06-02-2017, 10:44 AM
#1
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[Image: lUjGaep.jpg]
[Image: BWdSEpa.jpg]

Just got their email promoting this new release.
Although I've no direct experience with this cream, I think the VE fragrance is excellent.

It’s primarily soap-based:
Aqua (Water), Stearic Acid, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycerin, Potasium Hydroxide, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Peg-1550 Distearate Hydroxyethylcellulose, Parfum (Fragrance), Caprylyl Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Phenoxyethanol, Menthol, Hexylene Glycol, Allantoin, Limonene, Saccharide Isomerate, Alpha-isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Cinnamomum Camphora (Camphor) Bark Oil, Evernia Prunistri (Oakmoss) Extract, Citric Acid, Citral, Sodium Cltrate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Potassium Sorbate, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture, Sodium Benzoate, Butylene Glycol., Sodium Lactate, Carbomer, Coco-glucoside, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

For a 100 mL tube, the price is *ahem* 80 USD.

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 06-02-2017, 10:53 AM
#2
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This looks mighty interesting....

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 06-02-2017, 12:22 PM
#3
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UPDATE:
Per FM Customer Service, it doesn’t produce much of a lather (which is surprising as it contains soap and a couple of other surfactants). Could be a good travel option. Otherwise, for me, it's a pass, if indeed it’s non-lathering/brushless.

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 06-02-2017, 12:32 PM
#4
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Damn...

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 06-02-2017, 12:45 PM
#5
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I know, right?

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 06-02-2017, 12:47 PM
#6
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 06-02-2017, 12:54 PM
#7
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...perhaps a soapmaker might offer some insight here.

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 06-02-2017, 03:49 PM
#8
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But... but... making the lather is half the fun! :/

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 06-02-2017, 06:15 PM
#9
  • MaxP
  • Senior Member
  • Madison, WI
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Hmmm
Eighty bucks and no lather? I think not for me.

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 06-03-2017, 07:23 AM
#10
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[quote pid='806155' dateline='1496436867']
ask4Edge...perhaps a soapmaker might offer some insight here.
[/quote]


Hi,

This is a shaving cream - not a shaving soap - so it would typically contain preservatives because of it's high water content. But since I only make soaps, I can only compare it on that basis.


These ingredients are typically found in many soaps - they include oils, lye, aloe juice and common fragrance ingredients: 

Stearic Acid, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycerin, Potasium Hydroxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Menthol, Limonene, Linalool, Cinnamomum Camphora (Camphor) Bark Oil, Evernia Prunistri (Oakmoss) Extract

Here are the rest of the ingredients and their common functions:

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate - hair conditioning agent, antistatic, surfactant, foaming agent 

Peg-1550 Distearate Hydroxyethylcellulose - thickener, binder, emulsifier, stabilizer

Caprylyl Glycol - conditioner, moisturizer and preservative

Phenoxyethanol - preservative

Hexylene Glycol - solvent 

Allantoin - skin conditioning agent

Saccharide Isomerate - water binding agent, emollient

Alpha-isomethyl Ionone - fragrance ingredient

Citric Acid - chelating agent, fragrance ingredient, ph adjuster

Sodium Cltrate - preservative, antioxidant, ph adjuster

Ascorbyl Palmitate - antioxidant

Potassium Sorbate - preservative, antifungal

Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture - skin conditioning agent

Sodium Benzoate - fragrance ingredient, preservative

Butylene Glycol - fragrance ingredient, skin conditioning, viscosity controller


Sodium Lactate - buffering agent, moisturizer - it is used in soaps to produce a harder bar

Carbomer - thickening agent, viscosity controller

Coco-glucoside - surfactant, foaming agent

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 - skin anti-inflammatory

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 - collagen booster

Hope this helps

Peter

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 06-03-2017, 09:32 AM
#11
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(06-02-2017, 06:15 PM)MaxP Wrote: Hmmm
Eighty bucks and no lather? I think not for me.


Agreed.

Once again I'm reminded why I now for two decades have settled by this rule of thumb: I stick to buying the product each company excels in, which 99/100 is the product that made the company famous in the first place.

