11-08-2017, 07:12 PM
#21
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Bayside, NY
User Info
(11-08-2017, 03:24 PM)Sully Wrote: This is awesome!  I'd like to sign too Charlie.

You’re batting cleanup, Shawn Wink

7 2,441
Reply
 11-09-2017, 02:48 AM
#22
User Info
Second shave.

[Image: acXJSp5.jpg]

51 6,630
Reply
 11-09-2017, 03:32 AM
#23
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Bayside, NY
User Info
Tight grouping.

What sort of camera do you use, Ricardo? I’m guessing it’s not a phone cam.

7 2,441
Reply
 11-09-2017, 04:08 AM
#24
  • Sully
  • Super Moderator
  • Cedar Park, Texas
User Info
(11-08-2017, 03:47 PM)TheLegalRazor Wrote:
(11-08-2017, 03:24 PM)Sully Wrote: This is awesome!  I'd like to sign too Charlie.

Shawn, you'll be a great addition to the tour.  This is a nice opportunity to try this razor.

It's a great opportunity.  I've been interested in this razor for a while, I hope it shaves as good as it looks.

(11-08-2017, 07:12 PM)chazt Wrote:
(11-08-2017, 03:24 PM)Sully Wrote: This is awesome!  I'd like to sign too Charlie.

You’re batting cleanup, Shawn Wink

Thanks Charlie.

9 1,509
Reply
 11-09-2017, 07:50 PM
#25
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Bayside, NY
User Info
You’re welcome Shawn Biggrin

7 2,441
Reply
 11-10-2017, 12:36 PM
#26
User Info
(11-09-2017, 03:32 AM)chazt Wrote: Tight grouping.

What sort of camera do you use, Ricardo? I’m guessing it’s not a phone cam.

Charlie, I'm not a photographer.  I use the camera on my cell phone, which is a Samsung Galaxy S8.

51 6,630
Reply
 11-10-2017, 12:43 PM
#27
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Bayside, NY
User Info
(11-10-2017, 12:36 PM)TheLegalRazor Wrote:
(11-09-2017, 03:32 AM)chazt Wrote: Tight grouping.

What sort of camera do you use, Ricardo? I’m guessing it’s not a phone cam.

Charlie, I'm not a photographer.  I use the camera on my cell phone, which is a Samsung Galaxy S8.

Then you have a good eye for composition my friend. Your Galaxy takes a nice photograph.

7 2,441
Reply
 11-10-2017, 12:49 PM
#28
User Info
Third shave.

[Image: jOruvI1.jpg]

51 6,630
Reply
 11-10-2017, 01:01 PM
#29
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Bayside, NY
User Info
Now That’s what you call a glamour shot!

7 2,441
Reply
 11-12-2017, 01:08 PM
#30
User Info
My initial plan was to do three shaves with this razor.  I ended up keeping it for four shaves, because I couldn't get to the Post Office to mail it out on Saturday as I had planned.  I decided to use it for a shave with two brushes, as I was working on a comparison of Plisson type and black synthetic knots.  So here is my fourth and final shave.  I'll mail the brush to Tom tomorrow (Monday) and post my thoughts on the razor.

[Image: xiq82Am.jpg]

51 6,630
Reply
 11-12-2017, 01:28 PM
#31
  • bullgoose
  • The Enabler
  • Redondo Beach, California, U.S.A
User Info
(11-12-2017, 01:08 PM)TheLegalRazor Wrote: My initial plan was to do three shaves with this razor.  I ended up keeping it for four shaves, because I couldn't get to the Post Office to mail it out on Saturday as I had planned.  I decided to use it for a shave with two brushes, as I was working on a comparison of Plisson type and black synthetic knots.  So here is my fourth and final shave.  I'll mail the brush to Tom tomorrow (Monday) and post my thoughts on the razor.

[Image: xiq82Am.jpg]
The post office was closed yesterday for Veterans Day so...it is good that you did not waste a trip. Biggrin I look forward to your thoughts.

46 18,820
Reply
 11-12-2017, 02:32 PM
#32
User Info
You're right Phil.  Veteran's Day fell on a Saturday, so State and Federal offices observed it and were closed on Friday.  I overlooked that the actual holiday was on Saturday.

51 6,630
Reply
 11-12-2017, 06:48 PM
#33
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Bayside, NY
User Info
Yes, it's unusual. We've become conditioned to federal holidays being observed on Mondays. I think...

7 2,441
Reply
 11-12-2017, 06:52 PM
#34
User Info
(11-12-2017, 06:48 PM)chazt Wrote: Yes, it's unusual. We've become conditioned to federal holidays being observed on Mondays. I think...

I looked into this and figured it out.  Veterans Day is always on November 11.  If the 11th falls on a Saturday, it's observed on Friday.   If the 11th falls on a Sunday, its observed on Monday.  Anyway, sorry to get off track here.  Back to the Brass Evolution XL and this great tour.

51 6,630
Reply
 11-13-2017, 07:03 PM
#35
User Info
The razor is on its way to Tom.

Priority Mail Tracking No. 9505 8152 2447 7317 1626 45.

51 6,630
Reply
 11-13-2017, 07:26 PM
#36
User Info
Thanks Ricardo.  Looking forward to this.  Will let everyone know when it arrives...

