11-08-2020, 01:00 PM
#1
  • DanLaw
  • Just an old slow fat man
  • Peachtree City, GA
User Info
Haircut & Shave has recently released their highly regarded P076 (positive blade exposure with 0,76mm gap) in the much anticipated copper version and it is spectacular – but before embarking on the review, it is important that readers are familiarized with the owner and company philosophy.  Aji Sunjaya is the owner and driving force behind H&S, bringing a philosophy emphasizing comfortable shaving attributes with efficiency far beyond what would normally be associated with those levels of comfort.  Prior to entering the shaving hardware business, Aji had been in the men’s grooming business for 19 years and has owned/operated a couple barbershops in Eastern Maryland for the past decade.  Although very successful in his core business, he has decided to use his experience and resources to bring readily available, extremely high quality razors canvassing a wide range of metals and pricing to the shaving market.  In the 2 years since releasing the N075Al DE razor (in my estimation the finest shaving mild razor available at any price) he has gone on to release the P076 17-4 and P076 Ti both of which I wholeheartedly believe are the absolute best built razors ever made in their respective metals.

I have reviewed the H&S N075 SS, SS Black T & Al and P076 17-4 and Ti concluding they all stellar with exhaustingly detailed metrics regarding the geometries and dimensions.  As all P076 dimensions are identical with the sole difference residing in the underlying metal (making a bigger difference in the shave experience than one could imagine), this review will focus on the metal, manufacturing quality and shave characteristics.  For those unfamiliar with the P076 17-4 passaround review replete with full dimensional analysis, it can be accessed thru http://shavenook.com/showthread.php?tid=60455 - there one will find all the dimensional details in photographic form.

The H&S experience begins the moment the package opened; the razors come professionally presented in the tool & die and military contractor’s favourite, a blow molded plastic case.  It is fitting that an artisan handcrafted razor manufacturer would utilize such a container given their familiarity with measuring instruments also protected in cases constructed of this material or wood.  Upon opening, the buyer is bedazzled by the beautiful contrast of the most highly and perfectly polished razors in the industry, this one a gorgeous contrast of copper set in the all black case.  To say it breathtaking is really understating the experience.  Even having opened the case at least a dozen times over the past week for shaves and photos, it never was less than visual rapture each time; the sheer presence of the razor is astonishing.

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Once over the alluring visual impact of the razor, one immediately notices the texture of the handle as it is removed from the case.  For whatever reason the knurling is much more apparent in copper – this comes to be appreciated when using the super slick ETHOS soaps included with the passaround.  The second thing one notices almost simultaneously with the knurling is the heft at 114g.  The heft is substantial and, from the perspective of this reviewer, very welcome.  While appreciating Ti razors, especially the H&S, given my druthers, would strongly prefer heft in razors.  For whatever reason, find weightiness facilitates allowing the razor to work by discouraging adding pressure to compensate for the perceived lightness (while stipulating that reasonable parties can disagree as Ti remains quite popular).  To mitigate against heft crossing the threshold from ally to foe, Aji has specified the standard handle length at 90mm in deference to copper’s inherent weight.  Initially was concerned with such a short handle as tend to favour 100+mm irrespective of weight but have to admit, as with his other razors, Aji has nailed all the fine elements, including handle length.  Irrespective of his sound rationale, Aji is offering a variety of handle lengths to accommodate individual tastes, longer and shorter, specifically 85mm and 95mm.

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H&S is regarded for the best fit and finish in the business, easily the equal of the established industry standard and many would argue, me included, better.  While all the P series of razors have been characterized as polished to perfection, the P076 Copper is on another level.  No matter the angle viewed, the nook or edifice, this razor is executed and polished to within a nanometer of its life to a level of perfection have hitherto not seen in a DE razor – having owned and/or used pretty much every brand and model of renown.  It is almost impossible to stop marveling at the physical beauty of this razor but shaving does beckon and life is short.  Nacet blades are included with the passaround having proven particularly compatible with this particular brand and a wide variety of shavers.  The loaded blade peeks out from under the cap, contrasting with the baseplate adding even more visual overload to the user experience...thank God it silver as a black blade might cause the universe to implode.

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In total, I used the H&S P076 Copper for 6 3-pass shaves: first pass With The Grain: second pass Against The Grain: and third pass Across The Grain.

