06-26-2019, 04:04 AM
#1
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Hello. I shave daily with 3 passes(WTG, XTG AND ATG). I get irritation below the jaw and on the neck. I use D'amaris shave cream or Palmolive shave cream, a Whipped Dog 22 mm knot silvertip badger brush, a Wilkinson Sword Classic(the one you get from the supermarket), a D'amaris aftershave https://www.emag.ro/after-shave-lotiune-d-amaris-barber-solea-men-115ml-gem-1629/pd/D65X0LBBM/ and a Gillete blue or red blade. No matter how smooth of a touch I use with the razor I get irritated. I also have problems with creating a lather. I apply the cream on he brush and then to my face, but by the 3'rd pass the lather is very thin. Any solutions?

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 06-26-2019, 05:47 AM
#2
  • Garb
  • Senior Member
  • Oregon
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I'd just do with the grain under my chin and see if that solves the issues you have. 
I never had good luck with the Wilkinson blades and actually just binned the entire lot of them this week. 
Some folks have good use for witch hazel but I can not add anything from personnel experience.

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 06-26-2019, 05:56 AM
#3
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(06-26-2019, 05:47 AM)Garb Wrote: I'd just do with the grain under my chin and see if that solves the issues you have. 
I never had good luck with the Wilkinson blades and actually just binned the entire lot of them this week. 
Some folks have good use for witch hazel but I can not add anything from personnel experience.

I use a Wilkinson Sword Classic saferty razor and the blades are Gillette.

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 06-26-2019, 06:13 AM
#4
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Queens, NY
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Those store bought Wilkinson blades can be rough. Perhaps try something else with a reputation for smoothness. I recommend Israeli Personnas. PM me your address and I’ll mail you a tuck.

As far as thin lather is concerned, use more product. Maybe try a good protective soap instead of a cream. If possible try using less pressure on your trouble areas. Witch hazel is good as an aftershave. I use it after alum. Also, try to avoid the ATG pass. Shea butter to finish and you’re good to go!

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 06-26-2019, 06:15 AM
#5
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+1 on the with the grain only. Feather light touch.
For lather the solution is to add more product. I’d start with 50% more. And don’t add water between passes.

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 06-26-2019, 06:27 AM
#6
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(06-26-2019, 06:13 AM)chazt Wrote: Those store bought Wilkinson blades can be rough. Perhaps try something else with a reputation for smoothness. I recommend Israeli Personnas. PM me your address and I’ll mail you a tuck.

As far as thin lather is concerned, use more product. Maybe try a good protective soap instead of a cream. If possible try using less pressure on your trouble areas. Witch hazel is good as an aftershave. I use it after alum. Also, try to avoid the ATG pass. Shea butter to finish and you’re good to go!

Like I said I use the Wilkinson Sword Classic safety razor and not the blades. I use the Gillette blue or red blades.

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 06-26-2019, 07:47 AM
#7
  • norton
  • Member
  • The Alien Nation
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Others will add their opinions -


1.  Thin lather - not enough shave cream. Do you soak the brush first?  Is your face wet first?  Do that.  Then try - put a good size dollop of cream in your wet non dominant hand.  Whip up the lather using the brush in your hand - 30 seconds or so.  It should feel slick not sticky.  If it's sticky, add a few drops of water and keep mixing.  Put the leftover cream on face using your hand - this helps get you started, and using your hand helps you feel when the lather is right.  Rinse off that hand, then follow with the brush that is now covered in lather.  The other way is to use a bowl to build the lather.  Don't be skimpy with the cream - a 22mm knot will hold (and needs) a decent amount of cream.  If you use a bowl, (preferably one with a bit of roughness on the bottom) you should have plenty of lather - add water drops until it's slick, not sticky.  Wet face between all passes.  Paint the lather on rather than scrubbing with circular motions.  Once you get a feel for how the lather should be, you can face lather - always with a wet face and damp brush. 

2. Irritation - your blade angle is probably 'scraping' rather than cutting.  Lift the handle up more (away from your face) and stretch the skin - pulling it downward.  Necks are trouble for a lot of folks.

3. I'm inclined not to recommend switching up products, but the other recommendations for blades are good ones.  Gillette blues are generally good.  I've not seen gillette reds.  I agree that you generally don't want to use the blades that came with the razor.  Palmolive cream has a good reputation, but so do a lot of others that aren't expensive.   I had better luck with soap until I learned how my lather should be from creams - my cream mix was generally too sticky, or too thin.  If you want to try a soap - get a puck of Tabac and build lather directly on it with a damp brush.   

