09-08-2017, 06:13 AM
#21
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(09-08-2017, 02:02 AM)merkur man Wrote:
(09-07-2017, 07:19 PM)mike_the_kraken Wrote: The reserve has been on my radar for a while. I do enjoy lanolin, which gives me pause when pursuing new soaps without it included. That said, have one tub of Latha Oceana, and one tub of classic label cologne russe - both of which perform very very well (the former has no lanolin). My problem with B&M has always been that the premium tier scents haven't done it for me when I've ordered samples. Perhaps I can give it another go.


I can understand your hesitancy in both the absence of lanolin and the inconsistency in scents. As far as scent goes, if you like the items these scents are based on, I can't imagine you not liking the soap. As for the absence of Lanolin, I think this soap is every bit as hydrating as Mike's and Mystic Waters, meaning it has excellent moisturizers in it. Give it a shot, you won't be disappointed.


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Not sure I'd put it up there with Mike's or Mystic Water, but it has very good moisturizing properties.   Shaved today with Cool and really love this soap, this scent.  If I had to make a short list of soaps to keep, this soap would definitely be on the list.

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 09-08-2017, 07:19 AM
#22
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(09-07-2017, 03:00 PM)merkur man Wrote:
(09-07-2017, 12:29 PM)kingfisher Wrote: Is it better than the original white-tub formula?


I think it is B&M's best formula to date. It's softer than the original but the lather is far superior in my opinion.


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It's an interesting ingredients list, to be sure.  I think I know why it's softer than the other soaps.  Glycerin is the second ingredient.  If the ingredients list is to be believed, there is more glycerin in the soap than there is water!  That's really something else.  

I also see that he added a foaming agent/mild detergent to the formula.  He has never included a foaming agent in any of his other formulas, to my knowledge.  I believe it's the same foaming agent that is prominent in the SV soaps, which are also very highly regarded, so it may be that inclusion of this ingredient significantly improves the performance of the lather.  

At any rate, it's a departure from his other soap formulas, to be sure.

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 09-08-2017, 10:20 AM
#23
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(09-08-2017, 05:58 AM)Nero Wrote: Sorry I just never understood hype over lanolin.

I like it, I love it, I want more of it! Seriously though - my favorite soaps all have it, are excellent daily performers, and less than 20$ a puck. It just works well for me (vs. say... a glycerin based soap which does not work well for me). Just a personal preference of mine. RE sticky in nature - I actually like this, but I also find that Pannacrema Nuavia builds to a sticky paste - even though I don't believe it contains lanolin.

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 09-08-2017, 12:15 PM
#24
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Bayside, NY
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Re: lanolin - I have no preference either way. I own and enjoy soaps with and without. Tallow on the other hand is a must. With a very few exceptions, I just don't get on with vegan soaps. ymmv.

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 09-08-2017, 02:03 PM
#25
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(09-08-2017, 12:15 PM)chazt Wrote: Re: lanolin - I have no preference either way. I own and enjoy soaps with and without. Tallow on the other hand is a must. With a very few exceptions, I just don't get on with vegan soaps. ymmv.

Same for me...

Curious about this new B+M soap...I still have several I need to work my way through though...

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 09-08-2017, 02:41 PM
#26
  • Nero
  • ACV is my new BFF
  • le montagne
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(09-08-2017, 10:20 AM)mike_the_kraken Wrote: I like it, I love it, I want more of it! Seriously though - my favorite soaps all have it

Haha!!
Ok so sometimes my body takes over and my brain watches from above without control.

I understand.
It's just so hard to accept bc it's a such a big No-No for me.

Thanks for taking it in stride Biggrin Wink

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 09-09-2017, 02:12 AM
#27
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(09-07-2017, 09:19 AM) pid=\827235' Wrote:Done.
Have to add Chiseled Face to this list above. I forgot about that. This will be my first of theirs.

[Image: bc40f414db00409a55e3d36630477afd.png]

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 09-09-2017, 09:35 AM
#28
  • evnpar
  • Emeritus
  • Portland, Oregon
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I have to agree that this is Will's best formula (and I also really enjoy Reserve aftershaves). I like the traditional scents, although I prefer Classic and Cool as I find Spice a little overpowering. I noticed that Fern and Lavender are scheduled for release, and wonder what those are like. Although I like the Glissant base, I have to agree that Reserve performs better and has a better post shave face feel. I wish some his other more traditional scents, Seville, Cheshire, and perhaps Bay Rum were available in this formula.