We all have experienced gorgeous razors luring us in only to disappoint by delivering less than comfortable or efficient shaves: such is NOT the case here.  While all H&S P series razors have shaved well with differing face feel based on the metal and oriented to varying user preference, the Copper is the undisputed star of the line.  The face feel is even softer than the P076 Ti while maintaining the shaving efficiency of the P076 17-4.  3 pass shaves left my face BBS smooth for 36 hours yet I could easily undertake another 3 pass shave the moment stubble appeared.  To emphasize the skin friendly nature of this razor, undertook 4 shaves in sequence roughly 36 hours apart with ZERO irritation, weepers, cuts nor pain – that is remarkable for such an efficient razor on my extremely damaged and sensitive skin.  Hands down this is the best razor I have ever used and it will replace the Wolfman WR1 0,54 DC custom that has held the top position in my rotation for the past 3 years.

ETHOS has provided the soap for this passaround: Succes, Lavender and the new GreenFresh are all included for passaround participants’ use.  These are all incredible soaps, the best in the industry to my mind befitting such an exemplary razor.  Hitherto, Succes was my favourite soap but now have to reconsider that status as the GreenFresh is even better.  Specifically, my criteria for evaluating soap is cushion followed by postshave; all other criteria are secondary at best; others regard ease of lathering or primary and secondary slickness highly and a preponderance care strongly for scent.  Truth told, the ETHOS soaps hit all the various criteria squarely.  The clap test yields the best cushion ever experienced in a soap, croap or crème and the post shave is phenomenal – the most critical metrics for my extremely damaged and sensitive skin.  Slickness, be it primary or residual is top notch, lathering brainless in hard or soft water and the scents are perfumery quality.  Frank Lapani comes from a long career in the cosmetics industry as a product developer and it shows in the scents and packaging.  Every scent ETHOS has released is at least on par with the European boutique soaps in its quality, execution and tasteful elegance – in some cases matching the best of the classic scents last produced in the 80s (the Lavender is the best ever smelled since the classic Brit releases of the 80s, as fresh and true as a French field in full bloom).   The Succes rivals the best release codes of Creed Aventus (having owned a few) while the GreenFresh, once the tub airs, has a top note of lemongrass followed by base note of cucumber.  ETHOS is pretty much the only soap used these days because nothing else works as well, leaving even my neck a natural skin tone free from ruddiness; it is so good have spent a small fortune sending samples at my expense to forum members trying to spread the word.  The soaps are all soft, really croaps, that are ill suited to lathering in the jar.  PLEASE scoop and face or bowl lather to protect fellow users during these trying pandemic times.  Finally, participants are strongly encouraged to comment on the new jar used in the GreenFresh vis-à-vis the original jars used for Lavender and Succes.  A couple of things of note:

1, the new jars are noticeably larger than the original ETHOS soap containers (+7,1% gained through height)

2, the new jars are noticeably higher quality with more clarity and heft

3, the new jars are more robust in vulnerable areas being more resistant to breakage, particularly the wall and base thickness

Jar Wall Thickness:   Original Jar - 1,5mm   New Jar - 2,5mm
Jar Base Thickness:   Original Jar - 4,5mm   New Jar - 7,5mm
Jar Capacity:            Original Jar - 7,0oz     New Jar - 7,5oz

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Frank sourced the jars from the same vendor Martin de Candre uses in the hopes of eliminating cracking issues while pouring hot soaps and when mishandled by shippers.  Undoubtedly, these jars will virtually eliminate future issues.  Frank would love our participants’ feedback.

So what is to be stated?  Some have suggested my strong preference for H&S and ETHOS cannot be genuine: that is patently false – I have zero personal nor financial interest in their success.  It would be less than fair and honest for me to punish the achievement of these artisans to appease unfounded concerns of others.  The fact of the matter is, hands down, this is the best DE razor I have ever used – it may not be so for you but this razor will sit atop my rotation of elite razors as the reigning king until supplanted and even then will absolutely be retained for the foreseeable future.  This soap likewise will occupy the top rung of soaps until supplanted.  I try other elite soaps from a huge PIF being conducted to advise recipients regarding them when asked and beta test soap formulae for manufacturers so it is not as though unexposed to other soaps and latest developments.  While many prefer following trends and variety for variety’s sake, shaving is a pain producing, hated chore for me to undertake so it imperative to choose and retain the best hardware and software possible to mitigate the experience, akin to purchasing SnapOn, Fluke or Mitutoyo tools: in no way am I a hobbyist shaver nor blessed with abundant wealth.


