09-03-2018, 09:12 AM
#1
User Info
Over the years I have gone thru many different stones.  Shapton GS 1k, 2k, 4k, 8k, 16k, I've tried film 9um, 3um, 1um, Coticules, Black Thuri, Blue Thuri, a few different Jnats, Canadian Novaculite, Frankinian, Artaunon and a Trout Stone.  While I did enjoy all of these at one point in time or another, the Frankonian followed by the Trout Stone have ALWAYS produced an edge which is both very sharp, smooth and incredibly skin friendly.  Every shave I have had with these two stones has been amazing.  When I splash AS on after it feels as if I just splashed water on my face.  The edge is sharper than a Thuri and smoother than a Cotti.  I dont know what is so special about these two stones but for me they produce my unicorn edge.

What is your go to progression?

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 09-03-2018, 10:24 AM
#2
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Naniwa 1k, 3k 5k, 8k, 12k, then finish with CrO.

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 09-03-2018, 12:25 PM
#3
  • ischiapp
  • Senior Member
  • Ischia, Naples, Italy
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I love natural stones.

Rearely, to set the bevel I use NALS Princesa rough side.

Normally, my progression is:
• Coticule
• Princesa
• Seven Heaven

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 09-03-2018, 01:05 PM
#4
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I have never heard of the NALS Princesa or the Seven Heaven. Could you elaborate as to whet these are?

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 09-04-2018, 05:32 AM
#5
  • ischiapp
  • Senior Member
  • Ischia, Naples, Italy
User Info
Can You find both into ilRasoio italian forum.

Nero Ardesia Luxury Shaving has this slate hone, the Princesa.
Has two different grin:
• one side is made around 3K
• other side is naturally around 8K

An italian specialist (Bushdoctor@ilRasoio) has this fine high grit stone, the Seven Heaven.
It's glass like naturally around 12K

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 09-04-2018, 02:25 PM
#6
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(09-04-2018, 05:32 AM)ischiapp Wrote: Can You find both into ilRasoio italian forum.

Nero Ardesia Luxury Shaving has this slate hone, the Princesa.
Has two different grin:
• one side is made around 3K
• other side is naturally around 8K

An italian specialist (Bushdoctor@ilRasoio) has this fine high grit stone, the Seven Heaven.
It's glass like naturally around 12K
I’m curious, if the princesa can work from 3-5k and 8k on the other side and from what Ive read, at a pretty fast speed, is there a need for a Cotti.

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 09-16-2018, 05:24 PM
#7
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It depends how deteriorated the edge is
I usually use shapton glass 2k, 6k, coticule, shapton 16k and 30k after that I use stropping compound chromium oxide,
Stropping Compound iron oxide,
Cowhide leather strop,
And finally horsehide strop.

Unless I need to set bevel I’ll use 1k stone to start with, it works for me all the time.



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 09-17-2018, 01:49 AM
#8
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(09-16-2018, 05:24 PM)Matador Wrote: It depends how deteriorated the edge is
I usually use shapton glass 2k, 6k, coticule, shapton 16k and 30k after that I use stropping compound chromium oxide,
Stropping Compound iron oxide,
Cowhide leather strop,
And finally horsehide strop.

Unless I need to set bevel I’ll use 1k stone to start with, it works for me all the time.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s an interesting progression, why the Coticule vs something like a 10k. From what I remember, the shapton 30k is the same jis as CrOx, does it add something over the 30k?

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 09-17-2018, 07:12 AM
#9
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I always see the 10k pass as the last one that truly delivers some real changes on the edge.
16k -30k more polishing than edge modifiers in my opinion.
I used my shapton glass 10k several times instead of my coticule but the results are not the same, for some reason the coticule always give me that extra advance and fine notch that I can’t achieve with the synthetic stone, ( is something about natural stones ).
At that point my razors always pass the hanging hair test.
After that I just use the 16-30k as polishing process.
I use ChOx to shape the edge (you will see it under the microscope) something that stone can’t do but stropping.
After that I just keep stropping my blades (with no paste ) on daily uses and every now and then I again go back to the paste and strop to refresh the edge.
I go back to the fine stones about every year or so (depending on the use and blade material).
At least this is what is been working for me very good and every time, again everybody have a different way to do things and also different points of view.
After trying different ways and reading and researching, trial and errors, this process end up working for me the best.

