03-24-2020, 05:24 AM
#1
  • ischiapp
  • Senior Member
  • Forio d'Ischia, Naples, Italy
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The new Chiseled Face base is called Silk Tallow.
Where the key word is lubrication. (Slick)

This is the list of ingredients. (INCI)
Quote:Chiseled Face wrote:
US: Glycerin, Potassium Stearate, Potassium Castorate, Silk Hydrolysate, Potassium Tallowate, Lanolin, Aloe barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Fragrance, White Kaolin Clay, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Castorate, Sodium Lactate, Allantoin, Potassium Kokumate, Sodium tallowate, Suc Ulmus Fulva Bark Extract, Sodium kokumate
UK: Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Castor Oil, Beef Tallow, Silk Hydrolysate, Potassium Hydroxide (lye), Lanolin, Aloe Vera Juice, Water, Fragrance, White Kaolin Clay, Sodium Lactate, Kukom Butter, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide (lye), Sugar, Slippery Elm Bark Extract
(orders in the two ingredients lists are slightly different due to the requirement of INCI ingredients to show whether an oil has been saponified with sodium or potassium hydroxide)


This high lubrication is obtained with:
• Glycerin in first position
• Aloe Barbadensis, more than water
• White Kaolin (Clay) in high position
THAT is what I call sssssssssssssssssslick!!!
Biggrin  Biggrin  Biggrin

To improve it all, a nice handful of Silk Proteins and Lanolin.
Allantoin benefits the inflamed skin.
The North American Red Elm supports the previous one, and adds astringent and healing functions.

At the moment, there're three scents:
  • Ghost Town Barber
    Bergamot, Basil Leaf, White Patchouli, Oakmoss, Texas Cedar, Leather, Smoke, Gunpowder
  • Midnight Stag
    Russian Leather, Motor Oil, Hoppes #9, Birch Tar, Oakmoss, Gasoline, Smoke, Cedar, Cade, Bergamot, Vanilla
  • Sherlock
    Warm Tobacco, Toasted Caramel, Black Pepper, Moist Dirt, Leather, Moss, Mandarin, Honey, Rose

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 03-24-2020, 05:33 AM
#2
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It's called "Silk Tallow"... But yes, it is impressively slick.

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 03-24-2020, 07:11 AM
#3
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is the motor oil 10W30? and gasoline unleaded?

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 03-24-2020, 03:55 PM
#4
  • ischiapp
  • Senior Member
  • Forio d'Ischia, Naples, Italy
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As you can see, the differences are many between the new Silk Tallow base and the previous Tallow base by Chiseled Face.
It's not just a percentage change in Glycerin and Silk Powder.
The wording has totally changed.
With the addition of lubricating and decongestant components.
As well as Lanoline, and the replacement with a more prized type of Aloe.
So I'm not too sorry about the loss of noble fats like Mango and Avocado.
Maybe I would have preferred the fragrance a little higher, since in the new version it seems quite less full-bodied.
Also the increase in complexity and therefore time as well as the cost of the components, I believe is correctly expressed in the +20% price.
[Image: aOZQy11l.jpg]

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 03-30-2020, 07:05 PM
#5
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I'll have to give this a shot.  The only CFG soap that I have is Cedar & Spice.  While I'm not crazy about the scent, the performance is great.  That makes me look really forward to trying Silk Tallow.

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 03-31-2020, 02:53 AM
#6
  • Mel S Meles
  • On the edge, ouch
  • 44.4899° south of the North Pole
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(03-24-2020, 03:55 PM)ischiapp Wrote: As you can see, the differences are many between the new Slick Tallow base and the previous Tallow base by Chiseled Face.
It's not just a percentage change in Glycerin and Silk Powder.
The wording has totally changed.
With the addition of lubricating and decongestant components.
As well as Lanoline, and the replacement with a more prized type of Aloe.
So I'm not too sorry about the loss of noble fats like Mango and Avocado.
Maybe I would have preferred the fragrance a little higher, since in the new version it seems quite less full-bodied.
Also the increase in complexity and therefore time as well as the cost of the components, I believe is correctly expressed in the +20% price.
[Image: aOZQy11l.jpg]

As you noted in an earlier post, some of those changes are very probably due to INCI and regulatory requirements.  For instance, if you saponify beef tallow with both sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, you end up with sodium tallowate and potassium tallowate; in terms of what most of us think of as "ingredients," then, there is no difference between a listing with the three ingredients tallow, sodium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide, on one hand, and a listing with sodium tallowate and potassium tallowate, on the other hand.  Aloe vera is the common name for a plant with the Latin name aloe barbadensis; the latter is the same as the former, not a more prized form.

Col. Ichabod Conk shaving soap comprises mostly glycerin and avocado oil.  It is, indeed, quite slick:  I speak from authority, because I used Col. Conk Amber to the exclusion of other shaving soaps for a quarter century in my daily shaves.  But Col. Conk does not get much love in these Shavenook forums, presumably because it is not possible to make lather sculpture with it.

I have the dregs of a puck of Chiseled Face Summer Storm (certainly the old formula) here; it was a pretty good shaving soap.