In conclusion, the P076 Copper is the best razor ever used and H&S one of the two best premium brands regarding quality but without competition in offering premium razors produced in rare metals having availability – anybody wanting any H&S product can easily reach Aji and purchase the product.  H&S continues to develop, evolve and perfect new metals, filling voids in the premium razor market.  Reiterating my general perspective on H&S, while the P076 Copper at $600 is not inexpensive, there can be no doubt that one gets every penny worth of value out of that spend with this razor and then some in the quality of design, production and finish, its competitor would surely sell for more were it in production.  As with all reviews of H&S to date, strongly recommend Aji create a stand keeping with the design theme.

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Please PM to be included in the passaround.

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 11-13-2020, 12:13 PM
#2
  • DanLaw
  • Just an old slow fat man
  • Peachtree City, GA
User Info
Pre-shave:- ETHOS First Lather Unscented

Soap: ETHOS Lavender Supreme
Razor: H&S P076 Copper DC
Brush: Varlet Ranger
PostShave: ETHOS Remede Sensative Skin
AfterShave: ETHOS Skin Food Unscented

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 11-18-2020, 05:25 AM
#3
  • DanLaw
  • Just an old slow fat man
  • Peachtree City, GA
User Info
Pre-shave:- ETHOS First Lather Unscented
Soap: ETHOS Melange d'Agrumes
Razor: H&S P076 Copper DC
Brush: Declaractiob Grooming Washington Blood of Kings B3
PostShave: ETHOS Remede Sensative Skin
AfterShave: ETHOS Skin Food Unscented

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 11-24-2020, 01:05 PM
#4
  • DanLaw
  • Just an old slow fat man
  • Peachtree City, GA
User Info
Pre-shave:- ETHOS First Lather Unscented
Soap: ETHOS Clean
Razor: H&S P076 Copper DC
Brush: Mozingo Custom ZT2
PostShave: ETHOS Remede Sensative Skin
AfterShave: ETHOS Skin Food Unscented

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 11-30-2020, 11:26 AM
#5
User Info
I finally had a chance to try the H&S Copper P076.  Dan loved this razor, raving how it provided the best shave he had ever experienced from a DE and how beautiful it was.  His review had me quite excited about the prospects as we have similar preferences when it comes to leaning to the milder side of the spectrum although for different reasons.  Dan requires a milder razor because his skin is damaged and sensitive; my preference is based on having fairer skin and finer beard growth; despite the completely opposite skin and beard characteristics, several of my most beloved razors were purchased from his collection.   

H&S is one of my favorite razor companies; their attention to detail and design fits well with my cultural predisposition when it comes to craftsmanship and artistic execution (I am acquiring one of their N075Al razors as a travel and vacation home shaver).  The prospect of those principles being presented in a polished copper version raised my anticipation to a fever pitch.

My experience with the H&S P076 razors has been that they are masterfully manufactured and polished but that generally they are just too efficient for my beard and skin type.  Dan emphasized that the copper material used made the razor quite heavy and that the copper inherently softened the skin feel to the point that the razor would be a close match to the vintage Wolfman WR1 0.61 DC that is my primary shaver.  It is important to convey to the public reading these reviews that my beard growth is light and that I have a moustache and goatee, which changes my shaving demands and challenges.  Razors are personal grooming tools that need to fit the unique particular task at hand in a way that provides both efficiency and comfort for the individual: my needs may differ greatly from yours.

The new passaround policy for H&S razors is to include the plastic case that may raise shipping costs for those participating but makes a strong impression and protects the razor.  It really was nice to have this razor encased, which eliminated damage worries when receiving, and shipping, both major headaches.  In my world, every razor maker would use cases on razors costing over $100 as standard practice even if they had to raise the price to cover the cost.  True to past reviews, I was floored with the presentation even before opening.  As with every H&S tried to date, the razor itself was perfect and beautiful, every bit the quality of the best Wolfman in my opinion.  While I have commented on the outstanding finish of every H&S tried, the depth of the shine and reflection in copper was simply amazing!   Even knowing the weight of copper and reading Dan’s review, I was surprised at how heavy the razor was.  It isn’t a negative but just surprising how a razor with a shorter handle can feel so much heavier than any other material using longer handles.  But my God, it shines like the box from the movie Pulp Fiction – what a beautiful razor. 

