08-19-2012, 02:51 AM
#1
  • Leon
  • Active Member
  • Porto, Portugal
User Info
Hi gents,

Here's a list of the different grades Semogue currently uses to make their wonderful boar brushes:

  1. Premium 90% tops
  2. Best 90% tops
  3. Extra 75% tops
  4. Super 70% tops
  5. Special Grade 90% tops

Now, let me explain the main differences between them.

First, the meaning of "percentage tops". This measures the amount in percentage of bristles that have the full length. The bigger the percentage, the more homogeneous and compact the knot feels because most of the tips are at the same level.

The Premium grade appears in the iconic 1305. Following the success of the 1305, some asked me if it was possible to have the same knot, but in a acrylic handle, so the 830 was born. This grade usually has a dyed band, but it appears undyed in the 2000 mixed with other grade hair.

The Best is also a hair that gets great remarks. It appears on the 1460, 1470, and 1250 brushes. It's undyed. Owners of these brushes speak highly of these knots, having great amount of lather easily, usually in bowl, but it's just as efficient directly used in the face.

The Extra grade is scratchier than other grades, but over the time will soften a bit. It appears in the 1520, 1438 and 620 brushes. It's also used in the 1800 mixed with Premium 90. This boar grade provides good backbone and having an extra scratchiness is often chosen by the face lathering fans. This is usually dyed.

The Super grade is used in the 2000 knot mixed with the Premium.

The Special grade appeared first in the 2009 LE. Later, some more of this boar grade was stocked and eventually turned to a new regular production brush: the Semogue Owners Club. It's an undyed bristle with a very high quality. Equally soft as the Premium and good backbone provides good lathering ability in both bowl and face lathering.

It's hard to decide what's the very best grade. Both the Premium and Special grades have many fans.

Any questions, let me know. I'll try my best to answer them.

Enjoy!

I will add this list made by Anthony (Tonality).Thanks a lot for it.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=5847]

4 313
Reply
 08-19-2012, 02:58 AM
#2
  • Dave
  • Moderator Emeritus
User Info
Thanks Bruno. This is very informative. I had no idea the 830 had the same hair as the 1305. I'm guessing that the Yearly Limited Editions and the SOC Boars have the Premium as well? In the past, when I had a 620 and an 830 I thought they had the same knot. I' surprised to see that the 620 has the extra grade of hair.

116 3,804
Reply
 08-19-2012, 03:33 AM
#3
  • Leon
  • Active Member
  • Porto, Portugal
User Info
That's right Dave, The LE have the Premium grades.

I'll edit the first post to add some info about the SOC.

4 313
Reply
 08-19-2012, 03:40 AM
#4
  • Dave
  • Moderator Emeritus
User Info
To me there is no finer boar brush the world over than the SOC Boar. Perfect knot and perfect handle in Ash or Cherry wood.

116 3,804
Reply
 08-19-2012, 05:06 AM
#5
User Info
Thanks for the info Bruno,
I received my first Semogue last week and have been enjoying it since. I was wondering if all the brushes had the same grade of boar and was about to ask when I spotted this post. Talk about perfect timing. I do have a question about how to store the brush after using it. I think the wet shave world is divided on whether to hang the brush upside down or just set it on it's base to dry. I have the 1460, the painted wooden handle. How do you store your's after use?

Thanks,
Alan

2 62
Reply
 08-19-2012, 05:51 AM
#6
User Info
Thank you Bruno for a detailed and extremely informative journey through the Semogue boar grades lineup. In my opinion, Semogue makes the best boar brushes in the world.

Could you provide a similar description of the badger hair grades that Semogue uses in their badger brushes? And what are the boar and badger grades used in the TSN 2112 LE brush?

0 3,341
Reply
 08-19-2012, 06:16 AM
#7
  • Johnny
  • Super Moderator
  • Wausau, Wisconsin, USA
User Info
Thanks Bruno. I think I will sticky this for a while so it does not get lost.

173 23,500
Reply
 08-19-2012, 06:16 AM
#8
User Info
(08-19-2012, 05:51 AM)jaguar Wrote: Thank you Bruno for a detailed and extremely informative journey through the Semogue boar grades lineup. In my opinion, Semogue makes the best boar brushes in the world.

Could you provide a similar description of the badger hair grades that Semogue uses in their badger brushes? And what are the boar and badger grades used in the TSN 2112 LE brush?


+1 I am also curious about this and the ratio of boar to badger.