22 1,921
Reply
 11-13-2017, 07:36 PM
#37
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Bayside, NY
User Info
We look forward to your impressions, Ricardo.

7 2,441
Reply
 11-15-2017, 07:18 AM
#38
User Info
I'm fortunate to have been the first person on this tour 

Background of the Evolution

The Evolution has been remarkably successful in the short time it's been out. The original stainless steel Evolution was released by Bullgoose on February 16, 2017.  There is a long, informative thread on the development and release of this razor here.

http://shavenook.com/showthread.php?tid=...=Evolution

On May 12, 2017,  Bullgoose released the Brass Evolution XL.  This version increase the length of the handle from 78mm to 93mm, and is made from brass instead of stainless steel.

http://shavenook.com/showthread.php?tid=...olution+XL

On October 23, 2017,  Bullgoose released the Evolution T.  The T, available in both stainless steel and brass, features a more aggressive base plate.  The T base plates are also available by themselves, so that owners of the original stainless or brass razors can upgrade to the more aggress version.

http://shavenook.com/showthread.php?tid=...olution+XL
   
The original stainless steel Evolution, the Brass XL Evolution, and the more aggressive T versions of both razors, have received extensive praise here on TSN.

http://shavenook.com/showthread.php?tid=...=Evolution

http://shavenook.com/showthread.php?tid=...=Evolution

http://shavenook.com/showthread.php?tid=...=Evolution


Methadology

I shaved with the Brass Evolution XL four times.  I used both plates for each shave, one for each side of my face.  For the first three shaves, I knew which plate I was using for each side.  For my fourth shave, I did a blind test and did not know which plate I was using for each side.  All four shaves were my usual three passes, and I used a different, fresh blade for each shave.  I have a coarse beard which grows fast.  I have to shave every day, and three barbers have told me I have one of the toughest beards they have ever dealt with.

Despite my course beard, I generally prefer razors which have mild to moderate aggression.  For example, I do well with a Timeless .68, Weber PH, Merkur 34C, Muhle R89, and Gillette Super Speed.  Aggressive razors irritate my skin and cause me to get weepers.  The Muhle R41, for example, is a problem for me.  Knowing this, I went into this test assuming I would not fare well with the new T base plate.


Findings

The threads I linked to above reflect all of the positive commentary these razors have received, and I concur with what has been previously said.

In terms of its appearance, this razor is a looker.  The matte brass is simply beautiful.   I know there is some discussion about matte v highly polished finishes on razors.  I like the look of a new, highly polished razor.  Unfortunately, that look does not last.  A highly polished razor is more prone to scratches, and those scratches appear more prominently.  I understand this is entirely subjective, but I prefer the matte look on this razor. 

[Image: WinG2e5.jpg]

This razor is well designed and built, with no machine marks or alignment issues.

While I always thought brass would be beautiful for a razor, I was concerned about the weight of the material.  Brass is heavier than stainless steel, and this razor has an XL handle, factors which I thought would make the razor too heavy or unbalanced.  However, the design of this razor makes it lighter and more balanced than I expected.  I compared the weight to my Timeless, which has a shorter handle, and was surprised that the Timeless is heavier.

[Image: iuiWszt.jpg]

[Image: SEhnjDv.jpg]

I normally prefer shorter handles.  However, the weight and balance of Evolution XL are so optimal that I find this handle settles into my hand more comfortably than other handles of comparable length. 

I would not label the original base plate as mild.  Rather, I would place it in the moderate category.  With the original base plate, I was able to get a smooth, irritation free, shave without any learning curve or effort to play around with the angle.  I would rate the shaves as a dfs leaning towards a bbs.  It's a shave I would be happy with any day.

With the aggressive T plate, I could immediately feel more blade.  The difference was apparent from the first shave, and when I did the fourth blind shave it was obvious which one was the T plate.  At the conclusion my shaves, the T side was slightly smoother and would rate as a bbs.  The difference between the two base plates becomes more apparent after 12 hours, when the T side of my face was noticeably smoother.

What most impressed me about the T base plate is not that it is more aggressive.  I don't believe that simply designing a more aggressive base plate is necessarily always better.  The challenge lies in designing a base plate which is more aggressive without sacrificing comfort.  The T base plate strikes the ideal balance of aggressiveness and comfort.  Contrary to what I expected, the T base plate did not cause me any irritation or weepers.  It seems to me that the T base plate provides extra aggressiveness without taking that aggressiveness to a level which would cause discomfort to a lot of users.


Conclusion

This is a fine shaving tool, in appearance, construction, and function.  The unique Darwin design sets it apart from other razors on the market.  The option of two base plates effectively gives it an element of adjustability.  The two base plates should accommodate the needs of most shavers.  The price of $185 is reasonable considering that it is the product of the high quality, USA machining.  

Charlie, thank you for organizing and running this tour.

51 6,630
Reply
 11-15-2017, 10:07 AM
#39
User Info
Great review Ricardo.  I am looking forward to receiving it in the next day or two and will add my comments.


...and thanks again Charlie.  Great pass around.

22 1,921
Reply
 11-15-2017, 10:55 AM
#40
  • bullgoose
  • The Enabler
  • Redondo Beach, California, U.S.A
User Info
Nice write-up and review Ricardo. I am glad that it worked well for you.

46 18,820
Reply
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)