10-20-2021, 08:09 AM
This post is intended to serve as a comparative perspective of various Declaration Grooming knots; this is not a comparison of knots across various vendors nor is it intended to infer any superiourity/inferiourity to other artisans. There are many on this fora possessing clearly superior knowledge and experience in regards to brushes, so will readily stipulate that my brush expertise is severely wanting when compared to some acknowledged experts. Irrespective, that is not to suggest a complete lack of brush experience and knowledge, having owned at least a hundred brushes of high repute over the years including: Brad Sears, Declaration Grooming, Elite, Firmin, Kent, Mozingo, Morris & Fordran, Paladin, Rooney, Simpson, Varlet, Voigt & Cop, Wiborg, Wolf Whiskers&c many of which are now in other owners’ hands. As is suggested in coaching circles, sometimes there is strength in having less than complete confidence in one’s expertise by being aware that there are gaps and acknowledging those holes.
Concerns have been raised following the B10 and B12 knot releases; enough so that projects have been halted while information and options weighed. Recently had the honour and privilege to test a B13 knot to determine its qualities relative to the B2-B13 releases of DG knots used and/or owned over the years. There is nothing quantitative in this review; it is based entirely on the qualitative perspective of one person, admittedly biased in favour of this artisan’s knots. It has helped my decision making, perhaps it will aid yours.
Thanks to the generosity of others, was able to assemble the following:
• Jefferson Blood of Kings in B13
• Jefferson SSB in B11
• Jefferson Fae in B9B
• Jefferson Chance of Showers in B8
• Jefferson ABH in B7
• Jefferson Ti C&R in B6
• Jefferson Custom Cape Buffalo in B5
• Jefferson Sol in B4
• Washington Sandstone in B3
It is unfortunate that an original B3 pour in the Jefferson handle could not be located to make the comparison as consistent as possible BUT this is not a review of the merits of one handle shape over another, nor is this a review of the merits of 26mm v 28mm knot size. Rather this is an assessment of the immanent qualities of badger hair batches in each Declaration Grooming release summarized in a comparison of the knot hair characteristics from releases B2-B11 in comparison to B13.
B13 Initially Reviewed In a Vacuum:
Thanks to the generosity of a forum member was able to secure a B13 Jefferson knot. The initial perspective viewing it is typically Declaration Grooming in that the hair is ever so slightly rifled for whatever reason, beautifully fan shaped and, given an opportunity, loves to bloom. Lathering revealed this knot as yet not fully broken in but irrespective, it able to create abundant lather easily using a variety of soaps including: ETHOS, Wholly Kaw, Grooming Dept, MdC, B&M and JabonMan. The knot really blooms during bowl lathering which is typical of Declaration Grooming, requiring intermittently squeezing out the lather throughout the process to facilitate getting the best results. As I prefer a smaller brush, despite owning huge brushes almost exclusively – WTF is that?, applying the brush to the face requires discipline, otherwise a mess ensues. IF using just the tips of the brush, the knot presents cloud soft with good backbone and lather releases perfectly - which is always quite amazing for such a huge and dense knot – there is zero feeling of gelling nor is there any scritch when used PROPERLY. Followup latherings present just as perfectly as the initial which is always a sign of well sourced hair and tied knot as freshly exposed skin is particularly sensitive. Unfortunately, not everybody uses a brush properly, some apply excess pressure thereby splaying the knot. Applying excess pressure, even light to moderate pressure – hardly splaying the knot- results in an ever so subtle feeling of scritch. The scritch is odd compared to most other vendors knots which exhibit it on the tips, and is unique to Declaration Grooming in my experience buried mid hair shaft. The lack of gelling and furtive scritch characteristics immediately eliminated the more gelling DG knots from comparison to my perspective but still undertook a series of side by side 3 pass shaves with all the brushes and knots listed for posterity’s sake.
