04-15-2016, 07:07 PM
#1
User Info
Can the Ever Ready 1924 razor use a Feather FHS 10 blade without modification, or does it require a spine?  Does anyone here know?

10 176
Reply
 04-17-2016, 12:32 AM
#2
User Info
I think many of the more aggressive vintage razors, like the 1924, might benefit from the smoothness of a Feather blade. At any rate, very few vintage SE guys have chosen to experiment with these. It would be worth the effort, IMHO, as the majority of OneBlade (which natively take the FHS) owners prefer the Feather over the GEM.

That said, it has been reported elsewhere that the Feather FHS spineless blade cannot be used in a 1924 without adding a spine to it. Just de-spine a GEM, and put it on the Feather, and load into the 1924. If you end up preferring the Feather, you should be able to use the same spine over and over again on multiple Feather blades until the crease on the spine weakens or cracks.

If you end up trying this out, please report your findings!

2 308
Reply
 04-17-2016, 05:57 PM
#3
User Info
(04-17-2016, 12:32 AM)Len Wrote: I think many of the more aggressive vintage razors, like the 1924, might benefit from the smoothness of a Feather blade. At any rate, very few vintage SE guys have chosen to experiment with these. It would be worth the effort, IMHO, as the majority of OneBlade (which natively take the FHS) owners prefer the Feather over the GEM.

That said, it has been reported elsewhere that the Feather FHS spineless blade cannot be used in a 1924 without adding a spine to it. Just de-spine a GEM, and put it on the Feather, and load into the 1924. If you end up preferring the Feather, you should be able to use the same spine over and over again on multiple Feather blades until the crease on the spine weakens or cracks.

If you end up trying this out, please report your findings!
Thank you for your info.  I don't think I'll go to the trouble though.  I'm actually quite satisfied with the shave I get from the Gems.  It's just the loading of the blade that is difficult.  The razor was built before Gem blades had cut-outs on the sides (for the MicroMatic), and those cut-outs are located exactly where the blade guides are.  The Feather blade doesn't have those cut-outs, but since it is more expensive, harder to find, reputedly shorter lived, and requires modification, I think I'll not bother with it.  But thank you again for sharing your knowledge.

R. O. Y.

10 176
Reply
 04-17-2016, 06:32 PM
#4
  • pbrmhl
  • Active Member
  • Seattle
User Info
(04-17-2016, 05:57 PM)Roy Otto Yor Wrote:
(04-17-2016, 12:32 AM)Len Wrote: I think many of the more aggressive vintage razors, like the 1924, might benefit from the smoothness of a Feather blade. At any rate, very few vintage SE guys have chosen to experiment with these. It would be worth the effort, IMHO, as the majority of OneBlade (which natively take the FHS) owners prefer the Feather over the GEM.

That said, it has been reported elsewhere that the Feather FHS spineless blade cannot be used in a 1924 without adding a spine to it. Just de-spine a GEM, and put it on the Feather, and load into the 1924. If you end up preferring the Feather, you should be able to use the same spine over and over again on multiple Feather blades until the crease on the spine weakens or cracks.

If you end up trying this out, please report your findings!
Thank you for your info.  I don't think I'll go to the trouble though.  I'm actually quite satisfied with the shave I get from the Gems.  It's just the loading of the blade that is difficult.  The razor was built before Gem blades had cut-outs on the sides (for the MicroMatic), and those cut-outs are located exactly where the blade guides are.  The Feather blade doesn't have those cut-outs, but since it is more expensive, harder to find, reputedly shorter lived, and requires modification, I think I'll not bother with it.  But thank you again for sharing your knowledge.

R. O. Y.


Roy, I'm a bit confused (not an unusual occurrence). I use a Gem blade in my 1924 (and 1914 and MMOC) without issue. What am I missing? Is it that the 1924 blade guides don't pull the blade closer to the base plate, as was intended?

5 316
Reply
 04-17-2016, 08:34 PM
#5
User Info
(04-17-2016, 06:32 PM)pbrmhl Wrote:
(04-17-2016, 05:57 PM)Roy Otto Yor Wrote:
(04-17-2016, 12:32 AM)Len Wrote: I think many of the more aggressive vintage razors, like the 1924, might benefit from the smoothness of a Feather blade. At any rate, very few vintage SE guys have chosen to experiment with these. It would be worth the effort, IMHO, as the majority of OneBlade (which natively take the FHS) owners prefer the Feather over the GEM.

That said, it has been reported elsewhere that the Feather FHS spineless blade cannot be used in a 1924 without adding a spine to it. Just de-spine a GEM, and put it on the Feather, and load into the 1924. If you end up preferring the Feather, you should be able to use the same spine over and over again on multiple Feather blades until the crease on the spine weakens or cracks.

If you end up trying this out, please report your findings!
Thank you for your info.  I don't think I'll go to the trouble though.  I'm actually quite satisfied with the shave I get from the Gems.  It's just the loading of the blade that is difficult.  The razor was built before Gem blades had cut-outs on the sides (for the MicroMatic), and those cut-outs are located exactly where the blade guides are.  The Feather blade doesn't have those cut-outs, but since it is more expensive, harder to find, reputedly shorter lived, and requires modification, I think I'll not bother with it.  But thank you again for sharing your knowledge.

R. O. Y.


Roy, I'm a bit confused (not an unusual occurrence). I use a Gem blade in my 1924 (and 1914 and MMOC) without issue. What am I missing? Is it that the 1924 blade guides don't pull the blade closer to the base plate, as was intended?
Because of the cut-outs, the blade guides don't secure the blade laterally, and will allow it to slide off kilter to one side or the other.  
So if extra care isn't taken loading the blade, it can end up resting on only one blade hook instead of both, exposing one corner of the blade.  
Have I made myself understood, or are you still confused?

10 176
Reply
 04-20-2016, 06:14 AM
#6
User Info
Yes, the '24 does take a bit more care in positioning the blade before the top is snapped closed. However, once in position and the top is shut there should not be any further lateral movement. If there is then there is something else wrong with the razor.

31 8,055
Reply
 04-20-2016, 09:30 AM
#7
  • pbrmhl
  • Active Member
  • Seattle
User Info
(04-17-2016, 08:34 PM)Roy Otto Yor Wrote:
(04-17-2016, 06:32 PM)pbrmhl Wrote:
(04-17-2016, 05:57 PM)Roy Otto Yor Wrote: Thank you for your info.  I don't think I'll go to the trouble though.  I'm actually quite satisfied with the shave I get from the Gems.  It's just the loading of the blade that is difficult.  The razor was built before Gem blades had cut-outs on the sides (for the MicroMatic), and those cut-outs are located exactly where the blade guides are.  The Feather blade doesn't have those cut-outs, but since it is more expensive, harder to find, reputedly shorter lived, and requires modification, I think I'll not bother with it.  But thank you again for sharing your knowledge.

R. O. Y.


Roy, I'm a bit confused (not an unusual occurrence). I use a Gem blade in my 1924 (and 1914 and MMOC) without issue. What am I missing? Is it that the 1924 blade guides don't pull the blade closer to the base plate, as was intended?
Because of the cut-outs, the blade guides don't secure the blade laterally, and will allow it to slide off kilter to one side or the other.  
So if extra care isn't taken loading the blade, it can end up resting on only one blade hook instead of both, exposing one corner of the blade.  
Have I made myself understood, or are you still confused?

I got it. Thanks!

5 316
Reply
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)