Help selecting injector blade

I am planning on using an injector (schick) razor for the first time. I am looking for help selecting from the following that I found at italian barber -- Feather artist club super blades, Feather artist club pro guard blades, Feather artist club light blades, Feather artist club professional blades, Kai captain titan mild protouch MG blade with guard. I have sensitive skin and tough course beard hair and prefer to use a mild razor with a sharp blade. For the last severals months, I have been using a Feather AS-D2 or rockwell 6S with polsilver blades.

Yoi may want to consider the Schick injector blades.

https://bullgooseshaving.com/products/sc...-20-blades

(09-01-2019, 04:54 PM)meshave Wrote: I am planning on using an injector (schick) razor for the first time. I am looking for help selecting from the following that I found at italian barber -- Feather artist club super blades, Feather artist club pro guard blades, Feather artist club light blades, Feather artist club professional blades, Kai captain titan mild protouch MG blade with guard. I have sensitive skin and tough course beard hair and prefer to use a mild razor with a sharp blade. For the last severals months, I have been using a Feather AS-D2 or rockwell 6S with polsilver blades.

Ummm Artist club blades only fit in artist club razors. IB sells the RazoRock hawk in aluminum. the AC blade is much longer than an injector blade. 

indeed look for injector blades that have a cartridge with a key to open the razor and slide in a blade while sliding out the used blade. 

any other way to load a schick razor is dangerous both to you and the razor.

(09-02-2019, 11:50 AM)RyznRio Wrote:

(09-01-2019, 04:54 PM)meshave Wrote: I am planning on using an injector (schick) razor for the first time. I am looking for help selecting from the following that I found at italian barber -- Feather artist club super blades, Feather artist club pro guard blades, Feather artist club light blades, Feather artist club professional blades, Kai captain titan mild protouch MG blade with guard. I have sensitive skin and tough course beard hair and prefer to use a mild razor with a sharp blade. For the last severals months, I have been using a Feather AS-D2 or rockwell 6S with polsilver blades.

Ummm Artist club blades only fit in artist club razors. IB sells the RazoRock hawk in aluminum. the AC blade is much longer than an injector blade. 

indeed look for injector blades that have a cartridge with a key to open the razor and slide in a blade while sliding out the used blade. 

any other way to load a schick razor is dangerous both to you and the razor.

Thanks for pointing this out. I did not realize these blades would not work in a schick injector razor.

(09-01-2019, 05:19 PM)TheLegalRazor Wrote: Yoi may want to consider the Schick injector blades.

https://bullgooseshaving.com/products/sc...-20-blades

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try these.

(09-02-2019, 02:17 PM)meshave Wrote:

(09-01-2019, 05:19 PM)TheLegalRazor Wrote: Yoi may want to consider the Schick injector blades.

https://bullgooseshaving.com/products/sc...-20-blades

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try these.

one of the rabbit holes with injector razors is the blades. not much to choose from in current production. the b20 cartridge does not have a key and will not work in a schick injector razor. the razor will not open without the key. 

after checking the bullgoose site I did not see injector blades that you could use in a shick. If I missed something I apologise to Phil but ebay may be a better bet.

(09-02-2019, 03:48 PM)RyznRio Wrote:

(09-02-2019, 02:17 PM)meshave Wrote:

(09-01-2019, 05:19 PM)TheLegalRazor Wrote: Yoi may want to consider the Schick injector blades.

https://bullgooseshaving.com/products/sc...-20-blades

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try these.

one of the rabbit holes with injector razors is the blades. not much to choose from in current production. the b20 cartridge does not have a key and will not work in a schick injector razor. the razor will not open without the key. 

after checking the bullgoose site I did not see injector blades that you could use in a shick. If I missed something I apologise to Phil but ebay may be a better bet.

One of the reasons folks seek out the E2 among Schick injectors is for the model that opens and doesn't require a key. Worth the trouble sorting through eBay listings.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

(09-02-2019, 03:48 PM)RyznRio Wrote:

(09-02-2019, 02:17 PM)meshave Wrote:

(09-01-2019, 05:19 PM)TheLegalRazor Wrote: Yoi may want to consider the Schick injector blades.

https://bullgooseshaving.com/products/sc...-20-blades

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try these.

one of the rabbit holes with injector razors is the blades. not much to choose from in current production. the b20 cartridge does not have a key and will not work in a schick injector razor. the razor will not open without the key. 

after checking the bullgoose site I did not see injector blades that you could use in a shick. If I missed something I apologise to Phil but ebay may be a better bet.

Phil have Personna injector blades listed as out of stock... Connaught Shaving (my go to shop for blades most of the time) have Personnas listed as in stock, but no Schicks.

(09-02-2019, 06:19 PM)jmudrick Wrote:

(09-02-2019, 03:48 PM)RyznRio Wrote:

(09-02-2019, 02:17 PM)meshave Wrote: Thanks for the suggestions. I will try these.

one of the rabbit holes with injector razors is the blades. not much to choose from in current production. the b20 cartridge does not have a key and will not work in a schick injector razor. the razor will not open without the key. 

after checking the bullgoose site I did not see injector blades that you could use in a shick. If I missed something I apologise to Phil but ebay may be a better bet.

One of the reasons folks seek out the E2 among Schick injectors is for the model that opens and doesn't require a key. Worth the trouble sorting through eBay listings.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Thanks, I remember reading about a schick that didn't need a key but couldn't remember which model had that feature.

back to the rabbit hole to search for an E2.

anyway had a really smooth BBS with an i1 and a fresh personna ptfe.

Thanks for the advice folks. These are the razors I have. How can I identify the type? Is one these an E type?

Also, the adjustable one has a blade in it. How do I clean the razor? How to deal with what could possibly be a rusty blade and the possible residue that will be left behind when the blade is taken out?

Some information can be found in Robert K Waits' Razor Compendium (a recommended resource for anyone with more than a passing interest in vintage razors), some can be found online, like at http://www.safetyrazors.net/schick/schicktech.htm

The only one I can identify with certainty is the type M1 in the upper right corner.

As for the E2... no personal experience, but casting a dragnet over the web I found a couple of photos that explains it:

^This^ is what the spring should look like, with a couple of tabs or flaps.


And ^this^ is what twisting the springs should let you do... open the razor head completely for cleaning and maintenance

Hope that helps

/Edit:
A bit closer reading indicates that the spring should be moved LEFT to be opened. There should be a noticeable lack of a stop (a metal bump) on the left side - and if you try to twist if there is a stop, you might damage the razor.

Note lack of a stop on the left of the spring.


Spring swung to the left side - note spring stop on the right side.

(09-03-2019, 08:48 PM)WegianWarrior Wrote: Some information can be found in Robert K Waits' Razor Compendium (a recommended resource for anyone with more than a passing interest in vintage razors), some can be found online, like at http://www.safetyrazors.net/schick/schicktech.htm

The only one I can identify with certainty is the type M1 in the upper right corner.

As for the E2... no personal experience, but casting a dragnet over the web I found a couple of photos that explains it:

^This^ is what the spring should look like, with a couple of tabs or flaps.


And ^this^ is what twisting the springs should let you do... open the razor head completely for cleaning and maintenance

Hope that helps

/Edit:
A bit closer reading indicates that the spring should be moved LEFT to be opened. There should be a noticeable lack of a stop (a metal bump) on the left side - and if you try to twist if there is a stop, you might damage the razor.

Note lack of a stop on the left of the spring.


Spring swung to the left side - note spring stop on the right side.

Thank you. These picture are very helpful. My razors are not the opening kind.