06-06-2012, 09:18 PM
Im a Floris lover,I must admit.The Floris N 89 shaving soap have been one of the most regarded and liked in the past (as other good shaving soaps) and have lost that status for many since it was re formulated.
Thanks to Greekguy (Nick) I now have the chance to test one of the reformulated shaving soaps,but it seems that this soap have been reformulated again.
Some history here : this is an old Floris shaving soap ingredients list :
Potassium Sterate,Sodium Sterate,Potassiun Cocoate,Sodium Cocoate.... and no tallow anywhere,at least in this formulation.
In 2008 was reformulated with the following ingredients :
Sodium Palmate, Potasium Palmate, Aqua, Sodium Cocoate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Palm Kernalate, Glycerin, Parfum, Palm Kernel Fatty Acid, Sodium Chloride, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Terasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Coumarin.
Again,no tallow and some pucks where impossible to lather.The puck that I m testing now has this formulation.
And in 2011,Floris launched a new packaging as well as a new formulation for the N 89 shaving soap :
Potassium palmate, Sodium palmate, Potassium Palm kernelate, Sodium Palm kernelate, Glycerin, Aqua, Parfum, Palm Kernel fatty acid, Sodium chloride, Pentasodium pentetate, Tetrasodium etidronate, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Coumarin, Citral, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Benzyl Benzoate, CI 77891 (titanium dioxide).
A formulation based on Palm oils,like one of the Elite shaving soaps I have been able to test with very good results.
So I have a soap which has the second formulation on the list,which also have been reported hard to lather up or that its lather is not as good as the other Floris shaving soaps (Elite and JF).
For this test I have used a brand new Simpson Classic 1 best badger brush (what a nice little brush) and palm lathering,to check out better if the lather is slick and well moist or not.
So,the first thing that I do its to punish the soap loading the Simpson shaving brush for over 40 seconds.Remember,this is a triple milled shaving soap,which is made to last a lot,so dont be frugal and load your brush with every triple milled soap for over 30 seconds : you would avoid to go back to the pack to create more lather if you get short of it.
And start lathering on the palm of my hand.At first the lather looks really dense,but no volume and its really dry (it doesn't looks any promising) :
but my friends,this is not Alchemy,either Rocket Science,so only more water is required and some more time building lather on the palm of the hand to create this :
And this is the lather I got for my shave today,with excellent results.I find the lather very slick,as one of the Floris Elite Palm oil based formulation and also very skin protective.I truly enjoyed the shave,once gain,with a Floris shaving soap.
I tested again the soap,with the same results,and I left some lather on the brush to see how it dries out.This is the lather after 10 minutes of drying out :
and the same lather after 20 minutes :
So if the lather have been well hydrate,it wont go dry fast,but it will take its time.
The scent of this soap is much fresher than the N 89 EDT.I was expecting a strong scent,as the EDT has,but not,its more subtle,with its woody notes,giving it a nice fragrance for winter o cold days (today was kind of chilly here where I live).Maybe for summer its not the best one,but dont worry,its not as strong as the EDT.
Well,I do like this soap.Now I should compare it to the newest formulation,but Im sure Im gonna obtain the same result.Maybe the scent would be different,as is the 3 Floris Elite soaps that I have tested.If anybody has a new N89 shaving soap and is willing to send it to test it out,you know where to find me.
One of these days Im gonna put my feet in London and the Floris shop is gonna be the first stop after the airport....
06-07-2012, 08:26 PM
(06-07-2012, 06:55 PM)Petr Wrote: I used the earlier reformulations and they were real stinkers in performance.
What can you compare the new Floris lather to in efficacy? Does it protect as well as Canali for example or is it more like the new T&H?
My friend,Calani,for me,is top notch.No,this one is a little bit behind Calani is skin care protection.
The new Truefitt and Hill soap doesnt lather,but the one that I have its as good as this Floris shaving soap.I need to try out the new Floris N89 formulation and compare it with this old ones and the JF and Elite.
06-08-2012, 10:37 AM
(06-08-2012, 10:28 AM)Teiste Wrote:(06-08-2012, 10:13 AM)churchilllafemme Wrote: I have a vintage bowl of the No. 89 and it lathers beautifully and smells great.
John,is it the one with the formulation I posted on the thread or does it has another formulation?
I don't know, Teiste. It is missing its ingredients list; the wooden bowl is bare. I bought it from a shop in Idaho, where they said they thought it was at least 15 years old.
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