11-08-2020, 01:00 PM
#1
  • DanLaw
  • Just an old slow fat man
  • Peachtree City, GA
User Info
Haircut & Shave has recently released their highly regarded P076 (positive blade exposure with 0,76mm gap) in the much anticipated copper version and it is spectacular – but before embarking on the review, it is important that readers are familiarized with the owner and company philosophy.  Aji Sunjaya is the owner and driving force behind H&S, bringing a philosophy emphasizing comfortable shaving attributes with efficiency far beyond what would normally be associated with those levels of comfort.  Prior to entering the shaving hardware business, Aji had been in the men’s grooming business for 19 years and has owned/operated a couple barbershops in Eastern Maryland for the past decade.  Although very successful in his core business, he has decided to use his experience and resources to bring readily available, extremely high quality razors canvassing a wide range of metals and pricing to the shaving market.  In the 2 years since releasing the N075Al DE razor (in my estimation the finest shaving mild razor available at any price) he has gone on to release the P076 17-4 and P076 Ti both of which I wholeheartedly believe are the absolute best built razors ever made in their respective metals.

I have reviewed the H&S N075 SS, SS Black T & Al and P076 17-4 and Ti concluding they all stellar with exhaustingly detailed metrics regarding the geometries and dimensions.  As all P076 dimensions are identical with the sole difference residing in the underlying metal (making a bigger difference in the shave experience than one could imagine), this review will focus on the metal, manufacturing quality and shave characteristics.  For those unfamiliar with the P076 17-4 passaround review replete with full dimensional analysis, it can be accessed thru http://shavenook.com/showthread.php?tid=60455 - there one will find all the dimensional details in photographic form.

The H&S experience begins the moment the package opened; the razors come professionally presented in the tool & die and military contractor’s favourite, a blow molded plastic case.  It is fitting that an artisan handcrafted razor manufacturer would utilize such a container given their familiarity with measuring instruments also protected in cases constructed of this material or wood.  Upon opening, the buyer is bedazzled by the beautiful contrast of the most highly and perfectly polished razors in the industry, this one a gorgeous contrast of copper set in the all black case.  To say it breathtaking is really understating the experience.  Even having opened the case at least a dozen times over the past week for shaves and photos, it never was less than visual rapture each time; the sheer presence of the razor is astonishing.

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Once over the alluring visual impact of the razor, one immediately notices the texture of the handle as it is removed from the case.  For whatever reason the knurling is much more apparent in copper – this comes to be appreciated when using the super slick ETHOS soaps included with the passaround.  The second thing one notices almost simultaneously with the knurling is the heft at 114g.  The heft is substantial and, from the perspective of this reviewer, very welcome.  While appreciating Ti razors, especially the H&S, given my druthers, would strongly prefer heft in razors.  For whatever reason, find weightiness facilitates allowing the razor to work by discouraging adding pressure to compensate for the perceived lightness (while stipulating that reasonable parties can disagree as Ti remains quite popular).  To mitigate against heft crossing the threshold from ally to foe, Aji has specified the standard handle length at 90mm in deference to copper’s inherent weight.  Initially was concerned with such a short handle as tend to favour 100+mm irrespective of weight but have to admit, as with his other razors, Aji has nailed all the fine elements, including handle length.  Irrespective of his sound rationale, Aji is offering a variety of handle lengths to accommodate individual tastes, longer and shorter, specifically 85mm and 95mm.

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H&S is regarded for the best fit and finish in the business, easily the equal of the established industry standard and many would argue, me included, better.  While all the P series of razors have been characterized as polished to perfection, the P076 Copper is on another level.  No matter the angle viewed, the nook or edifice, this razor is executed and polished to within a nanometer of its life to a level of perfection have hitherto not seen in a DE razor – having owned and/or used pretty much every brand and model of renown.  It is almost impossible to stop marveling at the physical beauty of this razor but shaving does beckon and life is short.  Nacet blades are included with the passaround having proven particularly compatible with this particular brand and a wide variety of shavers.  The loaded blade peeks out from under the cap, contrasting with the baseplate adding even more visual overload to the user experience...thank God it silver as a black blade might cause the universe to implode.

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In total, I used the H&S P076 Copper for 6 3-pass shaves: first pass With The Grain: second pass Against The Grain: and third pass Across The Grain.

We all have experienced gorgeous razors luring us in only to disappoint by delivering less than comfortable or efficient shaves: such is NOT the case here.  While all H&S P series razors have shaved well with differing face feel based on the metal and oriented to varying user preference, the Copper is the undisputed star of the line.  The face feel is even softer than the P076 Ti while maintaining the shaving efficiency of the P076 17-4.  3 pass shaves left my face BBS smooth for 36 hours yet I could easily undertake another 3 pass shave the moment stubble appeared.  To emphasize the skin friendly nature of this razor, undertook 4 shaves in sequence roughly 36 hours apart with ZERO irritation, weepers, cuts nor pain – that is remarkable for such an efficient razor on my extremely damaged and sensitive skin.  Hands down this is the best razor I have ever used and it will replace the Wolfman WR1 0,54 DC custom that has held the top position in my rotation for the past 3 years.