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 03-31-2020, 03:13 AM
#7
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(03-31-2020, 02:53 AM)Mel S Meles Wrote:
(03-24-2020, 03:55 PM)ischiapp Wrote: As you can see, the differences are many between the new Slick Tallow base and the previous Tallow base by Chiseled Face.
It's not just a percentage change in Glycerin and Silk Powder.
The wording has totally changed.
With the addition of lubricating and decongestant components.
As well as Lanoline, and the replacement with a more prized type of Aloe.
So I'm not too sorry about the loss of noble fats like Mango and Avocado.
Maybe I would have preferred the fragrance a little higher, since in the new version it seems quite less full-bodied.
Also the increase in complexity and therefore time as well as the cost of the components, I believe is correctly expressed in the +20% price.
[Image: aOZQy11l.jpg]

As you noted in an earlier post, some of those changes are very probably due to INCI and regulatory requirements.  For instance, if you saponify beef tallow with both sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, you end up with sodium tallowate and potassium tallowate; in terms of what most of us think of as "ingredients," then, there is no difference between a listing with the three ingredients tallow, sodium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide, on one hand, and a listing with sodium tallowate and potassium tallowate, on the other hand.  Aloe vera is the common name for a plant with the Latin name aloe barbadensis; the latter is the same as the former, not a more prized form.

Col. Ichabod Conk shaving soap comprises mostly glycerin and avocado oil.  It is, indeed, quite slick:  I speak from authority, because I used Col. Conk Amber to the exclusion of other shaving soaps for a quarter century in my daily shaves.  But Col. Conk does not get much love in these Shavenook forums, presumably because it is not possible to make lather sculpture with it.

I have the dregs of a puck of Chiseled Face Summer Storm (certainly the old formula) here; it was a pretty good shaving soap.
Clap

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 03-31-2020, 01:01 PM
#8
  • ischiapp
  • Senior Member
  • Forio d'Ischia, Naples, Italy
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(03-31-2020, 02:53 AM)Mel S Meles Wrote: As you noted in an earlier post, some of those changes are very probably due to INCI and regulatory requirements.
Here, the formulation is changed in deep.

(03-31-2020, 02:53 AM)Mel S Meles Wrote: Aloe vera is the common name for a plant with the Latin name aloe barbadensis; the latter is the same as the former, not a more prized form.
Aloe Vera is the generic name. That of the Barbados cultivar is richer, more prized, more expencive.
Aloe is grown in many parts of the world, but with different results depending on the environmental characteristics.

(03-31-2020, 02:53 AM)Mel S Meles Wrote: Col. Ichabod Conk shaving soap comprises mostly glycerin and avocado oil. It is, indeed, quite slick
Slick, yes ... but in a totally different way.
Simple "melt and poor" soap has different characteristic. More similar to a hand soap than a shaving soap.
This is the reason why It's not possible to build a lather sculpture with it.

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 04-01-2020, 11:50 AM
#9
  • Mel S Meles
  • On the edge, ouch
  • 44.4899° south of the North Pole
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(03-31-2020, 01:01 PM)ischiapp Wrote:
(03-31-2020, 02:53 AM)Mel S Meles Wrote: Aloe vera is the common name for a plant with the Latin name aloe barbadensis; the latter is the same as the former, not a more prized form.

Aloe Vera is the generic name. That of the Barbados cultivar is richer, more prized, more expencive.
Aloe is grown in many parts of the world, but with different results depending on the environmental characteristics.

There are people who regard Wikipedia entries as garbage and there are those who regard Wikipedia entries as peer-reviewed (which many are) and highly reliable.  

FWIW, here is an excerpt from the Wikipedia entry for Aloe vera:  

Wikipedia Wrote:The species has a number of synonyms: A. barbadensis Mill., Aloe indica Royle, Aloe perfoliata L. var. vera and A. vulgaris Lam. Common names include Chinese Aloe, Indian Aloe, True Aloe, Barbados Aloe, Burn Aloe, First Aid Plant. The species epithet vera means "true" or "genuine".
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aloe_vera

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 04-02-2020, 08:39 AM
#10
  • ischiapp
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  • Forio d'Ischia, Naples, Italy
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(04-01-2020, 11:50 AM)Mel S Meles Wrote: FWIW, here is an excerpt from the Wikipedia entry for Aloe vera
I repeat what I have already written, with other words.
Although from the technical point of view they are the same plant, in the production field Aloe Vera from the Barbados islands ("Aloe Barbadensis" true cultivar) is more expensive given the low production, because the territory produces an adaptation in the biological cycle that leads to a greater concentration of active ingredients and therefore the quality and awards are clear.
Aloe Vera is almost everywhere, even in Italy we have a lot.
But despite being the same on paper, it's actually different.

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 04-03-2020, 07:24 AM
#11
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OK, here's the first "Naysayer" regarding this new formula, and it has NOTHING to do with slickness. Both BURNED my face.
It should be noted that the original formula Midnight Stag did NOT. I have since re-ordered the Sherlock and the GTB in their original iterations.
Maybe it's just my skin, but they did not work for me.
Very disappointed.

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 04-06-2020, 09:11 AM
#12
  • Mel S Meles
  • On the edge, ouch
  • 44.4899° south of the North Pole
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(04-02-2020, 08:39 AM)ischiapp Wrote: Although from the technical point of view they are the same plant, in the production field Aloe Vera from the Barbados islands ("Aloe Barbadensis" true cultivar) is more expensive given the low production, because the territory produces an adaptation in the biological cycle that leads to a greater concentration of active ingredients and therefore the quality and awards are clear.
Aloe Vera is almost everywhere, even in Italy we have a lot.
But despite being the same on paper, it's actually different.

Aloe barbadensis is not a designation of geographic origin; the inclusion of barbadensis in the name does not indicate that the plant grew on Barbados.  
Aloe barbadensis is a species designation.  

According to Giuseppe Caruso, PhD, of Università Politecnica delle Marche | Università degli Studi di Ancona · Department of Agricultural, Food and Environmental Sciences,

Giuseppe Caruso, PhD Wrote:According to the current knowledge Aloe barbadensis Mill. and Aloe vera (L.) Burm.f. (using complete names helps to avoid misunderstandings because the same name combination could have been used by different authors!) are synonyms.

https://www.researchgate.net/post/What_i...arbadensis

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