07-11-2017, 09:01 PM
#1
  • SCOV
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  • Minnesota
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I have a Charcoal Goods Brass handle and level 2 head plus just ordered a Copper handle.  All in the antique finish.  My goal is to keep the antique finish.

Website says "clear coat immediately upon receiving your razor".  So my question - what clear coat should I use?

Thanks

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 07-11-2017, 09:08 PM
#2
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Renaissance Wax is what I used for mine. You can find it online for around $15


~Jesse~

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 07-12-2017, 05:54 AM
#3
  • SCOV
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(07-11-2017, 09:08 PM)lestorfreemon01 Wrote: Renaissance Wax is what I used for mine. You can find it online for around $15


~Jesse~


Thanks. I thought a clear coat was needed to avoid any change in the antique color/process.

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 07-12-2017, 06:13 AM
#4
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(07-12-2017, 05:54 AM)SCOV Wrote:
(07-11-2017, 09:08 PM)lestorfreemon01 Wrote: Renaissance Wax is what I used for mine. You can find it online for around $15


~Jesse~


Thanks. I thought a clear coat was needed to avoid any change in the antique color/process.

Clear coating just means you don't have to keep applying wax, a friend of mine dips his in olive oil after and says that works too. Brass lacquer would do the the job too.

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 07-12-2017, 07:01 AM
#5
  • Entasis
  • Atop the Razor's Edge
  • Southern California
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You can review this thread from a forum where they deal with said issues: Clear coating brass, copper and bronze furniture, sculpture, and jewelry

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 07-18-2017, 08:48 AM
#6
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(07-12-2017, 06:13 AM)iShave Wrote:
(07-12-2017, 05:54 AM)SCOV Wrote:
(07-11-2017, 09:08 PM)lestorfreemon01 Wrote: Renaissance Wax is what I used for mine. You can find it online for around $15


~Jesse~


Thanks. I thought a clear coat was needed to avoid any change in the antique color/process.

Clear coating just means you don't have to keep applying wax, a friend of mine dips his in olive oil after and says that works too. Brass lacquer would do the the job too.

So I've got the antique brass coming to and I'd like to maintain the finish. My question is can you use both the Renaisssance Wax and then do a brass lacquer coat or is it one or the other. 
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

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 07-18-2017, 10:19 AM
#7
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(07-18-2017, 08:48 AM)Wanderer66 Wrote:
(07-12-2017, 06:13 AM)iShave Wrote:
(07-12-2017, 05:54 AM)SCOV Wrote: Thanks. I thought a clear coat was needed to avoid any change in the antique color/process.

Clear coating just means you don't have to keep applying wax, a friend of mine dips his in olive oil after and says that works too. Brass lacquer would do the the job too.

So I've got the antique brass coming to and I'd like to maintain the finish. My question is can you use both the Renaisssance Wax and then do a brass lacquer coat or is it one or the other. 
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

One or the other is all you need, if you lacquer it it needs to be done right away, don't touch the razor with your hands as you don't want the oils on you skin on the razor before lacquering it.

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 07-18-2017, 11:45 AM
#8
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(07-18-2017, 10:19 AM)iShave Wrote:
(07-18-2017, 08:48 AM)Wanderer66 Wrote:
(07-12-2017, 06:13 AM)iShave Wrote: Clear coating just means you don't have to keep applying wax, a friend of mine dips his in olive oil after and says that works too. Brass lacquer would do the the job too.

So I've got the antique brass coming to and I'd like to maintain the finish. My question is can you use both the Renaisssance Wax and then do a brass lacquer coat or is it one or the other. 
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

One or the other is all you need, if you lacquer it it needs to be done right away, don't touch the razor with your hands as you don't want the oils on you skin on the razor before lacquering it.

Thanks for the heads up mine was just shipped out today so I better order the products I'll need asap!

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 07-18-2017, 11:52 AM
#9
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Might be a good idea to put something like a qtip in the threads so you don't gunk them up. Then when it's all dried put a drop of clipper oil or something in there.

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 07-18-2017, 03:09 PM
#10
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(07-18-2017, 11:52 AM)bakerbarber Wrote: Might be a good idea to put something like a qtip in the threads so you don't gunk them up. Then when it's all dried put a drop of clipper oil or something in there.