Shaving with the P076 Copper was a unique experience, even more than the Ti.  The weight dominates the experience so that I understand why Aji fits the razor with a much shorter handle as standard compared to his other razors.  I am not suggesting the weight is a negative; given a choice, I would opt for the standard length handle.  All my preferred razors tend to be heavier, with more presence that I rely upon to apply the correct pressure during shaving.  There is absolutely no need to apply any pressure at all when using copper.  The shave was about the equal of the Ti, much better than the 17-4, for my skin and beard type.  I received BBS shaves but just too efficiently no matter what blades I used from Timor to Astra to PolSilver to Nacet, the shaves were perfectly BBS but the post shave was too harsh for my skin and beard type.  The feel of copper against the skin is nice but I did not perceive the therapeutic benefits Dan experienced, probably because my skin isn’t damaged or sensitive.  My opinion is that this is another great razor for those more experienced shavers with tougher skin and more coarse beards.  The shaves were outstanding judged by the metric of BBS closeness.  Feedback is very positive in both sound and feel for those preferring that characteristic.

Ethos Soap came with the razors; although I am a Grooming Dept user preferring the original Mallard to any soap ever used, have found Ethos to be its equal.  The jars are the most beautiful plastic I have experienced with beautiful caps.  Ethos soaps are artfully packaged with a degree of subtle tastefulness reminiscent of premium Italian products.  Of the 3 soaps provided, the GreenFresh stood out as the most appealing scent but where the soaps really excel is in the lather properties.  All 3 soaps are outstanding, minimally the equal of my favorite Mallard soap and probably better if post shave skin tone is important.  Very little soap is required to build enough lather for a full shave which is strange; I never used more than an almond sized scoop yet always had to rinse excess down the drain.  With 7.5oz to a jar, this soap should last years!  I made it a point to take a generous helping prior to passing the package on the next person and will be buying a jar soon.

In summary, the H&S Copper is an outstanding razor.  It is a solid choice for experienced shavers with normal skin and more coarse beards seeking a more aggressive shave.  For people like me with softer skin and lighter beards, the efficiency is just too much.  The fit and finish equal or exceed Wolfman in every way; these are outstanding razors with so many unique elements that many will want to purchase one just for those features.  Understanding the details of these razors makes the price point seem very fair.  It is interesting how H&S makes razors so similar looking yet unique that perform at such extremes for customers with different needs.  Thank you H&S and Ethos for supplying the great razor and soaps.


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 12-05-2020, 11:04 AM
#6
  • DanLaw
  • Just an old slow fat man
  • Peachtree City, GA
User Info
Posted for a passaround participant unable to load on TSN

This is my 3rd H&S passaround.  Over the course of the past 2, I've had a chance to see how much Aji's design chops have grown since he began producing brush handles.  So I was greatly looking forward to the chance at a go with his new Cu razor.

This is the latest in the P076 line, a razor with (I believe) .01mm of positive blade exposure, this particular model with a dual comb, presented in stunning copper.  In a razor with a .76mm blade gap, .01mm doesn't sound like a lot of blade exposure, but it's enough to generate significant blade feel.  This is no bad thing, as it allows for very precise microadjustments of angle to handle areas of the face which may require a subtly differentiated approach.  Slight positive exposure aids this mostly automatic (for anyone with more than a couple years of DE shaving experience) process, in my case enabling a BBS shave within 2 passes with a brief cleanup.

Aji's finishes really are a feature by this point.  I was blown away by both the Ti and 17-4 rounds, but the finish on the Cu somehow pops even more... obviously this is partly due to the beauty of the metal itself, but Aji has reached a level I've only really seen from Wolfman before, and may even exceed that bar.  The craftsmanship and artistry here are off the charts.

The OC side of this base plate is where the positive blade feel truly shines.  My first pass was OC and effortless, using just the weight of the razor to mow through 5 days of growth.  I finished with the DC, and if I had to liken this razor's performance to another razor, it would probably be the LASSCO BBS-1 or the Wolfman .67 SS.  One can get very close to this level with the RazoRock .84-P or BBS, but what you're buying with the H&S isn't just the perfect shave: you're buying fit, finish, first-rate materials and a design philosophy at the very top of the category.  Not a day goes by when I don't see some self-righteous wet shaver complaining that this or that razor is ridiculously overpriced because 'I get just as good a shave from my 'insert $18 razor here'.  These people have invariably never tried any of these razors, conveniently forgetting that there are differing price points for everything under the sun, and that people choose where to spend their money based on a wide variety of factors comprising all levels of both function AND form.  Something I'm pretty well known for saying is that presentation very much matters.  It matters less for some and more for others, but it does very much matter, and anyone with an appreciation for art will instantly recognize that level of aesthetic appeal here.


