06-06-2020, 02:58 PM
#1
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I currently have issues getting a close shave, My skin is lightish, hair is dark and coarse. Have stubble left over after shaving.

Currently I'm rotating between a DE19 and GEM 1912 Jr. I think I need something sharper, more efficient and more aggressive.

Does anybody have any recommendations?  After research I've narrowed down to 3 options (with suboptions to add to the headache).

- A more aggressive DE such as the Fattip Slant or Muhle R41 (with Feathers, Nacets, 7'oclock sharp edges)
- A more aggressive GEM razor such as a MMOC, Everready 1914 or 1924
- An aggressive injector such as the Adjustable M (on a high setting)

Any advice? I want as many opinions as possible.

Thanks.

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 06-06-2020, 03:13 PM
#2
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Also shavettes as an option,

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 06-06-2020, 03:22 PM
#3
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I have similar type hair. I recommend the ikon b1 standard razor.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

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 06-06-2020, 03:24 PM
#4
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Or the charcoal goods level 3

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

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 06-06-2020, 03:36 PM
#5
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Before you change equipment, it’s worth evaluating your technique. How many passes are you doing? Have you mapped your beard?

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 06-06-2020, 06:05 PM
#6
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Sharper blades, yes, not sure about more aggressive razor. An additional pass can compensate for a milder razor.

Sharpest blades I've found are the Feather Artist Club Blades, with the Schick Prolines being my favorite.  I like the GEM blades, but don't feel they are as sharp as some of the Artist Club blades such as the Prolines.

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 06-06-2020, 06:20 PM
#7
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I have very coarse hair. It took me much experimentation to learn that I need a sharp blade in an aggressive razor that holds the blade as rigid as possible. Now my rotation consists only of 1) Nodachi, 2) Muhle R41, and 3) ATT H1.
I would recommend the R41 with a Timor for the shave of a lifetime, provided you respect the razor and employ the lightest touch only.

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 06-06-2020, 07:08 PM
#8
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(06-06-2020, 03:36 PM)mike_the_kraken Wrote: Before you change equipment, it’s worth evaluating your technique. How many passes are you doing? Have you mapped your beard?

+1

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 06-06-2020, 08:34 PM
#9
  • naiyor
  • Active Member
  • Ontario, Canada
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(06-06-2020, 03:13 PM)back_to_shaving Wrote: Also shavettes as an option,


I get my closest shaves from a shavette. I shave almost every day with one.

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 06-06-2020, 09:11 PM
#10
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(06-06-2020, 03:36 PM)mike_the_kraken Wrote: Before you change equipment, it’s worth evaluating your technique. How many passes are you doing? Have you mapped your beard?

Agree. It took me a long time to realize that no matter the hardware or software, I will always get irritation and discomfort from a 3 pass shave. Now I only do a 1 pass shave with some buffing. I don't get a BBS, but its smooth enough and I avoid a lot of issues I had in the past. I still have a to be careful of excessive buffing.

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 06-07-2020, 04:59 AM
#11
  • RyznRio
  • Active Member
  • Connecticut
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(06-06-2020, 09:11 PM)meshave Wrote:
(06-06-2020, 03:36 PM)mike_the_kraken Wrote: Before you change equipment, it’s worth evaluating your technique. How many passes are you doing? Have you mapped your beard?

Agree. It took me a long time to realize that no matter the hardware or software, I will always get irritation and discomfort from a 3 pass shave. Now I only do a 1 pass shave with some buffing. I don't get a BBS, but its smooth enough and I avoid a lot of issues I had in the past. I still have a to be careful of excessive buffing.

I had/have the same problem. In my case, I was adding pressure at the point of contact in an effort to get a closer shave. It doesn't take much more than a gram or two of extra pressure to cause irritation. Also, the angle of the blade is a factor. It is easy to go from slicing whiskers to scraping skin without being aware of the damage until the shave is done.

I was able to fix this problem and get an irritation free 3 pass with buffing shave by sticking with one razor, one brand of blade used once, one brush, and one soap, for one month. In some ways think of this time like being in school, boring at times but necessary to develop the skills you need in an organized way.

In addition, take a good look at your preshave and post shave ritual. Pre - cleanse and exfoliate. A washcloth will do but many gents swear by scrubbing pads. Post - use alum first to see how you did and begin the healing process where necessary, then whatever lotions or balms work best for you. These pages are replete with recommendations both pro and con.

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 06-07-2020, 05:15 AM
#12
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(06-06-2020, 06:20 PM)shaveser Wrote: I have very coarse hair. It took me much experimentation to learn that I need a sharp blade in an aggressive razor that holds the blade as rigid as possible. Now my rotation consists only of 1) Nodachi, 2) Muhle R41, and 3) ATT H1.
I would recommend the R41 with a Timor for the shave of a lifetime, provided you respect the razor and employ the lightest touch only.


I hear, understand and agree with all of the points related to proper prep, hair mapping and sticking with a set up for a period of time. But those with thick, coarse stubble face a different variable that, IMO, can only be really be fixed with a rigid blade. A Gillette SS for example is a great razor, but provides insufficient rigidity when cutting through wire-like stubble. So, if the OP really does have very thick, coarse stubble, I’d say that equipment actually does matter quite a bit. Agree that it’s not about aggression in terms of feel, but you’ll need a razor that locks down a blade tight with zero chatter.

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 06-07-2020, 10:11 AM
#13
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(06-06-2020, 02:58 PM)back_to_shaving Wrote: I currently have issues getting a close shave, My skin is lightish, hair is dark and coarse. Have stubble left over after shaving.

Currently I'm rotating between a DE19 and GEM 1912 Jr. I think I need something sharper, more efficient and more aggressive.

Does anybody have any recommendations?  After research I've narrowed down to 3 options (with suboptions to add to the headache).