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 09-09-2017, 02:03 PM
#29
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Bayside, NY
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(09-09-2017, 09:35 AM)evnpar Wrote: I have to agree that this is Will's best formula (and I also really enjoy Reserve aftershaves). I like the traditional scents, although I prefer Classic and Cool as I find Spice a little overpowering. I noticed that Fern and Lavender are scheduled for release, and wonder what those are like. Although I like the Glissant base, I have to agree that Reserve performs better and has a better post shave face feel. I wish some his other more traditional scents, Seville, Cheshire, and perhaps Bay Rum were available in this formula.

Richard, on your say-so and with your encouragement, I began my continuing B&M experiment with the original Latha. I've since tried a good dozen or so scents. Truthfully, only a handful remain. Most were too intense for me. Will produces some very unique scent profiles, that's for sure. I still have a few left. Among them, my favorites are Diamond and Oceana. Don't ask me why, I just love them. I've got a lifetime's worth of unscented B&M soaps too. Will enables my appreciation of his unscented product.

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 09-09-2017, 02:37 PM
#30
  • Nero
  • ACV is my new BFF
  • le montagne
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I received my order with the Reserve Spice, and I can definitely agree with all the high praise of the performance and scent.
Very slick. Very comfortable shave. No tingle or burn during or after. Post shave is calm and looks great.
The Spice scent is very nice (a la Old Spice, maybe with extra cinnamon but no face burn, as I said) and definitely perfect for the season.

Lather is a little unorthodox but there is nothing wrong with that. I believe his soaps generally have unorthodox lather, from memory, anyway. Dense and shiny, absolutely.

Really happy I bought this.
Nathan, thank you for that little nudge to get me over the finish line. I will be buying more scents in this line, no question.

I finished with the Pinaud Virgin Island Bay Rum which was great (not sure why I didn't use my Old Spice splash, though, haha).

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 09-10-2017, 06:24 AM
#31
  • Nero
  • ACV is my new BFF
  • le montagne
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I have to update my thoughts above...

Two or three hours after I shaved, I noticed an itch on my upper-left cheek area, I gave it a scratch and maybe it tingled for a little bit but seemingly went away (in terms of a physical itch sensation).
Then maybe another hour or two later while I was washing up at the sink, I noticed in the mirror that that spot (that had the itch, above) had turned quite red and that my skin tone over the whole shaving area had a red-pink blush hue.
This morning the spot is still evident.

I don't want to give up on it, as the shave quality was EXCELLENT as I described above. .

So what I might do: spoon the top/darker layer out of the tub, then add that soap, little by little, back into the tub/remaining lighter-colored soap to mix it more evenly. I might not re-add all the soap I remove, just to be conservative.

Notice the stratification where the darker orange is at the top:

[Image: d0998bc227ac334227cd1dc1d98bf139.jpg]

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 09-10-2017, 06:30 AM
#32
  • Nero
  • ACV is my new BFF
  • le montagne
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Now in process, you can really see the stratification:

[Image: da077d3bbcd280ecf7f321114c743945.jpg]

[Image: 3697ce949579d1c34bf59185f2fa72a3.jpg]

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 09-10-2017, 06:36 AM
#33
  • nikos.a
  • Senior Member
  • Athens, Greece
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(09-10-2017, 06:24 AM)Nero Wrote: So what I might do: spoon the top/darker layer out of the tub, then add that soap, little by little, back into the tub/remaining lighter-colored soap to mix it more evenly. I might not re-add all the soap I remove, just to be conservative.

Matt, I don't think that this will help. If an ingredient causes this irritation, removing a few layers won't change anything. It will still be there.

"Discontinue use, if irritation occurs", as they say.

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 09-10-2017, 06:44 AM
#34
  • nikos.a
  • Senior Member
  • Athens, Greece
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Also, do you "bloom" your soaps? Soft soaps absorb more water than others and if you do that, they need a couple days to stay open in order to dry out. Looking at the last pictures, I'd say that the soap absorbed a lot of water and didn't have the time to dry out, that's why it looks different on the upper and the inner layers.

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 09-10-2017, 06:44 AM
#35
  • Nero
  • ACV is my new BFF
  • le montagne
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I decided to re-mix everything, judging by scent along the process (adding little by little) and milling/whipping it with this kabob stick.

