Primo's Shave Journal...

In celebration of 8 years on this terrific forum, I have decided to start my personal shave journal. I will document my shaves, lather, blades, and fragrances. I will discuss my "pet-peeves", my loves, my shaves---my way.
I have a particular "font" and a particular "justification" for my journal, which I like to use. People who know me, know that I can be verbose, but I take that as a compliment. After 30 years on the operatic stage, I enjoy entertaining people. I hope that I can bring a little enjoyment and entertainment into your lives. Come along, if you wish. If not...that's ok too. And we're off.

Tuesday, February 8

Santa Maria Novella~~Simpson H4~~Feather AS-D2/Sharp Star~~Nasomatto Duro

SMN is a high-end, Italian shaving cream with a "croap" consistency. I prefer to take a scoop and bowl-lather.

This is a very sticky product and I make sure that I put a few drops of H2O on the cream, which I smeared into the bottom

of my Aesop bowl, so I won't put undo "tugging" on my brush's bristles.

Rapid back and forth motions with the brush, adding minimal H2O as needed, with 1 (one) "breach clearing".

(That's when I squeeze the lather out of the knot back into the bowl)

Yes, bowl-lathering takes some time, but when I shave, I don't look at the clock.

Results are evident:

This Harvard 4, BTW, was acquired by our friend Georg @German and the SiLVERTiP knot, according to him,

is unique (proper usage of the word). If there exists another H4 with this knot, please chime in with a picture.

Opened a fresh Sharp Star blade, of which I have ridiculously amassed 300+   

Love these blades. Not just because they are smooth and sharp, but because they are double-wrapped and aren't 

affected with pesky GLUE DOTS!!! (Pet-peeve #1)

Into the Feather AS-D2 (an unjustly maligned razor; detractors stating that it is too mild, I say: Horse hockey!)

Yes, the angle is challenging to find and maintain, but the fact is, there is a gap and you can find it and it WILL shave.

Three passes, including a very successful ATG pass on my notoriously sensitive lower neck.

That hair grows sideways from the center of my neck towards my ears!!

Side note: performing a TRUE ATG pass with my straight razors has yet to happen. 

I simply cannot contort my blade and grip to achieve it. 

However, with a DE, not an issue. 

Results: BBS.

My post shave routine has become habitual.

I "clean" off my face with a healthy splash of Thayer's Witch Hazel, followed by an unscented 

(or "lightly-scented) aftershave balm. Today's was Stirling unscented glacial. 

Great product, but needs extra rubbing to get it absorbed. Just a little drop suffices.

My scent of the day is from one of my favorite houses:

This is a wonderful, woody scent with a background of Dr. Pepper, giving way to an "Oudy" accord.

Perfect for cold weather. Strong projection for about 4-5 hours, with a medium sillage.

Longevity is about 8-10 hours on the skin. On the clothes, on which I NEVER spray, is days.

Primo's Shave Journal is a great addition to TSN.  I know a lot of guys will enjoy this.

PSJ all the way A top notch first entry. Following 

Very nice inaugural post for your journal Primo

(02-08-2022, 12:15 PM)zaclikestoshave Wrote: Very nice inaugural post for your journal Primo

I'd like to join you, but I don't want to turn your thread into an sotd thread lol.
I'll just post a pic I like for ya maybe? Here's the whole lot I bought this past summer. Hard to hide that one lol!

Very nice Joseph. I always enjoy your shave reports.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

(02-09-2022, 04:46 AM)clint64 Wrote: Very nice Joseph.  I always enjoy your shave reports.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, Clint!

Wednesday, February 9

AoS Oud~~Morris & Forndran Ali Baba 2~~Leresche #51/Sharp Star~~YSL M7 Oud Absolu

Sticking with a DE razor this Wednesday, I chose a French, open-comb Leresche #51.

This is a---dare I say "clone" of the Gillette Old Type. Seriously, almost identical.

But first, lather was a necessity. Art of Shaving Oud. No real oud needless to say, but a healthy dose of 

pencil shavings. A while back, I had the intention of only using triple-milled soaps; and while my den is

comprised mostly of said "hard pucks", I came to the realization, that there are some outstanding shave creams available.

AoS is just that. An OUTSTANDING product at a reasonable price. Oud's not their best scent, but it's good in cold weather.

I created today's lather with the last remaining M&F brush in my den, the Ali Baba 2.

LOOK at these gel tips:

I used to have a number of M&F brushes (terrific quality, I must add), but this is all I have left.

The one I really regret selling was a magnificent Victorian II...

NEVER should have let that one get away.

Oh well...

Gorgeous goo was the result of this bowl-lather.

Day 2 of the Sharp Star and it was still smooth 'n sharp.

The Leresche has significantly more "blade-feel" than yesterday's AS-D2.

Three uneventful passes, including a successful ATG on the lower neck left me with a true BBS shave.

Post-shave routine mimicked Tuesday's: Thayer's followed by Stirling ASB.