- A more aggressive DE such as the Fattip Slant or Muhle R41 (with Feathers, Nacets, 7'oclock sharp edges)
- A more aggressive GEM razor such as a MMOC, Everready 1914 or 1924
- An aggressive injector such as the Adjustable M (on a high setting)

Any advice? I want as many opinions as possible.

Thanks.



Of the three, the MMOC is the least troublesome option.
I found it to be a hassle free razor.
So that would be my choice.

I am a big fan of the R41 type though.
But as mentioned, you may get better results with:

- better soap or lathering, you did not mention your software
- better brush
- colder or hotter water
- better prep
- a better grip on your razor

etc.

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 06-07-2020, 12:45 PM
#14
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I rotate between an Edwin Jagger best badger and a Semogue 620. Usually stick to creams like Proraso, Speick and Gillette Pure. Occasionally use MWF but it gives me trouble. I do own some Arko, Haslinger,Murphy and McNeil Triskele and Deceleration Grooming. But I want to focus on the hardware before switching to soaps. Not sure if that is a good idea.

I'm usually doing 3 passes with some touch up. With the DE I never get irritation. the GEM 1912 depends. No irritation on 2+days of growth. But some cuts and irritation on a days worth of growth.

How does the R41 compare to a MMOC and Fatip slant in efficiency and blade feel?

For the MMOC is it hassle free because the angle is relatively simple?

Thanks for the responses so far.

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 06-07-2020, 01:06 PM
#15
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For me face mapping was the final step technique wise to gain the best results. Specifically a small adjustment to ensure I was going directly against the grain on my last pass and on touch ups. A more aggressive approach with equipment was not the answer for me. It took a lot of trial and error to settle on what works for me (although I probably won't stop trying new things). Best of luck.

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 06-07-2020, 06:54 PM
#16
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(06-07-2020, 04:59 AM)RyznRio Wrote:
(06-06-2020, 09:11 PM)meshave Wrote:
(06-06-2020, 03:36 PM)mike_the_kraken Wrote: Before you change equipment, it’s worth evaluating your technique. How many passes are you doing? Have you mapped your beard?

Agree. It took me a long time to realize that no matter the hardware or software, I will always get irritation and discomfort from a 3 pass shave. Now I only do a 1 pass shave with some buffing. I don't get a BBS, but its smooth enough and I avoid a lot of issues I had in the past. I still have a to be careful of excessive buffing.

I had/have the same problem. In my case, I was adding pressure at the point of contact in an effort to get a closer shave. It doesn't take much more than a gram or two of extra pressure to cause irritation. Also, the angle of the blade is a factor. It is easy to go from slicing whiskers to scraping skin without being aware of the damage until the shave is done.

I was able to fix this problem and get an irritation free 3 pass with buffing shave by sticking with one razor, one brand of blade used once, one brush, and one soap, for one month. In some ways think of this time like being in school, boring at times but necessary to develop the skills you need in an organized way.

In addition, take a good look at your preshave and post shave ritual. Pre - cleanse and exfoliate. A washcloth will do but many gents swear by scrubbing pads. Post - use alum first to see how you did and begin the healing process where necessary, then whatever lotions or balms work best for you. These pages are replete with recommendations both pro and con.

Agree with everything here. I would also recommend trying cold water shaving and trying shaving before taking a shower. I shave with only cold water because I get a better shave with it, than after a shower or hot water.

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 06-11-2020, 07:34 AM
#17
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I have similar skin/hair and found a less sharp blade in a larger gap razor works best for me.  i.e. GC .84/Timeless .95 and Astra SP blades.  I do two passes; WTG then ATG with a couple touch-ups and consider it finished.  I don't chase BBS.

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 06-11-2020, 02:13 PM
#18
  • Mouser
  • Senior Member
  • Forest City, Florida U.S.A.
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Now I'm just going to state the facts.." just the facts please m'am" ..Joe Friday
I get a BBS every shave, I don't chase it, it just happens. 
I do three passes every time.
An old friend,  one of my best friends of 45+ years is, was, a barber, his clientele were very upper class in the old money section of town,who has given me a couple of straight shaves. He told me my beard shaved as average.  Denser than average  but the whiskers themselves are a little softer than average resulting in a beard that shaves as average. 
I've been keeping a complete shaving diary since I started wet shaving in late 2012.
The only thing that corresponds to my getting BBS results every time is when changed to using vintage blades exclusively.  BBS every time and weepers are an endangered species. 
That's it, in my case.

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 06-11-2020, 02:33 PM
#19
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(06-11-2020, 02:13 PM)Mouser Wrote: Now I'm just going to state the facts.." just the facts please m'am" ..Joe Friday
I get a BBS every shave, I don't chase it, it just happens. 
I do three passes every time.
An old friend,  one of my best friends of 45+ years is, was, a barber, his clientele were very upper class in the old money section of town,who has given me a couple of straight shaves. He told me my beard shaved as average.  Denser than average  but the whiskers themselves are a little softer than average resulting in a beard that shaves as average. 
I've been keeping a complete shaving diary since I started wet shaving in late 2012.
The only thing that corresponds to my getting BBS results every time is when changed to using vintage blades exclusively.  BBS every time and weepers are an endangered species. 
That's it, in my case.


amen - perfect

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 06-20-2020, 03:18 AM
#20
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With a SE razor the mild Gem bullet does not work for me but the 1912 and MMOC does with a Gem blade. With DE razors I like a sharper blade, like an Astra SP or a Wilkinson Sword in my Gillette Slim, both blades work great even in a EJ 89D also but that's just what works for me. Both blades in my Slim on 7 works great for me. I advised my grandson to get a Parker Variant and a sample pack of blades, he seems happy with the result he gets.

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