Super High Level Reviews on Declaration Grooming B2- B11 Knots Relative to B13:
B2 (from memory) uh, no: B2 one of those knots that is reminiscent of classic Brit offerings, say the best Rooney, Simpson or M&F you ever tried. It quite soft, yet has great backbone – many compare it to B5/B6 but find those are real gel monsters by comparison. That stated, only ever got hold of one example so…. Really not a good comparison to my perspective.
B3 Ahhhhh, now we have something: This is without doubt the most controversial Declaration Grooming knot (outside the over treated B10 and B12 fiascos). If one loves classic untreated Brit Manchurian knots, then there is a RESEMBLANCE. B3s are renown for being scritchy across a spectrum BUT have yet to encounter one really bad nor, conversely, one great. Their scritch resides mid to deep layered in the knot and only really jumps out when excess pressure is applied. Under no circumstance would anybody rightly term the tips scritchy but they are neither soft. Initially thought the B13 was a reincarnation of B3 hair, perhaps treated BUT when used side by side that is a wholly unfair judgement. The B13 knot is much softer tipped and by comparison possesses hardly any of the B3 midshaft scritch – were the knots blood related, to use a scientific term, the scritch could be characterized as vestigial. Hold the perspective of the B3 until the conclusion as we shall elaborate further.
B4 If only it weren’t for the vestigial scritch when splayed: Were it not for the damn inkling of scritch, the B4 (as well as B7, B8 and B9a) would be right there and it would be trifling to characterize differences. Truth told, the other brushes have seen far more lathering over the years as well been properly treated (which would not endeavour on another person’s brush – irrespective of its simply being a cleaning protocol). In some respects, think of this grouping of brushes in terms of classic Brit brushes of nonManchurian hair just a step down from the pinnacle offering, say a great Simpson Super vs the premium SilverTip. No gel but still great brushes where every individual hair can be felt whilst lathering. Soft with great back bone and release too.
B5 (My favourite knot) uh, no: It not that B13 is bad but there are legendary knots and this just happens to be one. Although many prefer the B2 or B6, B5 is my absolute favourite Declaration Grooming knot in every regard.
B6 (damn near B5 in every dimension) uh, no: It not that B13 is bad but there are legendary knots and this just happens to be one.
B7 If only it weren’t for the vestigial scritch when splayed: Were it not for the damn inkling of scritch, the B7 (as well as B4, B8 and B9a) would be right there and it would be trifling to characterize differences. Truth told, the other brushes have seen far more lathering over the years as well been properly treated (which would not endeavour on another person’s brush – irrespective of its simply being a cleaning protocol). In some respects, think of this grouping of brushes in terms of classic Brit brushes of nonManchurian hair just a step down from the pinnacle offering, say a great Simpson Super vs the premium SilverTip. No gel but still great brushes where every individual hair can be felt whilst lathering. Soft with great back bone and release too. The B7 is my least favourite of this grouping of knots displaying similar characteristics but that is not an insult as they are all so similar.
B8 If only it weren’t for the vestigial scritch when splayed BUT we’re on to something here: Were it not for the damn inkling of scritch, the B8 (as well as B4, B7 and B9a) would be right there and it would be trifling to characterize differences. Truth told, the other brushes have seen far more lathering over the years as well been properly treated (which would not endeavour on another person’s brush – irrespective of its simply being a cleaning protocol). In some respects, think of this grouping of brushes in terms of classic Brit brushes of nonManchurian hair just a step down from the pinnacle offering, say a great Simpson Super vs the premium SilverTip. No gel but still great brushes where every individual hair can be felt whilst lathering. Soft with great back bone and release too. The B8 is my hands down favourite of this grouping of knots displaying similar characteristics and that is not feint praise.
B9a (from memory) If only it weren’t for the vestigial scritch when splayed: Were it not for the damn inkling of scritch, the B9a (as well as B4, B7 and B8) would be right there and it would be trifling to characterize differences. Truth told, the other brushes have seen far more lathering over the years as well been properly treated (which would not endeavour on another person’s brush – irrespective of its simply being a cleaning protocol). In some respects, think of this grouping of brushes in terms of classic Brit brushes of nonManchurian hair just a step down from the pinnacle offering, say a great Simpson Super vs the premium SilverTip. No gel but still great brushes where every individual hair can be felt whilst lathering. Soft with great back bone and release too.