My scent o' the day:

In 2002, whilst Tom Ford was the main man at YSL, they came out with one of the first "oud" fragrances for the western market,

the original M7. This juice is now a unicorn and aside from being almost unattainable, is ridiculously expensive.

This juice is very similar and much more affordable.

I layered it with:

This juice is straight up Oud, nothing else. It works well with many fragrances to give them that extra "oomph".

Thursday, February 10

MWF~~Simpson "The Hive"~~Pre-War Gillette Tech (USA)/Sharp Star~~Vintage Paco Rabanne Pour Homme

Shaved with some real classics today, beginning with "The Fat".

I have posted many threads about this soap, from "how-to-lather" to "how to scent", so I won't repeat them.

Do a search and they are available, if interested.

Sorry to all the "luscious lather-lovers" out there, but today I face-lathered.

MWF is, IMO, unsurpassed in slickness and post-shave.

Sure, you can spend A LOT more, but you're not getting exponentially better soap.

Last day for the Sharp Star and the Gillette Tech held it securely, allowing the BLADE to cut the stubble.

Remember, friends, it's the BLADE that shaves you---NOT the razor.

Eschewed the XTG pass and settled for a two-pass shave with excellent results. DFS+++

Vintage stank juice completed the Thursday shave.

I have used PRPH since high school. It was a winner then and is a winner today.

SWMBOSOA

Those of you unfamiliar with this acronym:

She, Who Must Be Obeyed Seal of Approval.

This is a copyrighted acronym and any use---without written permission from my patent lawyer,

F. Charles McSnodgrass, is expressly prohibited.

So true, Primo. It’s the blade that shaves you. Still, different razors present the blade differently. Of my modest collection, there have been two razors that simply “present” the blade. I know you know what I mean. The design of the razor allows for pure technique. There’s no obfuscation. The Universe allows you in the space where it’s just blade and face. Other razors color the shave; more milderer or more ‘gressive. ‘gressiveness of course lies within the realm where efficiency and smoothness intertwine. Ask the Beav.

(02-10-2022, 02:40 PM)chazt Wrote: So true, Primo. It’s the blade that shaves you. Still, different razors present the blade differently. Of my modest collection, there have been two razors that simply “present” the blade. I know you know what I mean. The design of the razor allows for pure technique. There’s no obfuscation. The Universe allows you in the space where it’s just blade and face. Other razors color the shave; more milderer or more ‘gressive. ‘gressiveness of course lies within the realm where efficiency and smoothness intertwine. Ask the Beav.

Good points, my friend.
I continue to espouse my credo, because all-to-often we read posts stating "...this $500 razor shaves me better than anything", or...as I also said in one of my journal entries: "...this razor is too mild, it won't cut my beard!".
I am not trying to rock the boat, but if there's a gap, the blade will cut. 
Lastly, the "adjustable"...
We'll save that for a future entry. 

(02-10-2022, 03:31 PM)primotenore Wrote: I continue to espouse my credo, because all-to-often we read posts stating "...this $500 razor shaves me better than anything", or...as I also said in one of my journal entries: "...this razor is too mild, it won't cut my beard!".
I am not trying to rock the boat, but if there's a gap, the blade will cut. 
Lastly, the "adjustable"...
We'll save that for a future entry. 

There is much to be said for high end razors, including superb machining and polishing.  However, they shave well because of the design of the head and the blade, and not because they're expensive and beautiful.  A Merkur 34C with the right blade can be an excellent shaver.

(02-10-2022, 06:05 PM)TheLegalRazor Wrote:

(02-10-2022, 03:31 PM)primotenore Wrote: I continue to espouse my credo, because all-to-often we read posts stating "...this $500 razor shaves me better than anything", or...as I also said in one of my journal entries: "...this razor is too mild, it won't cut my beard!".
I am not trying to rock the boat, but if there's a gap, the blade will cut. 
Lastly, the "adjustable"...
We'll save that for a future entry. 

There is much to be said for high end razors, including superb machining and polishing.  However, they shave well because of the design of the head and the blade, and not because they're expensive and beautiful.  A Merkur 34C with the right blade can be an excellent shaver.

Agreed.

Friday, February 11

Ralph Lauren Safari~~dubl duck #4~~Barbasol Floating Head/Gillette Spoiler

Something spoke to me last evening and suggested I break out the vintage Safari.

I think it was @chazt  

The triple-milled soap is a very nice product, with a potent scent, but it lacks the slickness of say...vintage Williams.

When bowl-lathering such a hard soap, it's goes without saying that you must pick up plenty 

before going to the bowl. Some gents "bloom", some don't.

I never had that "aversion" to blooming, so I soused the soap a plenty and took the soaked dubl duck to the puck.

Good results:

Cracked open a new Spoiler and loaded into the somewhat aggressive Barbasol.

This statement would prove true on my ATG neck-pass. 