9 333
Reply
 08-19-2012, 06:18 AM
#9
  • Johnny
  • Super Moderator
  • Wausau, Wisconsin, USA
User Info
I don't think any of us will be around to experience the 2112 brush.Biggrin

173 23,500
Reply
 08-19-2012, 08:24 AM
#10
  • beartrap
  • Resident Цирюльник
  • Southern California
User Info
I wanna 2112 brush! At least a prototype Biggrin

88 4,233
Reply
 08-19-2012, 08:53 AM
#11
  • gijames
  • Mile High Soldier
  • TN, USA
User Info
(08-19-2012, 08:24 AM)beartrap Wrote: I wanna 2112 brush! At least a prototype Biggrin

after the apocalypse (you may choose which one World War XX or Global Warming or etc..), there is a new beast harvested for their coat... it is as tall as the body of a horse with a mane and tail like such, with the head similar to a boar, and the body shape of a badger... the hair is undetermined at this point Biggrin

9 1,684
Reply
 08-19-2012, 09:41 AM
#12
User Info
Bruno, obrigado pelo a informacao, amigo.
Thanks for the info.

75 20,883
Reply
 08-19-2012, 10:45 AM
#13
  • Teiste
  • Moderator Emeritus
  • Salt Lake City,UT
User Info
Thanks a lot,Bruno!
Now there is info about the differences of these boar hair grades.
Im gonna move this thread to the shaving 101 section.

86 7,123
Reply
 08-19-2012, 01:43 PM
#14
  • Leon
  • Active Member
  • Porto, Portugal
User Info
(08-19-2012, 05:06 AM)Alan Wrote: I do have a question about how to store the brush after using it. I think the wet shave world is divided on whether to hang the brush upside down or just set it on it's base to dry. I have the 1460, the painted wooden handle. How do you store your's after use?

Hi Alan,

I store my brushes upside down after being thoroughly cleansed with plenty of water. First let the water do the work of removing the soap residues, then let gravity remove the water residues.


(08-19-2012, 05:51 AM)jaguar Wrote: Could you provide a similar description of the badger hair grades that Semogue uses in their badger brushes? And what are the boar and badger grades used in the TSN 2112 LE brush?

The Semogue badger hair grades are: Pure, Best, Silvertip and Finest (the 2 band). In the LE2010 we had the luck of getting some very special silvertip, I'd call it "Special Silvertip". (Mental note: use the LE10 in next shave)

The TSN LE brush is made of a mix of Premium boar and Finest badger. I don't know what's the ratio. I only know it uses plenty of badger hair, unlike other brands mixed badger that use the "collaring", i.e, use a boar knot and put some badger hair around it.

4 313
Reply
 08-20-2012, 03:07 AM
#15
User Info
Thank-you for this information. I'd often see people discussing brushes using "best" and "super", and now I know exactly what kind of hair they are referring to. Now I just need to learn about knots and their sizes, lofts, etc.

1 168
Reply
 08-20-2012, 03:21 AM
#16
User Info
Thanks for the info! Very helpful

9 333
Reply
 08-20-2012, 05:04 AM
#17
  • Leon
  • Active Member
  • Porto, Portugal
User Info
(08-20-2012, 03:07 AM)Grant_Atwood Wrote: Thank-you for this information. I'd often see people discussing brushes using "best" and "super", and now I know exactly what kind of hair they are referring to. Now I just need to learn about knots and their sizes, lofts, etc.

Some brushmakers use "Super", some use "Finest".

In terms of badger grades there are no rules, the brushmaker can make up a new badger hair grade if he wishes. Just look at the "DO1" grade Shavemac has. Some say its near the Selected Silvertip in the Semogue LE10, but not quite as good Biggrin

4 313
Reply
 08-22-2012, 07:04 PM
#18
  • Mynorx
  • Active Member
  • Southern California
User Info
thanks for the info. I've always wanted the 1305.

1 265
Reply
 08-23-2012, 03:29 AM
#19
  • Leon
  • Active Member
  • Porto, Portugal
User Info
(08-22-2012, 07:04 PM)Mynorx Wrote: thanks for the info. I've always wanted the 1305.

The 1305 is the "iconic" Semogue brush. It's unique in many ways: an "Old School" painted handle, top knot stuffed with Premium boar and ergonomically perfect.

4 313
Reply
 08-23-2012, 02:08 PM
#20
User Info
Thanks Bruno,

I"m sure that you've typed more than a few emails answering questions about bristle grade.

With the receipt of my Shave Nook LE 2012 brush one hour ago (due to vacation, not USPS delay), I now have seven Semogue boars. They all have unique qualities and in my opinion rally hit their strides after a few months of regular use.

I don't have any extra grade brushes yet, but will pick up a 1438 some day simply because along with the 1305 is has the best looking paint job. Cool

3 452
Reply
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)