B9a+ (from memory) uh, no: B9a+ is essentially a B9a treated to within an inch of its life to gel the tips. It is widely panned as being a mop but that is unfair. Oddly enough, its worst impression is when used in a vacuum BUT when used side by side with the legendary Declaration Grooming knots (B5, B6, B9B and B11), it actually comports quite well. Suggest the face feel of being one giant hair leads to such negative impressions which are unfair as it really rather good in every dimension save the face FEEL. This is a knot I expect to grow in reputation over time even if it never quite reaches elite Declaration Grooming knot status.
B9b (damn near B5 in every dimension) uh, no: It not that B13 is bad but there are legendary knots and this just happens to be one.
B10 (from memory) uh, no: This was just a terribly overtreated knot that lost a lot of backbone as well as exhibiting terrible face feel. Imagine having had a nightmare that the B9a+ was as bad as unfairly panned.
B11: (damn near B5 in every dimension) uh, no: It not that B13 is bad but there are legendary knots and this just happens to be one.
B12: have never tried one
B13 Summary Remarks:
My conclusion is that if a brush from the B8 family had engaged an illicit affair with the B3, say 3 generations prior and continued the B8 line otherwise uninterrupted, the B13 would be a modern descendant. The feel of the B8 and B13 are so similar when lathering properly, using the slightest pressure, as to be uncanny; it only when undue pressure applied that the slightest vestigial hint of mid hair shaft scritch presents. Whether the scritch could be mitigated with a thorough cleaning or will dissipate over time is unknown. Irrespective, and particularly as am not a splayer, find the B13 a quite good knot; middling amongst the Declaration Grooming releases but this an incredibly high standard compared to most artisans. I would group it with the B4, B7, B8 and B9a knots - albeit at the lower end – interpret that as complimentary - if the vestigial scritch dissipates, place it solidly behind the B8 at the top of the grouping. Would not hesitate to acquire one if seeking a high quality classic nongelling knot
Hopefully this has been helpful to those considering Declaration Grooming B13 knotted brushes. Masses feel free to address any questions and the experts, to hurl invective: for the former, shall endeavor to share my perspectives as they apply to your enquiries and for the latter, shall undoubtedly confirm your views of my ignorance.
Concerns have been raised following the B10 and B12 knot releases; enough so that projects have been halted while information and options weighed. Recently had the honour and privilege to test a B13 knot to determine its qualities relative to the B2-B13 releases of DG knots used and/or owned over the years. There is nothing quantitative in this review; it is based entirely on the qualitative perspective of one person, admittedly biased in favour of this artisan’s knots. It has helped my decision making, perhaps it will aid yours.
Thanks to the generosity of others, was able to assemble the following:
• Jefferson Blood of Kings in B13
• Jefferson SSB in B11
• Jefferson Fae in B9B
• Jefferson Chance of Showers in B8
• Jefferson ABH in B7
• Jefferson Ti C&R in B6
• Jefferson Custom Cape Buffalo in B5
• Jefferson Sol in B4
• Washington Sandstone in B3
It is unfortunate that an original B3 pour in the Jefferson handle could not be located to make the comparison as consistent as possible BUT this is not a review of the merits of one handle shape over another, nor is this a review of the merits of 26mm v 28mm knot size. Rather this is an assessment of the immanent qualities of badger hair batches in each Declaration Grooming release summarized in a comparison of the knot hair characteristics from releases B2-B11 in comparison to B13.