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 12-29-2020, 01:57 PM
#7
  • dmshaver
  • Default User Title
  • Kansas City
User Info
I've received the package & got my first shave with it today. A brief review, it's amazing! Smooth, efficient, & provided me with a spectacular two-pass shave. I'll be more detailed with future write-ups after I use it a few times. And the Ethos soap, it's the best soap available, anywhere, for any price, bar none.
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 12-29-2020, 01:58 PM
#8
  • dmshaver
  • Default User Title
  • Kansas City
User Info
After my shave tonight I want to give another update on the razor.

The look of the copper is very cool. Beautifully produced & made, the attention to detail in the making of it is quite impressive. Fit & finish is superb. The handle is a great fit for the razor & my hand. It balances the head & lets the razor glide over my face. Glide leads to the shave. Put the razor to your face & finding the correct angle is simple & natural. The blade feel is perfect, I know the blade is reducing my beard as it goes, & the small amount of audible feedback enhances the experience. This is the smoothest razor I have used. And it's as efficient as any I've used. I believe I've used all of the H&S razors: NO75 SS & Mixed Metal, PO76 SS, Ti, & Copper. All H&S razors are excellent, my personal preference is for the PO76 SB.

There is one question I can't figure out: Why don't I own a PO76 yet?

I have been a fan of Ethos soap for almost a year. Since discovering Ethos, I have used it for at least 90% of my shaves. It is the best soap I have ever used in terms of scent, latherability, cushion, slickness, residual slickness, & post-shave feel. Those of you in this pass-around that haven't tried Ethos yet, you're in for a treat! Those of you that haven't tried a PO76, you are also in for a treat!

Thank you Aji (H&S) & Frank (Ethos), you are two kind gentlemen that are true artisans. Thank you Dan for putting this pass around together, your kindness & time has allowed many to enjoy these quality products.
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 01-27-2021, 02:27 PM
#9
User Info
Apologies all, I meant to post this last week. 

As always, thanks to Dan and Aji for allowing the pass-around. It's really an incredible way to get to know a razor without having to talk myself into liking it because I've spent hundreds of dollars on it. (I know from first hand experience what this is like, **cough** my two Wolfman razors **cough**). 


I had a really sold 7 days with the copper P076. Of of the H&S razors, I have now tried the N075 mixed metal, the P076 Ti and then this razor. I can definitely say that this was the best mix of smoothness and efficiency of the three. Personally, I do not think that I could use this as an every day razor - but it's close. The distinct plus for me is that it didn't shave nearly as harshly as the Ti did. But on the other hand, it was noticeably more efficient than the mixed metal N075. 

One thing to note is that while I only used 4 different blades, Dan's axiom that these razors work best with Nacets held true. 

I started my shaves off with a Platinum that had a few shaves on it. That shave was flat out uncomfortable. But I set that aside and used a Nacet for the next 4 shaves and all were much more comfortable. 

My second shave (first with a Nacet) I gave the open comb side a try for the first two passes. While it glided well, it was too much blade for my liking as a daily shaver. 

Shaves 3 through 5 were all on the same Nacet. I wanted to use good soap so that there wasn't any concern that my results (positive or negative) could not be blamed on inferior glide. In a way, each of these shaves were unremarkable and I mean that in a good way. I did have to take an extra pass and some buffing on my biggest trouble spots which are along my jaw line and under my chin, but the good news was that the razor didn't punish me for doing so. 

Shave 6 I switched to a Polsilver. Not as bad as my shave with the platinum but still pretty rough. 

Finally, shave 7 I tried an Astra SP as that's my usual blade for new razors. It was a nice way to go out. Smooth shave that still lacked some of the efficiency that my swirling Mediterranean facial hair needs. 

The razor is a beauty though and the weight and balance is excellent. For me, the price tag is just too much to justify a purchase. But for those that have the money, I certainly wouldn't blame you. 

I mentioned the excellent soaps that I used earlier and included in those were 2 of the Ethos soaps in the pass-around box. It's a huge bonus that the box includes those. I've learned from my past experience how to get the most out of Ethos soaps and while I didn't care for the scent on the green soap, the lavender is a thing of beauty. Gorgeous bright bold lavender scent that somehow felt even more luxurious than the other Ethos soaps I've used. I'll add this as an aside, while not included in this box, my absolute favorite Ethos product is the splash. I used my bottle of agrumes for one of my other shaves this week and it's nearly as good as a balm. Incredible stuff. 

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