09-04-2020, 06:34 AM
#1
  • vvval
  • Member
  • Russia, Moscow
User Info
Comparison of adjustable razors)

Participants: Rocnel ajustable sailor 2020, Gibbs 15, Gibbs 17, Apollo micron, Frank shaving, Parker variant, Merkur progress, Taiga SB, Gillette Toggle, Gillette Fatboy.
Methods of comparison:
I tried to make the conditions as identical as possible. One soap was used-Nuavia blu, a scuttle was used for whipping up the foam, a brush-Wolf Whisker-is characterized by a soft badger pile, it whips up the foam well. Skin preparation-wash with soap and hot water several times. The quality of shaving was immediately evaluated. After shaving, the skin was washed several times with cold water and then applied Muhle alunite and Neumann 1911 lotion. The severity of the skin reaction was assessed separately for alunite and separately for lotion. 15 minutes after the lotion, Saponificio Pro Victis was applied. The General impression of shaving and the assessment of skin reaction were described immediately. In the evening, if necessary, the "fatigue" of the skin was described again. It was mandatory to use Saponificio Pro Victis at night. By morning, the skin was always restored.
Assessment methods:
BBS-divided into variants
BBS+ - clean, and the bristles begin to appear late and even in the evening is not yet expressed.
BBS clean shave, the bristles begin to appear by the afternoon.
BBS-shaving clean, but not up to full cleanliness
DFS-without subsections
nonDFS-need to add another machine
Number of points:
BBS+ 0
BBS 1
BBS- 2
DFS 3
The need to be kind 5
Alunit-points were set from 0-no unpleasant sensations, to 5-pronounced burning and unpleasant sensations
Lotion-points were set from 0-no unpleasant sensations, to 5-burning all over the face with unpleasant sensations.
If "skin fatigue" persisted in the evening, another point was added.
All points were added together, the better the indicators, the fewer points were obtained.
The assessment was carried out in 2 stages.
Stage 1:
Shaving is required in 3 passes-along, across and against the hair growth. At the first stage, the Feather blade was used, while all razors were used with fixed values of aggressiveness-along the growth-2, across-1.5, against-1. If the values in the razor do not start with 0, but with 1, then 3, 2.5, and 2, respectively.
The second stage-the RPL blade, while any values of aggressiveness were allowed, the main requirement was the quality of shaving.
Razors were changed daily, first the first stage was held, then the second. Of course, these indicators and conclusions are quite conditional and concern me first of all,
What I was interested in:
1 How "soft" are the initial settings of each razor and how effective they are
2 How quickly you can choose the settings and effectively shave and how comfortable it will be.
Why these 2 razors-Feather is considered one of the sharpest, and on RPL I have the greatest experience and for me this blade in part of razors is quite comfortable.
I combined two indicators-shaving efficiency and comfort, which seems to me quite logical.
Short summary of each razor:
Rocnel ajustable sailor 2020-by shaving efficiency is definitely the best, the only one where I managed to achieve BBS+. For me, even 2 is a fairly aggressive value, even when using RPL. Effectively shaves at a value of 1 with both blades. The BBS is reached both times. As for comfort-here this razor is somewhat inferior, although I was surprised to see that it is quite comfortable with both blades. Razor shares 1 place.
Gibbs 15 . Likes sharp blades. According to the results, Feather is one of the few razors where the blade «touch a feather" the skin and is not felt. At the same time, BBS. Unfortunately, when using RPL, the indicators deteriorated. Comfort decreased, the irritation became more noticeable. As a result, it shares the first place with Rocnel
Apollo micron-very similar to Rocnel in terms of shaving efficiency, but slightly inferior to It. At the same time, the comfort is not better. As a result, it takes the 3rd place with a minimum margin.
Gibbs 17-a very interesting razor turned out to be. Shaves gently, so that the feeling of stroking, especially on 1-but it turned out BBS. Skin irritation is slightly greater than that of Gibbs 15, although razors are very similar and identical in effectiveness. Also likes sharp blades. As a result, the 4th place.
Frank Shaving-this razor was selected as one of the best representatives of Chinese regulated razors. According to the manufacturer, it is made of copper, has a fairly large weight and is comfortable in the hand. Feature-the razor does not have an average plate and during shaving, adjustment is only possible in the downward direction. To increase aggressiveness, you need to fully open the razor, set the desired value, and then close it.
According to the results, it is clear that none of the blades fully fit this razor could not and the potential of the razor I did not fully disclose. However, the first time-DFS, the second-BBS - and not so pronounced skin irritation. Oddly enough, 2 after Rocnel among the razors currently being produced. I will definitely try with Astra or polsilver-these blades are more suitable for razors. As a result, the 5th place.
Gillette Toggle-this razor is in a certain way an icon and a collector's rarity, which is set as an example for the quality of shaving. A new razor made of steel is being prepared on its basis. I was expecting something "super-quality" and so I was somewhat disappointed. This razor completely repeats all the characteristics of FrankShaving. The only difference is that Gillette's aggression control is strictly step-by-step, while Frank's is stepless. I would prefer the latter. As a result, the 5th place.
Gillette Fatboy-took like a razor, on which there are many articles and quality ratings in English-language forums. The razor seemed to me a complete clone Of both then and Frank. The only feature is a slightly different handle, which was more comfortable for me. But it did not affect the quality of shaving. As a result, the 5th place.
Taiga is a surprisingly heavy shave, with many small cuts. Oddly enough, the razor is quite aggressive and uncomfortable. Under this on 2 not shaves even Feather, but RPL-on 2 shaves perhaps, but obtain BBS me not managed. It should be noted that I did not seek to achieve BBS by any means if I felt that skin irritation had already occurred. As a result, 6-7 place. I may not have been able to "pick up the keys" to this razor, but my results are an indicator that it is not easy to do this.
Mercur progress-
Softer than Apollo and more aggressive than Parker. On 1 shave can be, but aggression is not enough. RPL-clearly not for this razor and my skin. The first time I got such an annoyance on this blade. On the one hand, the razor is interesting, on the other hand, it is difficult to reveal its potential. As a result-6-7 places. Although this razor is clearly softer than taiga.
Parker variant
The General impression is "bland" shaving. Does not bring joy. It seems that the razor is quite heavy, but most of the weight falls on the head. It is inconvenient to hold, although the handle is long and the weight is sufficient. I was extremely dissatisfied with both the efficiency and comfort. The result is a solid last place.
What is the result-
According to my impressions of the currently produced razors Rocnel gives the most complete shave, quite omnivorous to the blades, but requires getting used to.
Frank Shaving-turned out to be quite a good machine that allows you to quickly "adjust" to different blades and shave quite effectively.
Taiga-did not like it. Complex razor, capricious, requires "dancing with tambourines". The question-how much you want to do it remains. Domestic razor made of steel, adjustable-these are significant advantages. But constructive even for me, an Amateur, raises questions. A similar impression was left by Merkur-I don't know if I want to continue to "learn" this razor and select the values and blades?
As for Parker-definitely not my razor. You have to do a heavy selection in order to get DFS. The only one among the subjects where I had to get another razor for shaves. 1 does not shave, and 2,5-3-already aggression. In general, I never managed to shave comfortably.
As for the razors that were produced earlier, there are two approaches to shaving. Apollo-quite aggressive, very effectively shaves, as well as Rocnel requires some getting used to. Slightly different angle when using a razor.
Gibbs-at the heart of this razor is the comfort of shaving. Likes sharp blades, but is quite effective. Great for daily shaving.