B13 Initially Reviewed In a Vacuum:
Thanks to the generosity of a forum member was able to secure a B13 Jefferson knot. The initial perspective viewing it is typically Declaration Grooming in that the hair is ever so slightly rifled for whatever reason, beautifully fan shaped and, given an opportunity, loves to bloom. Lathering revealed this knot as yet not fully broken in but irrespective, it able to create abundant lather easily using a variety of soaps including: ETHOS, Wholly Kaw, Grooming Dept, MdC, B&M and JabonMan. The knot really blooms during bowl lathering which is typical of Declaration Grooming, requiring intermittently squeezing out the lather throughout the process to facilitate getting the best results. As I prefer a smaller brush, despite owning huge brushes almost exclusively – WTF is that?, applying the brush to the face requires discipline, otherwise a mess ensues. IF using just the tips of the brush, the knot presents cloud soft with good backbone and lather releases perfectly - which is always quite amazing for such a huge and dense knot – there is zero feeling of gelling nor is there any scritch when used PROPERLY. Followup latherings present just as perfectly as the initial which is always a sign of well sourced hair and tied knot as freshly exposed skin is particularly sensitive. Unfortunately, not everybody uses a brush properly, some apply excess pressure thereby splaying the knot. Applying excess pressure, even light to moderate pressure – hardly splaying the knot- results in an ever so subtle feeling of scritch. The scritch is odd compared to most other vendors knots which exhibit it on the tips, and is unique to Declaration Grooming in my experience buried mid hair shaft. The lack of gelling and furtive scritch characteristics immediately eliminated the more gelling DG knots from comparison to my perspective but still undertook a series of side by side 3 pass shaves with all the brushes and knots listed for posterity’s sake.
Super High Level Reviews on Declaration Grooming B2- B11 Knots Relative to B13:
B2 (from memory) uh, no: B2 one of those knots that is reminiscent of classic Brit offerings, say the best Rooney, Simpson or M&F you ever tried. It quite soft, yet has great backbone – many compare it to B5/B6 but find those are real gel monsters by comparison. That stated, only ever got hold of one example so…. Really not a good comparison to my perspective.
B3 Ahhhhh, now we have something: This is without doubt the most controversial Declaration Grooming knot (outside the over treated B10 and B12 fiascos). If one loves classic untreated Brit Manchurian knots, then there is a RESEMBLANCE. B3s are renown for being scritchy across a spectrum BUT have yet to encounter one really bad nor, conversely, one great. Their scritch resides mid to deep layered in the knot and only really jumps out when excess pressure is applied. Under no circumstance would anybody rightly term the tips scritchy but they are neither soft. Initially thought the B13 was a reincarnation of B3 hair, perhaps treated BUT when used side by side that is a wholly unfair judgement. The B13 knot is much softer tipped and by comparison possesses hardly any of the B3 midshaft scritch – were the knots blood related, to use a scientific term, the scritch could be characterized as vestigial. Hold the perspective of the B3 until the conclusion as we shall elaborate further.
B4 If only it weren’t for the vestigial scritch when splayed: Were it not for the damn inkling of scritch, the B4 (as well as B7, B8 and B9a) would be right there and it would be trifling to characterize differences. Truth told, the other brushes have seen far more lathering over the years as well been properly treated (which would not endeavour on another person’s brush – irrespective of its simply being a cleaning protocol). In some respects, think of this grouping of brushes in terms of classic Brit brushes of nonManchurian hair just a step down from the pinnacle offering, say a great Simpson Super vs the premium SilverTip. No gel but still great brushes where every individual hair can be felt whilst lathering. Soft with great back bone and release too.
B5 (My favourite knot) uh, no: It not that B13 is bad but there are legendary knots and this just happens to be one. Although many prefer the B2 or B6, B5 is my absolute favourite Declaration Grooming knot in every regard.
B6 (damn near B5 in every dimension) uh, no: It not that B13 is bad but there are legendary knots and this just happens to be one.