First and second passes were uneventful, but man-o-man, did my lower neck take a beating.

I am going to pay for this for a few days.

Cleaned up the carnage with my Thayer's and Stirling.

Completing this shave were 4 spritzes of the vintage Cosmair EdT.

When I first encountered Safari, my initial reaction was that it was a "clone" of the old

AoS/Valobra sandalwood, but upon further use, there are subtle differences.

The Safari is much more complex and the flowery notes set it apart.

It's a very masculine fragrance, but I use it anyway. 

Saturday, February 12

La Savonnière du Moulin~~Simpson T3~~Ralf Aust~~CFG Midnight Stag

Saturday straight shave with the Ralf Aust. 

Needed some extra slick lather, so what would be better than some Donkey Milk?

The soap-maker of Moulin is an interesting soap. Non-tallow, but not vegan, either. A hybrid, of sorts.

The scent is non-descript, soapy, inoffensive. More importantly is its protective properties.

My T3 whipped up some luxurious lather:

Stropped the Aust 40x on my Straight Razor Designs 3", followed by 40x on my 2" Slavin.

This combination is very effective, assuming the edge has been properly honed to begin with.

3 passes with one little weeper on the neck. Interestingly enough, my neck recovered nicely from yesterday's carnage

and the Aust didn't exacerbate anything. 

Business as usual with my post-shave routine.

No references on basenotes.net nor Fragrantica about the Midnight Stag, but let me say that this juice is da bomb.

Manliness extraordinaire. Grease monkey in a tuxedo.

Let's talk about today's brush.

I picked up this Grey Box T3 and when it arrived I was BLOWN AWAY.

Just look at the T3's and T4's offered on the Isle of Man website:

Fairly ho-hum, imo. Notice the knot size. On both the T3 and T4, the knots are a minuscule 22mm.

A T4, with a 22mm knot. 

Now look at this monster:

This knot has a diameter of almost 29mm. 

Not to mention, the stunning manner in which the knot was tied.

No comparison, if you ask me.

If you are heretofore unfamiliar with the glory days at Simpson, look to the Grey Box era brushes (and older).

They simply don't make them like this anymore. 

Sunday, February 13

Vintage Yardley~~Rubberset 400/3~~1947 Gillette Super-Speed/Spoiler~~Tom Ford Oud Wood

Good morning all.

Vintage, vintage, vintage. Yup, me like vintage shave gear.

Four "old-timers" came out to play this morning, starting with one of the grand-daddies of shave soap:

Yardley 

I have this, a sealed bowl and a most-revered triangular tub of the Black Label.

They should last me a loooooonnnnng time. 

The second vintage piece was single-handedly responsible for creating the gorgeous goo seen below:

That's right, none other than the Babe Ruth of Barbershop-style brushes, the Rubberset 400.

Full disclose: this is not the original knot, but rather an Omega something-or-other (63mm loft).

Once broken-in, the Omega is as soft as anything else in my den.

Third vintage player is the King of Super-Speeds, the no-date-code; none-notched 1947 Gillette.

Booyakasha 

Batting clean-up, is the most important player of them all, the Gillette Spoiler blade.

Stunning blade which I find every bit as good as the Person 74's and the Wilkinson Light Brigades.

Three passes and no issues = great shave.

Scent du jour is from the house of Tom Ford:

This glorious stank has, at least to my nose, very little to do with Oud and more to do with Rosewood.

It's a crowd-pleaser, but better yet, has received the coveted SWMBOSOA

Mic drop.

SOA, Primo?

If your T Ford smells like the inside of my rosewood guitars, you must smell outrageous!

(02-13-2022, 08:21 AM)chazt Wrote: SOA, Primo?

If your T Ford smells like the inside of my rosewood guitars, you must smell outrageous!

Ah, the smell of rosewood guitars. Oh, hell. The smell of any real wood guitars. We used to actually smell the new Martins when we got them in. I miss that.

(02-12-2022, 08:17 AM)primotenore Wrote:

Saturday, February 12

Now look at this monster:

This knot has a diameter of almost 29mm. 

Not to mention, the stunning manner in which the knot was tied.

No comparison, if you ask me.

If you are heretofore unfamiliar with the glory days at Simpson, look to the Grey Box era brushes (and older).

They simply don't make them like this anymore. 

"Monster" is the right word, Primo.  That is an amazing T3.

(02-13-2022, 05:22 PM)TheLegalRazor Wrote:

(02-12-2022, 08:17 AM)primotenore Wrote:

Saturday, February 12

Now look at this monster:

This knot has a diameter of almost 29mm. 

Not to mention, the stunning manner in which the knot was tied.

No comparison, if you ask me.

If you are heretofore unfamiliar with the glory days at Simpson, look to the Grey Box era brushes (and older).

They simply don't make them like this anymore. 

"Monster" is the right word, Primo.  That is an amazing T3.

I know, Ricardo. It's a freak!