Thanks for the tip I'll do it as soon as I get it. I know I'll be tempted to use it but preserving the Antique finish is more important to I'll make sure I'm BBS when I get it. Lol

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 07-18-2017, 03:54 PM
#11
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I hate to post this and leave it out here unresolved, but...

He puts Renaissance Wax on it before he ships it. Would, and I'm not sure, that be an issue with spray lacquer adhesion?

I know you want it to be the same as when you get it for as long as possible and I would like to see you get it done.

I can't think of a way to get the wax off without affecting the finish though.

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 07-18-2017, 04:01 PM
#12
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(07-18-2017, 03:54 PM)bakerbarber Wrote: I hate to post this and leave it out here unresolved, but...

He puts Renaissance Wax on it before he ships it. Would, and I'm not sure, that be an issue with spray lacquer adhesion?

I know you want it to be the same as when you get it for as long as possible and I would like to see you get it done.

I can't think of a way to get the wax off without affecting the finish though.

Good point and it makes perfect sense. I"m going to play it safe and get in touch with Brian and ask his opinion on the wax coating and what he would recommend to keep the antique finish pristine in the future. 

Thank you!  Thumbsup

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 07-20-2017, 07:07 PM
#13
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So there's been a lot of discussions on different methods, techniques and which products to use for those of us that want to maintain the original look of these amazingly handsome brass razors. So I messaged Brian as I said I would and in an earlier post to ask his opinion on what he suggested so here is his reply below. 

Hi Frank,


 Feel free to post this in it's entirety or ask more follow up. As more of my razors make it out into the wild there become various opinions and desires on how guys want them to look. The antique patina finish itself is like tarnish on silver or rust on steel. It's a caused by a chemical reaction and creates a very thin layer over the base metal; brass or copper in my case. As you handle the razor and use it, that thin layer wears off in some spots and remains mostly in the recesses and areas that you don't touch. At that point the razor finish won't change much and because we all use our razors differently, they all look unique. 

Many guys really like how the razor looks when it first arrives to them and want to stabilize that. I personally recommend spraying the razor with a thin coat of acrylic lacquer and this will create both an oxygen barrier and a abrasion resistance barrier so the finish is effectively sealed. Permalac, Krylon, and Rustoleum all have decent spray lacquers. Just remember to spray on a warm day and do a very thin coat. You can always add more but you can't get rid of it if you create drips. The finished layer is so thin that it will not affect the blade gap, again, unless you cause it to pool or drip.

Once I'm in the new shop I do plan on setting up a little air brushing booth where I can add 'sealing' as something that can be done during the ordering process on a order by order basis. The biggest issue is temperature control! You need it to be 70 degrees or above or the stuff just doesn't spray well; it splatters or goes on thick. My current shop has no climate control and so I have not offered to clear coat for anyone as it is not always warm enough to spray and cure the sealer. Some guys also might consider spraying the razor after using it for a month or two so that you get something that looks very personal before you seal in the look.

With regards to fingerprints. Yes, this is more of an issue with the bright brass or copper finishes. They will show fingerprints and stains pretty quickly, but you can of course wipe them off with metal polish. The antique finish doesn't really show a fingerprint as the antique finish has already reacted with the metal in that area and your skin oils can't affect it anymore. The antique patina is technically a protective layer already.

So if you do plan on spraying the razor, put on some nitrile gloves and give it a little wash with some dish soap. After it dries you can give it a coat of spray lacquer. That should keep it looking like the day you unboxed it for many years.

Personally, I just use Renaissance wax once every few months on all of my shaving gear. After each shave, I rinse the razor, and 'blot' it dry with a towel. I'll even leave the blade in because I'm lazy and usually shave with the same razor 2-3 days in a row. I only clean the razor with a brush and dish soap if it starts to build up soap scum. Some of you are very aggressive cleaners and that does inadvertently contribute to removing the antique patina layer if you are wiping the razor with a towel constantly or maintaining a strict cleaning regimen with an old toothbrush. The patina has worn off very little on many of my razors since I only clean them as needed and 'blot' them instead of 'wipe' them dry, but everyone is going to be different and there really isn't a wrong way to go about it.