B7 If only it weren’t for the vestigial scritch when splayed: Were it not for the damn inkling of scritch, the B7 (as well as B4, B8 and B9a) would be right there and it would be trifling to characterize differences. Truth told, the other brushes have seen far more lathering over the years as well been properly treated (which would not endeavour on another person’s brush – irrespective of its simply being a cleaning protocol). In some respects, think of this grouping of brushes in terms of classic Brit brushes of nonManchurian hair just a step down from the pinnacle offering, say a great Simpson Super vs the premium SilverTip. No gel but still great brushes where every individual hair can be felt whilst lathering. Soft with great back bone and release too. The B7 is my least favourite of this grouping of knots displaying similar characteristics but that is not an insult as they are all so similar.
B8 If only it weren’t for the vestigial scritch when splayed BUT we’re on to something here: Were it not for the damn inkling of scritch, the B8 (as well as B4, B7 and B9a) would be right there and it would be trifling to characterize differences. Truth told, the other brushes have seen far more lathering over the years as well been properly treated (which would not endeavour on another person’s brush – irrespective of its simply being a cleaning protocol). In some respects, think of this grouping of brushes in terms of classic Brit brushes of nonManchurian hair just a step down from the pinnacle offering, say a great Simpson Super vs the premium SilverTip. No gel but still great brushes where every individual hair can be felt whilst lathering. Soft with great back bone and release too. The B8 is my hands down favourite of this grouping of knots displaying similar characteristics and that is not feint praise.
B9a (from memory) If only it weren’t for the vestigial scritch when splayed: Were it not for the damn inkling of scritch, the B9a (as well as B4, B7 and B8) would be right there and it would be trifling to characterize differences. Truth told, the other brushes have seen far more lathering over the years as well been properly treated (which would not endeavour on another person’s brush – irrespective of its simply being a cleaning protocol). In some respects, think of this grouping of brushes in terms of classic Brit brushes of nonManchurian hair just a step down from the pinnacle offering, say a great Simpson Super vs the premium SilverTip. No gel but still great brushes where every individual hair can be felt whilst lathering. Soft with great back bone and release too.
B9a+ (from memory) uh, no: B9a+ is essentially a B9a treated to within an inch of its life to gel the tips. It is widely panned as being a mop but that is unfair. Oddly enough, its worst impression is when used in a vacuum BUT when used side by side with the legendary Declaration Grooming knots (B5, B6, B9B and B11), it actually comports quite well. Suggest the face feel of being one giant hair leads to such negative impressions which are unfair as it really rather good in every dimension save the face FEEL. This is a knot I expect to grow in reputation over time even if it never quite reaches elite Declaration Grooming knot status.
B9b (damn near B5 in every dimension) uh, no: It not that B13 is bad but there are legendary knots and this just happens to be one.
B10 (from memory) uh, no: This was just a terribly overtreated knot that lost a lot of backbone as well as exhibiting terrible face feel. Imagine having had a nightmare that the B9a+ was as bad as unfairly panned.
B11: (damn near B5 in every dimension) uh, no: It not that B13 is bad but there are legendary knots and this just happens to be one.
B12: have never tried one
B13 Summary Remarks:
My conclusion is that if a brush from the B8 family had engaged an illicit affair with the B3, say 3 generations prior and continued the B8 line otherwise uninterrupted, the B13 would be a modern descendant. The feel of the B8 and B13 are so similar when lathering properly, using the slightest pressure, as to be uncanny; it only when undue pressure applied that the slightest vestigial hint of mid hair shaft scritch presents. Whether the scritch could be mitigated with a thorough cleaning or will dissipate over time is unknown. Irrespective, and particularly as am not a splayer, find the B13 a quite good knot; middling amongst the Declaration Grooming releases but this an incredibly high standard compared to most artisans. I would group it with the B4, B7, B8 and B9a knots - albeit at the lower end – interpret that as complimentary - if the vestigial scritch dissipates, place it solidly behind the B8 at the top of the grouping. Would not hesitate to acquire one if seeking a high quality classic nongelling knot
Hopefully this has been helpful to those considering Declaration Grooming B13 knotted brushes. Masses feel free to address any questions and the experts, to hurl invective: for the former, shall endeavor to share my perspectives as they apply to your enquiries and for the latter, shall undoubtedly confirm your views of my ignorance.
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