Explanations to the table:
The first number is total score In parentheses first-a clean shave, the second is a reaction to the alunite, and the third reaction to the lotion.

Places:
1-2 place-Rocnel ajustable 2020 and Gibbs 15
3rd place-Apollo micron
4th place-Gibbs 17
5th place-Frank Shaving, Gillette Toggle and Fatboy
6th place-Taiga
7th place-Merkur progress
8th place-Parker variant

The weight of the razors
Gibbs 15 - 72
Gibbs 17 - 76
Gillette Fatboy-80
Gillette Toggle-89
Merkur progress - 91
Apollo micron - 93
Taiga - 107
Frank Shaving - 111
Parker variant - 117
Rocnel ajustable - 175
Special thanks to Alexander, thanks to whom I was able to taste the Taiga.

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 09-04-2020, 06:36 AM
#2
  • vvval
  • Member
  • Russia, Moscow
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 09-04-2020, 08:34 AM
#3
  • chazt
  • Senior Member
  • Queens, NY
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Well done, vvval. Thank you for your time, effort and observations. Greatly appreciated!

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 09-04-2020, 12:11 PM
#4
  • bijou
  • Senior Member
  • Chicago Illinois
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what is RPL?

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 09-07-2020, 01:40 AM
#5
  • Mouser
  • Senior Member
  • Forest City, Florida U.S.A.
User Info
Always appreciate this kind of effort and information as in Mr. Carrington's most helpful blade study posted some years ago. By the way, does anyone know where and how he is?
I did a similar comparison myself years ago. It was of vintage vs. modern razors,  not specifically adjustables and it took into account costs. I never considered making it publicly available because I thought most people wouldn't agree with my conclusions.  At the time I was enthralled with modern designs but found that vintage gave me results that couldn't be improved upon and that the only modern razors that were comparable in results were significantly more expensive.  Significantly. 
I found, for me, once you've reached perfect results,  more engineering wasn't,  couldn't achieve more.

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