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 09-18-2018, 02:46 AM
#10
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(09-17-2018, 07:12 AM)Matador Wrote: I always see the 10k pass as the last one that truly delivers some real changes on the edge.
16k -30k more polishing than edge modifiers in my opinion.
I used my shapton glass 10k several times instead of my coticule but the results are not the same, for some reason the coticule always give me that extra advance and fine notch that I can’t achieve with the synthetic stone, ( is something about natural stones ).
At that point my razors always pass the hanging hair test.
After that I just use the 16-30k as polishing process.
I use ChOx to shape the edge (you will see it under the microscope) something that stone can’t do but stropping.
After that I just keep stropping my blades (with no paste ) on daily uses and every now and then I again go back to the paste and strop to refresh the edge.
I go back to the fine stones about every year or so (depending on the use and blade material).
At least this is what is been working for me very good and every time, again everybody have a different way to do things and also different points of view.
After trying different ways and reading and researching, trial and errors, this process end up working for me the best.

It’s nice to see someone doing something completely different from the “norm”. I have always understood, or at least been told that using a higher grit stone or pasted after a Coti or other natural stone, that that stone would erase the scratches of the previous. Now I understand the theory behind this and I do understand where you are coming from, that being that the following stones polish rather than completely change the edge. I used to use .125 CBN following an Escher edge and I will say that the edge remained just as smooth and forgiving after the CBN, it was just much much keener an edge. My only issue with pastes is that if you polish too much the blade has a tendency to “stick” to the face.

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 09-18-2018, 10:41 AM
#11
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(09-18-2018, 02:46 AM)Rugger007 Wrote:
(09-17-2018, 07:12 AM)Matador Wrote: I always see the 10k pass as the last one that truly delivers some real changes on the edge.
16k -30k more polishing than edge modifiers in my opinion.
I used my shapton glass 10k several times instead of my coticule but the results are not the same, for some reason the coticule always give me that extra advance and fine notch that I can’t achieve with the synthetic stone, ( is something about natural stones ).
At that point my razors always pass the hanging hair test.
After that I just use the 16-30k as polishing process.
I use ChOx to shape the edge (you will see it under the microscope) something that stone can’t do but stropping.
After that I just keep stropping my blades (with no paste ) on daily uses and every now and then I again go back to the paste and strop to refresh the edge.
I go back to the fine stones about every year or so (depending on the use and blade material).
At least this is what is been working for me very good and every time, again everybody have a different way to do things and also different points of view.
After trying different ways and reading and researching, trial and errors, this process end up working for me the best.

It’s nice to see someone doing something completely different from the “norm”. I have always understood, or at least been told that using a higher grit stone or pasted after a Coti or other natural stone, that that stone would erase the scratches of the previous. Now I understand the theory behind this and I do understand where you are coming from, that being that the following stones polish rather than completely change the edge. I used to use .125 CBN following an Escher edge and I will say that the edge remained just as smooth and forgiving after the CBN, it was just much much keener an edge. My only issue with pastes is that if you polish too much the blade has a tendency to “stick” to the face.


Agreed I personally do not believe in a magic formula when it comes to hone the razors,
There’s is many variables to keep in consideration such steel, type, size, deterioration, etc etc.
I do believe that this is a solo journey that you have to discover by yourself, of course advices, tips and hints always guide you to master the technique but other than that trial and error will become your best friend,
And patience a lot of patience.
I encounter myself that a technique that didn’t work for me at all, did work for somebody else and so on and so forth.
Technique, hand pulse, steady angle, pressure, softness, aggressiveness etc etc is something we all have different, therefore sometimes a particular technique works for many people and other times works for just a handful of people.
At the end only you will know which method works best for you regardless of the other people opinions or suggestions.
Happy shaving.
Aroon R.


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 09-18-2018, 11:57 AM
#12
  • evnpar
  • Emeritus
  • Portland, Oregon
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Bevel set on Naniwa 1k, then Naguras with a Nakayama Asagi Maruichi Kamisori base stone.

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 10-02-2018, 03:55 PM
#13
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(09-18-2018, 11:57 AM)evnpar Wrote: Bevel set on Naniwa 1k, then Naguras with a Nakayama Asagi Maruichi Kamisori base stone.

Have you used a DN slurry to do the heavy work and finished with a Tomo? If so how does it compare to a nagura progression? Are you using a three or four stone set?

I just got a new Jnat and it is easily my new go to. The edges are incredible but I do have to make a few passes on the Trout Stone to tame it.

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 10-10-2018, 02:12 PM
#14
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For my personal razors I do a 4K to reset bevel then a 2-3 nagura progression on a Nakayama Kiita, for razors I receive I lightly touch a 1K then go 4, 8, 12 and JNAT or Coticule depending on what the owner wants

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 10-10-2018, 02:32 PM
#15
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I’m a throwback. If the bevel needs setting I use a Washita, fine India or 1K Chosera. After that I only use my finisher. Which one varies on my mood. 90% of the time it’s a welsh slate. Usually never need to set the bevel again unless I ding it or I’m bored


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