Next, I'll let it cure (a day at a time) like this before I smash it down to a smooth surface. Keeping it like this will help it air out/evaporate more than if I smash it down now.

[Image: 8373cad10b40f11fb67362ae06855e4c.jpg]

See the lack of stratification now:

[Image: b0c115b8a8841fa705bd448449ecf7fb.jpg]

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 09-10-2017, 06:52 AM
#36
  • Nero
  • ACV is my new BFF
  • le montagne
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(09-10-2017, 06:36 AM)nikos.a Wrote:
(09-10-2017, 06:24 AM)Nero Wrote: So what I might do: spoon the top/darker layer out of the tub, then add that soap, little by little, back into the tub/remaining lighter-colored soap to mix it more evenly. I might not re-add all the soap I remove, just to be conservative.

Matt, I don't think that this will help. If an ingredient causes this irritation, removing a few layers won't change anything. It will still be there.

"Discontinue use, if irritation occurs", as they say.


Hi Nick! I just want to give it a shot, because I believe that dark layer has the spicier fragrance components (in fact, I just verified that during my process... the dark orange had all the spice and the white had the soapy/floral), and I have sensitive skin compared to most people.
Since I used the spiciest portion of the soap, I just believe it will get better if the concentration drops, by mixing it evenly.

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 09-10-2017, 06:54 AM
#37
  • Nero
  • ACV is my new BFF
  • le montagne
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(09-10-2017, 06:44 AM)nikos.a Wrote: Also, do you "bloom" your soaps? Soft soaps absorb more water than others and if you do that, they need a couple days to stay open in order to dry out. Looking at the last pictures, I'd say that the soap absorbed a lot of water and didn't have the time to dry out, that's why it looks different on the upper and the inner layers.

I do not bloom any of my soaps.
Just a damp/shaken brush. Also, never does water rush out of my brush, even synthetics.

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 09-10-2017, 06:56 AM
#38
  • nikos.a
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  • Athens, Greece
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(09-10-2017, 06:52 AM)Nero Wrote:
(09-10-2017, 06:36 AM)nikos.a Wrote:
(09-10-2017, 06:24 AM)Nero Wrote: So what I might do: spoon the top/darker layer out of the tub, then add that soap, little by little, back into the tub/remaining lighter-colored soap to mix it more evenly. I might not re-add all the soap I remove, just to be conservative.

Matt, I don't think that this will help. If an ingredient causes this irritation, removing a few layers won't change anything. It will still be there.

"Discontinue use, if irritation occurs", as they say.


Hi Nick! I just want to give it a shot, because I believe that dark layer has the spicier fragrance components, and I have sensitive skin compared to most people.
Since I likely used the spiciest portion of the soap, I just believe it will get better if the concentration drops, by mixing it evenly.

It surely deserves a try, Matt!



edit: So that's how it arrived. Interesting.

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 09-10-2017, 06:57 AM
#39
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(09-07-2017, 09:01 AM)Nero Wrote: Very funny timing, as the Spice soap is in my cart at Maggard's for the past couple days. Just wondering what else is going in the cart.

THANK GOD THERE'S A TALLOW ARTISAN SOAP WITHOUT LANOLIN. KEEP IT UP!!
We now have 2 that I'm aware of: WSP/ASW
And now this new B&M line

Tallow + Steel doesn't have lanolin in it

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 09-10-2017, 07:02 AM
#40
  • Nero
  • ACV is my new BFF
  • le montagne
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(09-10-2017, 06:56 AM)nikos.a Wrote:
(09-10-2017, 06:52 AM)Nero Wrote:
(09-10-2017, 06:36 AM)nikos.a Wrote: Matt, I don't think that this will help. If an ingredient causes this irritation, removing a few layers won't change anything. It will still be there.

"Discontinue use, if irritation occurs", as they say.


Hi Nick! I just want to give it a shot, because I believe that dark layer has the spicier fragrance components, and I have sensitive skin compared to most people.
Since I likely used the spiciest portion of the soap, I just believe it will get better if the concentration drops, by mixing it evenly.

It surely deserves a try, Matt!



edit: So that's how it arrived. Interesting.

The shave was GREAT so definitely worth a try, especially for my inquisitive mind.

Yes, it stratified definitely after if was poured into the container, and maybe due to summer temperatures during shipping. That's what I think happened.

Also, please notice the changes that I made above to the post you had quoted. I clarify a bit about the spice concentration.

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