4.  Practice making lather without shaving.  You'll use up some product, but it will help you get better at making lather.

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 06-26-2019, 09:02 AM
#8
  • Harvey
  • Senior Member
  • North Hills CA
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Where the skin is thin or sensitive it is NOT against the shaving law to use a less aggressive razor such as a Fusion or Mach 3 in these areas....you will not be arrested or shamed for doing so...a razor is a tool...use the one that does what you need and want.

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 06-26-2019, 04:59 PM
#9
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I have a little of that problem. I solved it by just doing 1 pass on my lower neck. It doesn't need 2 passes anyway (in my case).

And, there's always my favourite cream-- Saponificio Varesino Pro Victus ("The Peacemaker"). A tiny amount really helps after my shave if it doesn't go so well.

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 06-29-2019, 05:44 AM
#10
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(06-26-2019, 07:47 AM)norton Wrote: Others will add their opinions -


1.  Thin lather - not enough shave cream. Do you soak the brush first?  Is your face wet first?  Do that.  Then try - put a good size dollop of cream in your wet non dominant hand.  Whip up the lather using the brush in your hand - 30 seconds or so.  It should feel slick not sticky.  If it's sticky, add a few drops of water and keep mixing.  Put the leftover cream on face using your hand - this helps get you started, and using your hand helps you feel when the lather is right.  Rinse off that hand, then follow with the brush that is now covered in lather.  The other way is to use a bowl to build the lather.  Don't be skimpy with the cream - a 22mm knot will hold (and needs) a decent amount of cream.  If you use a bowl, (preferably one with a bit of roughness on the bottom) you should have plenty of lather - add water drops until it's slick, not sticky.  Wet face between all passes.  Paint the lather on rather than scrubbing with circular motions.  Once you get a feel for how the lather should be, you can face lather - always with a wet face and damp brush. 

2. Irritation - your blade angle is probably 'scraping' rather than cutting.  Lift the handle up more (away from your face) and stretch the skin - pulling it downward.  Necks are trouble for a lot of folks.

3. I'm inclined not to recommend switching up products, but the other recommendations for blades are good ones.  Gillette blues are generally good.  I've not seen gillette reds.  I agree that you generally don't want to use the blades that came with the razor.  Palmolive cream has a good reputation, but so do a lot of others that aren't expensive.   I had better luck with soap until I learned how my lather should be from creams - my cream mix was generally too sticky, or too thin.  If you want to try a soap - get a puck of Tabac and build lather directly on it with a damp brush.   

4.  Practice making lather without shaving.  You'll use up some product, but it will help you get better at making lather.

Thanks.

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 06-29-2019, 03:43 PM
#11
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I recommend:

1. Vintage Razors

- Gillette Superspeeds
- Gillette Aristocrats
- Star Model 100
- Wilkinson Sticky

2. Vintage Razor Blades

- Personna 74
- Any Made in England Wilkinson from the early
1970s forward
- Gillette Super Stainless (spoiler)
- Schick Platinum Plus
- Polsilver (Stainless Made in Poland brown
tuck)

3. Vintage Tallow Based Shave Soap

- Ralph Lauren Safari
- Old Spice
- Seaforth
- AOS Sandalwood

There are various price ranges in those recommendations, but any combination there of should go a long way to reducing your irritation problems.

Vr

Matt

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 06-29-2019, 05:31 PM
#12
  • SCOV
  • Senior Member
  • Minnesota
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I have or had some the same issues including lathering problems.  I agree with many of the comments above.  

1. Do you really need the ATG pass?  If yes, maybe only Monday and Thursday or every 3rd shave.  
2. Too runny or thin lather offers little protection.  Use more cream and more time to face lather.
3. My new Carbon Shave CX is my best razor for my neck.  Efficient razor and guessing sweet spot matches my technique.  Experiment with current setup.

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 06-29-2019, 06:47 PM
#13
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(06-29-2019, 05:31 PM)SCOV Wrote: I have or had some the same issues including lathering problems.  I agree with many of the comments above.  

1. Do you really need the ATG pass?  If yes, maybe only Monday and Thursday or every 3rd shave.  
2. Too runny or thin lather offers little protection.  Use more cream and more time to face lather.
3. My new Carbon Shave CX is my best razor for my neck.  Efficient razor and guessing sweet spot matches my technique.  Experiment with current setup.

Good advice

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