl he claims he got in college in the 70's, that he still uses.  Hopefully an expert will happen along shortly

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 09-23-2015, 05:38 PM
#3
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(09-23-2015, 05:34 PM)garyg Wrote: I've always found the wooden bowls (DRH, Mama Bear's, AoS, there's more here I can't recall right off) to outlast the soaps by at least a factor of 4x without anything other than air drying overnight.  My brother does have a groady wooden bowl he claims he got in college in the 70's, that he still uses.  Hopefully an expert will happen along shortly

Thanks garyg. I've seen bowls that have lasted for years but never knew if anyone did anything to them treatment wise.

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 09-23-2015, 05:54 PM
#4
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Since it doesn't have to be food safe, the first thing that popped into my head was spar urethane because of its resistance to water.  I should probably check my finishing books though....

I also see brush turners using cyanoacrylate (super glue) on YouTube vids, but I'm not 100% sure why.

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 09-23-2015, 06:09 PM
#5
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(09-23-2015, 05:54 PM)Shannon Wrote: Since it doesn't have to be food safe, the first thing that popped into my head was spar urethane because of it's resistance to water.  I should probably check my finishing books though....

I also see brush turners using cyanoacrylate (super glue) on YouTube vids, but I'm not 100% sure why.

Thanks for the tips Brian. I will look in to those!

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 10-12-2015, 10:56 PM
#6
  • SRNewb
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  • No. Va, USA
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(09-23-2015, 05:54 PM)Shannon Wrote: Since it doesn't have to be food safe, the first thing that popped into my head was spar urethane because of its resistance to water.  I should probably check my finishing books though....

I also see brush turners using cyanoacrylate (super glue) on YouTube vids, but I'm not 100% sure why.
Super glue is a very easy, fairly quick way to finish wood. And it dries hard and is durable.
Many guitar and instrument builders like to use it to fill the grain in porous woods prior to finishing. It also has a tendency to "pop" the grain, or give it a bit of shimmer and make it stand out more. Lovely stuff. Here's a couple of sets of straight scales I finished with CA.

[Image: 100_2471.JPG]

[Image: 100_2554.JPG]

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 10-13-2015, 01:17 AM
#7
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Very nice! Thanks for sharing. So you just pretty much paint the glue on it?

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 10-13-2015, 04:42 AM
#8
  • SRNewb
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Well, you have to lightly sand between coats, otherwise you won't get a smooth surface. You need to build up enough finish thickness that you can finally sand the surface flat without going through to wood, and then buff it to a high gloss, but the CA cures quickly, so the coats go on pretty fast.


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 01-12-2016, 02:49 PM
#9
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Has anyone had issues with the SV wooden bowls? I'm considering picking one up but somehow wood seems especially fragile for use as a shaving bowl.

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 01-12-2016, 03:29 PM
#10
  • garyg
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I only last year received the SV wooden bowl, so far it seems pretty study, but can't testify to longevity.  That one presents as well made I'll say.  

Wood bowls will not last like stone or glass, obviously unless they are dropped, but I have a couple wood bowls (AoS and Mama Bear's) that go back almost a decade and seem fine.  Probably the most practical bowls are the aluminum ones, but Cade soap doesn't cut it for me and the C&S machined aluminum bowls, while tres chic, are ungodly expensive.  
I wouldn't fret too much over it, unless you leave it soaking in a sink it should last a while

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 01-12-2016, 03:43 PM
#11
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(01-12-2016, 03:29 PM)garyg Wrote: I only last year received the SV wooden bowl, so far it seems pretty study, but can't testify to longevity.  That one presents as well made I'll say.  

Wood bowls will not last like stone or glass, obviously unless they are dropped, but I have a couple wood bowls (AoS and Mama Bear's) that go back almost a decade and seem fine.  Probably the most practical bowls are the aluminum ones, but Cade soap doesn't cut it for me and the C&S machined aluminum bowls, while tres chic, are ungodly expensive.  
I wouldn't fret too much over it, unless you leave it soaking in a sink it should last a while

Thanks for the reply! This is helpful. I suppose I shouldn't have anything to worry about since I tend to air dry soaps without the cap on after every shave. Hopefully lathering directly from the bowl won't lead to any deterioration of the wood.

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 01-12-2016, 03:57 PM
#12
  • garyg
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(01-12-2016, 03:43 PM)NeoXerxes Wrote:
(01-12-2016, 03:29 PM)garyg Wrote: I only last year received the SV wooden bowl, so far it seems pretty study, but can't testify to longevity.  That one presents as well made I'll say.  

Wood bowls will not last like stone or glass, obviously unless they are dropped, but I have a couple wood bowls (AoS and Mama Bear's) that go back almost a decade and seem fine.  Probably the most practical bowls are the aluminum ones, but Cade soap doesn't cut it for me and the C&S machined aluminum bowls, while tres chic, are ungodly expensive.  
I wouldn't fret too much over it, unless you leave it soaking in a sink it should last a while

Thanks for the reply! This is helpful. I suppose I shouldn't have anything to worry about since I tend to air dry soaps without the cap on after every shave. Hopefully lathering directly from the bowl won't lead to any deterioration of the wood.