ETHOS has provided the soap for this passaround: Succes, Lavender and the new GreenFresh are all included for passaround participants’ use.  These are all incredible soaps, the best in the industry to my mind befitting such an exemplary razor.  Hitherto, Succes was my favourite soap but now have to reconsider that status as the GreenFresh is even better.  Specifically, my criteria for evaluating soap is cushion followed by postshave; all other criteria are secondary at best; others regard ease of lathering or primary and secondary slickness highly and a preponderance care strongly for scent.  Truth told, the ETHOS soaps hit all the various criteria squarely.  The clap test yields the best cushion ever experienced in a soap, croap or crème and the post shave is phenomenal – the most critical metrics for my extremely damaged and sensitive skin.  Slickness, be it primary or residual is top notch, lathering brainless in hard or soft water and the scents are perfumery quality.  Frank Lapani comes from a long career in the cosmetics industry as a product developer and it shows in the scents and packaging.  Every scent ETHOS has released is at least on par with the European boutique soaps in its quality, execution and tasteful elegance – in some cases matching the best of the classic scents last produced in the 80s (the Lavender is the best ever smelled since the classic Brit releases of the 80s, as fresh and true as a French field in full bloom).   The Succes rivals the best release codes of Creed Aventus (having owned a few) while the GreenFresh, once the tub airs, has a top note of lemongrass followed by base note of cucumber.  ETHOS is pretty much the only soap used these days because nothing else works as well, leaving even my neck a natural skin tone free from ruddiness; it is so good have spent a small fortune sending samples at my expense to forum members trying to spread the word.  The soaps are all soft, really croaps, that are ill suited to lathering in the jar.  PLEASE scoop and face or bowl lather to protect fellow users during these trying pandemic times.  Finally, participants are strongly encouraged to comment on the new jar used in the GreenFresh vis-à-vis the original jars used for Lavender and Succes.  A couple of things of note:

1, the new jars are noticeably larger than the original ETHOS soap containers (+7,1% gained through height)

2, the new jars are noticeably higher quality with more clarity and heft

3, the new jars are more robust in vulnerable areas being more resistant to breakage, particularly the wall and base thickness

Jar Wall Thickness:   Original Jar - 1,5mm   New Jar - 2,5mm
Jar Base Thickness:   Original Jar - 4,5mm   New Jar - 7,5mm
Jar Capacity:            Original Jar - 7,0oz     New Jar - 7,5oz

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Frank sourced the jars from the same vendor Martin de Candre uses in the hopes of eliminating cracking issues while pouring hot soaps and when mishandled by shippers.  Undoubtedly, these jars will virtually eliminate future issues.  Frank would love our participants’ feedback.

So what is to be stated?  Some have suggested my strong preference for H&S and ETHOS cannot be genuine: that is patently false – I have zero personal nor financial interest in their success.  It would be less than fair and honest for me to punish the achievement of these artisans to appease unfounded concerns of others.  The fact of the matter is, hands down, this is the best DE razor I have ever used – it may not be so for you but this razor will sit atop my rotation of elite razors as the reigning king until supplanted and even then will absolutely be retained for the foreseeable future.  This soap likewise will occupy the top rung of soaps until supplanted.  I try other elite soaps from a huge PIF being conducted to advise recipients regarding them when asked and beta test soap formulae for manufacturers so it is not as though unexposed to other soaps and latest developments.  While many prefer following trends and variety for variety’s sake, shaving is a pain producing, hated chore for me to undertake so it imperative to choose and retain the best hardware and software possible to mitigate the experience, akin to purchasing SnapOn, Fluke or Mitutoyo tools: in no way am I a hobbyist shaver nor blessed with abundant wealth.


In conclusion, the P076 Copper is the best razor ever used and H&S one of the two best premium brands regarding quality but without competition in offering premium razors produced in rare metals having availability – anybody wanting any H&S product can easily reach Aji and purchase the product.  H&S continues to develop, evolve and perfect new metals, filling voids in the premium razor market.  Reiterating my general perspective on H&S, while the P076 Copper at $600 is not inexpensive, there can be no doubt that one gets every penny worth of value out of that spend with this razor and then some in the quality of design, production and finish, its competitor would surely sell for more were it in production.  As with all reviews of H&S to date, strongly recommend Aji create a stand keeping with the design theme.

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Please PM to be included in the passaround.

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 11-13-2020, 12:13 PM
#2
  • DanLaw
  • Just an old slow fat man
  • Peachtree City, GA
User Info
Pre-shave:- ETHOS First Lather Unscented

Soap: ETHOS Lavender Supreme
Razor: H&S P076 Copper DC
Brush: Varlet Ranger
PostShave: ETHOS Remede Sensative Skin
AfterShave: ETHOS Skin Food Unscented

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 11-18-2020, 05:25 AM
#3
  • DanLaw
  • Just an old slow fat man
  • Peachtree City, GA
User Info
Pre-shave:- ETHOS First Lather Unscented
Soap: ETHOS Melange d'Agrumes
Razor: H&S P076 Copper DC
Brush: Declaractiob Grooming Washington Blood of Kings B3
PostShave: ETHOS Remede Sensative Skin
AfterShave: ETHOS Skin Food Unscented

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 Yesterday, 01:05 PM
#4
  • DanLaw
  • Just an old slow fat man
  • Peachtree City, GA
User Info
Pre-shave:- ETHOS First Lather Unscented
Soap: ETHOS Clean
Razor: H&S P076 Copper DC
Brush: Mozingo Custom ZT2
PostShave: ETHOS Remede Sensative Skin
AfterShave: ETHOS Skin Food Unscented

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