Examples

Frederic Malle: Fragrances
Miyabi: Kitchen knives
Mauviel: Kitchen pans and pots
Castle Forbes: Shaving cream

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 06-03-2017, 10:58 AM
#12
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Thank you for the information, Peter. 
Do you see any reason (ingredient/s) why it might not lather? (KOH is pretty high on the list; and there are multiple surfactants.)

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 06-03-2017, 11:17 AM
#13
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That scent inspired me to create my Black Vetiver. It is a great scent. A great scent. Very expensive though.

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 06-03-2017, 11:32 AM
#14
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(06-03-2017, 10:58 AM)ask4Edge Wrote: Thank you for the information, Peter. 
Do you see any reason (ingredient/s) why it might not lather? (KOH is pretty high on the list; and there are multiple surfactants.)

You're welcome. The ingredients that it contains which make traditional shaving lather are the stearic acid, coconut oil, glycerin and potassium hydroxide. My guess is the added surfactants don't help; instead they may create airy bubbles like shampoo or bar soap as opposed to stable dense bubbles. 
 
And then there are a large number of ingredients that have nothing to do with generating good lather. Ingredients that don't contribute to lather aren't always "lather-neutral" -  in other words they can degrade lather. It's a delicate balance.

Peter

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 06-03-2017, 11:42 AM
#15
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Thanks, again, Peter.

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 06-03-2017, 02:20 PM
#16
  • Mouser
  • Senior Member
  • Forest City, Florida U.S.A.
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(06-03-2017, 11:17 AM)WetShavingProducts Wrote: That scent inspired me to create my Black Vetiver. It is a great scent. A great scent. Very expensive though.

Black Vetiver Lee? I cant find that on your site.

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 06-03-2017, 04:10 PM
#17
  • Quando
  • Senior Member
  • Somewhere far-away, from Home
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(06-02-2017, 10:44 AM)ask4Edge Wrote: Just got their email promoting this new release.
...

For a 100 mL tube, the price is *ahem* 80 USD.

(06-02-2017, 12:22 PM)ask4Edge Wrote: UPDATE:
Per FM Customer Service, it doesn’t produce much of a lather (which is surprising as it contains soap and a couple of other surfactants). Could be a good travel option. Otherwise, for me, it's a pass, if indeed it’s non-lathering/brushless.

(06-02-2017, 06:15 PM)MaxP Wrote: Hmmm
Eighty bucks and no lather?  I think not for me.

(06-03-2017, 09:32 AM)CHSeifert Wrote: Agreed.

I am glad I have companions in thinking this is outrageous.  I decided, a long time ago, that some soap makers/cream makers were simply after my money.   I have no interest is using shaving cream as a status symbol.  How insecure can someone possibly be?  A nice aftershave?  Sure, that is the same as cologne, EdP, etc.:  Another fragrance option.

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 06-03-2017, 07:29 PM
#18
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(06-03-2017, 02:20 PM)Mouser Wrote:
(06-03-2017, 11:17 AM)WetShavingProducts Wrote: That scent inspired me to create my Black Vetiver. It is a great scent. A great scent. Very expensive though.

Black Vetiver Lee? I cant find that on your site.

Soon. Check back in 2 weeks. Or wait for the email.

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 06-03-2017, 09:26 PM
#19
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I imagine the price is a conscious decision to protect the positioning of the brand. It may be a good product too despite the lack of lathering proficiency - but even if it's a fantastic product the price isn't based on its performance or to compete with most of the market.

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 06-03-2017, 10:25 PM
#20
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(06-03-2017, 09:26 PM)scritchnscrub Wrote: I imagine the price is a conscious decision to protect the positioning of the brand. It may be a good product too despite the lack of lathering proficiency - but even if it's a fantastic product the price isn't based on its performance or to compete with most of the market.


Agreed.

Even Malle perfumes are overpriced in some people's opinions (I think several of his fragrances are rather ordinary, but a few are wonderful though)

It's all about living up to a brand name.

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