Also, If you do have a razor with an antique patina finish on it, don't use a metal polish to clean it. Metal polish will just wipe the patina off and you'll get a brightly polished razor. I've had a couple people do this by accident. But in general, relax and try to enjoy the special characteristics of brass and copper. I can always refinish a razor for you and usually at little to no cost. Lastly, if all of this just sounds like a pain but you like your Charcoal razor consider sending it out for gold plating. Gold plating will look the same 1000 years from now as the day it gets plated. Gold reacts to nothing. However, like the old Gillettes the plating will wear down over time, but probably long after you've expired! 

hope this helps out.
~Brian





Brian Twilley - Charcoal Goods
www.charcoalgoods.com

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 07-20-2017, 07:09 PM
#14
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(07-11-2017, 09:01 PM)SCOV Wrote: I have a Charcoal Goods Brass handle and level 2 head plus just ordered a Copper handle.  All in the antique finish.  My goal is to keep the antique finish.

Website says "clear coat immediately upon receiving your razor".  So my question - what clear coat should I use?

Thanks

Posted an email I got from Brian pertaining to this thread.

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 07-20-2017, 07:18 PM
#15
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Thanks for the update!

Gold plating huh? Haha. I bet that would look amazing!

Not me though.

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 07-20-2017, 07:24 PM
#16
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(07-20-2017, 07:18 PM)bakerbarber Wrote: Thanks for the update!

Gold plating huh? Haha. I bet that would look amazing!

Not me though.

I agree it would look amazing but i like the Antique finish on mine and just want to preserve it.

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 07-20-2017, 09:19 PM
#17
  • SCOV
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(07-20-2017, 07:09 PM)Wanderer66 Wrote:
(07-11-2017, 09:01 PM)SCOV Wrote: I have a Charcoal Goods Brass handle and level 2 head plus just ordered a Copper handle.  All in the antique finish.  My goal is to keep the antique finish.

Website says "clear coat immediately upon receiving your razor".  So my question - what clear coat should I use?

Thanks

Posted an email I got from Brian pertaining to this thread.

Thanks for your response and posting.

Emailed Brian before - same basic response but your email had some additional comments (gloves, 70 degrees, etc).  I did order a spray can of Permalac - VOC at 150 and ok for interior items.  Hoping nice water cleaning will get the surface prepared.  wish my friend the painter good luck.  

My final question:  coat all 3 pieces?  The handle and base plate touching the skin obviously get the most "handling."

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 07-20-2017, 09:47 PM
#18
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(07-20-2017, 09:19 PM)SCOV Wrote:
(07-20-2017, 07:09 PM)Wanderer66 Wrote:
(07-11-2017, 09:01 PM)SCOV Wrote: I have a Charcoal Goods Brass handle and level 2 head plus just ordered a Copper handle.  All in the antique finish.  My goal is to keep the antique finish.

Website says "clear coat immediately upon receiving your razor".  So my question - what clear coat should I use?

Thanks

Posted an email I got from Brian pertaining to this thread.

Thanks for your response and posting.

Emailed Brian before - same basic response but your email had some additional comments (gloves, 70 degrees, etc).  I did order a spray can of Permalac - VOC at 150 and ok for interior items.  Hoping nice water cleaning will get the surface prepared.  wish my friend the painter good luck.  

My final question:  coat all 3 pieces?  The handle and base plate touching the skin obviously get the most "handling."

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 07-20-2017, 09:55 PM
#19
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Yeah Brian is a great guy. 

I agree I'm a little hesitant about tackling the spraying. I may get a friend of mine who's an amazing car painter to put the clear coat on. I'll show him the email and I should get it done soon. 

I bought the handle a while back when he had it in stock and I've been waiting until he made the Level 3 OC to get the head. If you totaled both together it would be $80 for the handle and $150 for the head. So $230 which in my opinion is a reasonalble price for an amazingly well machined great looking razor. I can wait to take if for a first shave.

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 07-21-2017, 05:20 AM
#20
  • SCOV
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Agree - Brian is great guy with great products and reasonable prices.  I have the Brass "stars & stripes" and Copper "twin helix" handles with Level 2 and Level 1 OC heads.  All purchased separately including some good luck.  I used the brass handle with another head for a while - i can see some "wear" changes.

Nice tips for the sealing process - looks like some skill & knowledge required.  I do not need to add "waxing" to "blade shave counting" requirements.

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