I use the wooden bowl to load the brush  then face lather.  I always dump any of the water on the soap puck & let them go overnight with the top off, then replace and move to the next soap after it's had a chance to dry.  If I was moving daily I'd likely forego a wooden bowl, but then probably would be using a shave stick anyway.

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 01-12-2016, 04:02 PM
#13
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I have ever a decent enough size rotation that my wooden bowls don't get as much use so I donate them lasting a bit after I sat down and thought about it. I also do the same with leaving the top off after use and making sure there is standing water.

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 01-12-2016, 04:11 PM
#14
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Cyanoacrylate Glue (what we know as 'super glue') actually has a form that is used as a surgical glue.

This glue actually gets activated in the presence of water, so it makes for a good bonding agent where water is present.  I know a lot of aquarium fanatics (that's for another forum) use it to glue corals and other things together.

The glue is not very, strong, however and can be separated very easily so for bonding two items together it's not that great; however for filling voids and such it actually works very well since there will be minimal lateral sheering forces.


Back on topic - I found that my SV bowl is losing it's 'finish' at the bottom.  It's weird.  I'll snap a pic and post up when I get home.

My TOBS and DR Harris bowls, however, have stood up nicely without any special care.

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 01-12-2016, 04:47 PM
#15
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(01-12-2016, 04:11 PM)GloryUprising Wrote: Cyanoacrylate Glue (what we know as 'super glue') actually has a form that is used as a surgical glue.

This glue actually gets activated in the presence of water, so it makes for a good bonding agent where water is present.  I know a lot of aquarium fanatics (that's for another forum) use it to glue corals and other things together.

The glue is not very, strong, however and can be separated very easily so for bonding two items together it's not that great; however for filling voids and such it actually works very well since there will be minimal lateral sheering forces.


Back on topic - I found that my SV bowl is losing it's 'finish' at the bottom.  It's weird.  I'll snap a pic and post up when I get home.

My TOBS and DR Harris bowls, however, have stood up nicely without any special care.
I'd love to see that pic. Hopefully the erosion won't accelerate the deterioration of the bowl. I've noticed that wood can sometimes decay quicker if one area of its surface is noticeably damaged.

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 01-12-2016, 04:48 PM
#16
  • kav
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Im'sh'allah- If I win the Atlas Bronze set I have a Tibetan singing bowl to use as bowl. Sandalwood is a pretty durable wood. An unseen problem are unseasoned woods
being tossed across continents without time to adjust to the new climes. This is why many eastern carvings such as Buddhas or Garuda Birds have deep cracks. My basswood SDM has warped in  delightfull Daliesq  asymmetry.

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 01-12-2016, 04:52 PM
#17
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(01-12-2016, 03:57 PM)garyg Wrote:
(01-12-2016, 03:43 PM)NeoXerxes Wrote:
(01-12-2016, 03:29 PM)garyg Wrote: I only last year received the SV wooden bowl, so far it seems pretty study, but can't testify to longevity.  That one presents as well made I'll say.  

Wood bowls will not last like stone or glass, obviously unless they are dropped, but I have a couple wood bowls (AoS and Mama Bear's) that go back almost a decade and seem fine.  Probably the most practical bowls are the aluminum ones, but Cade soap doesn't cut it for me and the C&S machined aluminum bowls, while tres chic, are ungodly expensive.  
I wouldn't fret too much over it, unless you leave it soaking in a sink it should last a while

Thanks for the reply! This is helpful. I suppose I shouldn't have anything to worry about since I tend to air dry soaps without the cap on after every shave. Hopefully lathering directly from the bowl won't lead to any deterioration of the wood.

I use the wooden bowl to load the brush  then face lather.  I always dump any of the water on the soap puck & let them go overnight with the top off, then replace and move to the next soap after it's had a chance to dry.  If I was moving daily I'd likely forego a wooden bowl, but then probably would be using a shave stick anyway.
Your approach sounds exactly like my normal routine. I always dump off excess water and am careful to leave off caps for at least 24 hours. If this isn't enough then I'm screwed. I really wish SV had elected to sell their new barbershop tins to non-barbers. It's rather annoying that they are keeping it exclusive because the tins are so much more appealing to me than the wood.

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 01-12-2016, 09:43 PM
#18
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I own 5 Saponifico Varesino soaps. 4 are in the wooden bowls. I make sure to empty as much water out after blooming as I can, then leave it to dry. I never use the same soap two days in a row so it gets plenty of time to dry. In fact don't use any soap more often than every 2-3 weeks.
So far the wood bowls hold up just fine.

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 01-12-2016, 09:45 PM
#19
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(01-12-2016, 09:43 PM)CHSeifert Wrote: I own 5 Saponifico Varesino soaps. 4 are in the wooden bowls. I make sure to empty as much water out after blooming as I can, then leave it to dry. I never use the same soap two days in a row so it gets plenty of time to dry. In fact don't use any soap more often than every 2-3 weeks.
So far the wood bowls hold up just fine.

Since you have dedicated bowls for almost every soap, do you take them out of the plastic containers and put them directly into the bowl or do you keep them in the plastic so you can switch them out easier?

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 01-12-2016, 10:20 PM
#20
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My SV bowl has begun to show some weathering, but I think it's structurally fine. I'll take a pic next time it gets used.

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